MikeMc

Art.....follow this link and if you can How about some info on it. I am a buddy of its current owner and it is under a bunch of parts, but I can get more info The manifold is marked Eddie Meyer..... LINK

Sometimes it's the kit itself...well made, good fitting guage decals. Most of the revell Ferrari kits had great decal sets, the more realistic have a good crisp decal and some well fitting clear covers. This pic is the latter...if you look close the speedo and clock both are covered. the small guages to the left side are only decals, but have 4 or 5 coats of future brushed on. The only other thing done was to use a flat black wash to bring out the engraved details like the radio buttons. This '56 is just the factory dash and decals, fine brush dabbed black on knobs and buttons...

http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=249 16 oz to 1 oz solvent proof...all types of different tops. I also use resin cups for mixing, not storage..they are graduated for repeat mixing.. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK360&P=M As I shoot lacquers these all work for me. Parma also sells solvent proof 2oz flip top bottles

Jeff if you put 1/2 your normal effort on this kit You will have a masterpiece!! I chose to go OOB on this one...I may get the delivery and go all out with wiring, plumbing, and more details

Yep its Capt Bondo Days!!!!!

Beautiful work...worth the price......I cannot afford $40. a set though

If your doing tubing, why not use copper wire.....you can age it or seal it..

What kind of paint are you using?? you can get a hi gloss without polishing,,,Donn Yosts DVD will show you how with Enamels I like lacquer and clear, wetsand and polish..looks like glass....

2 questions..... do they use a quick change style rear end?? How high of a price tag for all those goodies??

Any thing that is not stock.....wild paint massive blown motors...........and my Datsun 1200:P :P

I'M dizzy.....not sure if its the base or the world is spinnin!!!! Off the Wall

This is not ugly?????....its not french....

yes!!!!

Thanks Jon....that is how I've done it for years....not a crack and I love my TS13

Then switch to duplacolor...a bit hotter, but works great.

WE WE???????

Any good lacquer primer...duplacolor, HOK, Plasticote

Thanks. The transfers were a big worry. As a result I chose to make the rear spears from stock as the kits did not come with spears for the skirts. I also did the beltline trim this way. I have done the front and have had good luck...the trick is to wrap the metal around a 3/16 rod for the rear. I did tear one side so that will be BMF..but the rest look good . I will also need a dab of epoxy at the very ends to stop lifting This shot shows the lower metal trim under the doors...it looks fantastic!! Built with the stock suspension parts it will go low ...like that before picture

Easy...Upper right corner, look for your screen name, go to it and click "my profile" Then look to the left and go down 5...it says "change avatar" find your photo and follow directions...it will resize to 150 x 150 if image scale is "on"

Yes the setting is in your camera..go down one setting. IMHO..why would you want it smaller....I want them bigger as it shows the details

Seems you forgot one more Harry... one of the neatest 2 cylinder air cooled french cars...... Sent 06 September 2010 - 04:12 PM 54 Panhard Dyna V MIKE McELLIGOTT http://fr.academic.r.../frwiki/1287211

No prob at all...sounds like cookies or adware on your end.

I concur. Zoom Zoom taught about clearing with 3 coats using the paint window..about 15 min between all coats,base and clear. Or as Mark said wait about 1 month.

Thanks Jeff Good fair questions...The wheel looks a little lower than it really is due to the focal length, angle of the shot , and that the driver better be a little guy or gal Now the whys.... One: in order to build the car as low as Jairus drew it up major work was done early in the build to slam the suspension both front and rear, this was done and was crude which in the one to one world would result in a lousy quality ride....but looked good! Like many early lowriders were, then came the hydraulics, lift gates and 24v aircraft pumps....Now you could both slam the car and drive at a near stock hight....but with 3000 psi hydraulics you would pop a line oiling and dropping that corner and was drawn pre hydraulics Two: I did not want to cut the interior panels up as I channelled the frame in the rear and between the body mounts, interior tub mounts and the entire front clip trim job.Part of that included shortening the firewall.I chose for assembly and alignment issues to shorten the firewall on the sides to get the 1/16" I needed to get it all sitting as the art shows.So it does make it a bit close on this What I have said here and elsewhere this kit IS the best kit I have ever built.....The fit, assembly, and detail is second to none, outside many more current and pricey kits Subject.....not my normal build or even close...BUT by far more fun from this kit than any other I'v built If it is built close to the directions it will allow any one to sit in that plush old seat As I noted previously it had to be a real period taildragger!! Thanks for the questions:) this is "stock " wheel/tire combo this is final fit with wires this shows channel in floor pan filled in before finishing