bobss396

VERY cool, I like it a lot. I have do do one in a similar style. What are the wheels from?

I am on a pro-street bender myself, they are great kits to detail up. Well done.

Those cars were so ugly that they are actually beautiful now. Chrysler came out some gruesome stuff back in the day.

I saw this on IG last night, looks quite real. There was a '69 Mustang I saw for sale a while back, same rich color. I ran into a lady that also has a 2020 Mustang and hers was the same color, no custom order but I have yet to see another. Mine is Kona Blue, I have only seen 2 others in that color.

Sometimes simple is the way to go. It looks killer.

Nothing looks more like aluminum than... aluminum. On a couple of builds, instead of adding something raised like rivet heads, I crawled out to the garage and dialed off some small (.030" diameter) drill-points on my mill. It has to look very uniform to be a success. I tend to avoid CA glue on finished surfaces, but have to try it now I have seen your build.

Some sickos I heard collect model cars... wait... too close to home... Women get some odd fixations. Like those fake-flower buyers I get stuck behind in craft stores. Others to watch out for are Disney and clown collectors...

I saw one real '32 sedan and the owner used a Taurus station wagon roof on it. It had the right contour and ribs which added rigidity to it.

The red and black was always a good color combination on the '57.

The old AMT line of spray paints had a few that were not called metallics, they were called a "luster" finish. I would call them close to a pearl. Pearl paints are more subtle and may be what you are shooting for.

I did a stock car earlier this year, it was an old stalled build and I had to strip the old paint and decals off the body. I painted it with white lacquer, polished it to 8000 grit and went with toothpaste to polish it. SUPER smooth and I was proud. Onto the decals, I used some Polar Lights Leeroy Yarbrough decals... they all but slid right off the car. Got some JNJ decals, the same thing... back in the box it went. Maybe too smooth is not the way to go, will be watching this post.

A modeler's worst nightmare. I always make sure I have sufficient paint on the body, taking care to get the edges well covered. I start out with the body upside down to make sure the roll pans, etc have a good amount of paint on them. For me, lacquers are more forgiving than softer paints. Earlier in the year I had an issue when I was into the clear coat polishing stage and had to go back and carefully shoot the color coat in one area.

In the past I had used Spaz Stix chrome paint (found in a RC parts section of a hobby shop) and handling was an issue. I still have some and would like to try a clear over it, maybe a TS-13 or an acrylic clear like Krylon 1303. Lately I have been using Duplicolor chrome and I'm fairly happy with it.I did a set of '62 Ford bumpers that had horrid mold lines on them, right over primer. The last thing I did was some pro-street wheelie bars that I stripped the kit chrome from and cleaned them up. I had initially shot them with TS-14 black gloss over primer (Mr. Hobby) and the paint did not sit well. After an oven cleaner bath, back to square-one. This time, right over the primer and they came out well. I will look for the Revell chrome, I hope it becomes more available to us.

This is still nice to have. I need a stock car trailer tow vehicle and this may do the job. I used to see an old ambulance at the track now and then. I kick myself for letting a couple of Johan ambulance kits go some years ago.

Nice going, always good to come home with the loot. I had worked at a race car shop around 1978 and one customer had a 454 powered Vega pro-street that actually ran on the street. It came to us pretty much done, for some odd reason the owner kept the stock-ish Vega front end. We built the structure to stiffen up the front of the car, used a lot of 1" square and 1.5" round tubing. That took the flex out of it.

I opted out, had some dental surgery that went bad. I wasn't up to venturing that far. I will check the site however.

With lacquers, I will start at 1500, if that is not cutting it, I'll go to 1200 or 1000. With the Detail Master cloths, I cut new ones into 4 pieces and mark the grit on the back with a Sharpie. If one piece gets beat up, I toss it. Color sanding I always do wet, I add a drop of dish soap to the water, it lubricates and keeps the cloths cleaner. If you ever feel something dragging... STOP. You should look at the cloth or sandpaper for grit or other crud they pick up. I follow the same pattern across the body so I know where I had left off with the previous grits. I rarely go past 6000 grit, I use Meguiars or toothpaste to finish it off. At times, I may have to go back with a coarser cloth to get closer to an edge or crown line.

20 odd years back, I would scour the earth for cheap primers. Bondo brand, Bright Beauty was carried by Napa and worked with lacquers, their clear was quite good. Plastikote had a good basic gray one, Krylon was not so good. I would endure what I got out of the cans and sand away. The only Duplicolor primer I can find is the high-build. Which does not really cover fine details like I thought it would. The Mr. Hobby one I use is a high-build but the same story as Duplicolor. I have used a professional series by SEM and Transtar which are good ones. So far Mr. Hobby and Tamiya Fine Surface products lay down to a fine finish, I may have to wet-sand quickly with 2400 grit before going top coat.

I can see why you opened the doors, the panel lines on my kit are all but gone. I'm going flip-nose with mine and have already started on the chassis. I removed the entire trunk area and "boxed" the rear chassis rails. I'm using a VCG Resins 9" Ford rear and am dropping that onto the opposite side of the rear springs to drop the rear lower. I will likely construct an entire new firewall as the one on the tub will be ungainly to handle and make it look right.

My older one followed me to the bathroom every trip. She would yowl by the door if I closed it, so I would leave it open if nobody was home. The little cat would play in the sink while he waited for me to be done.

I still use DC primers on chassis priming and on other details. I will probably buy more down the road. Their DS104 black primer is still a good one.

I will look for it. I see that Tamiya does have some new paints out. I picked up a TS82 rubber black and a TS100 semi-gloss gray recently.

I used to take some flak at shows (around 2011) for having machined parts on my cars. I drew them up in CAD to get the bugs out and cranked them out on manual machines or CNC equipment at work. Nothing looks more like metal that metal. 3D printing is no different that the old resin slush-casting that thankfully has numbered days. My only gripe with 3D parts is that some should be better thought out. The material is quite brittle if you have to open up a hole in delicate parts.

My older cat that we lost last year was never more than 2 feet away from me when I was modeling. She slept curled up on the floor next to be, I had to be careful when doing any sanding or dropping things on her.

I ran across a decent one at Ace Hardware, Krylon non-yellowing Crystal Clear #1303. It goes on well, I have used it on stock cars over decals with no harm to them. Lighter coats are the way to go with this product.