bobss396

I see them on eBay, do not recall who the vendor was. They should be easy enough to find.

Magneto is in, plug wires and boots are done. I left the valve covers for last. The Predator carb sits up quite high. I'll have to drop the engine in tomorrow and see if I have to come up with plan B...

I have enough kits to keep a few of us going for a long time. I tend to buy at Hobby Lobby when they are 40% off or at shows. I wheel and deal with people in the club.

Predator carb is on (CARB_6), from Ron Coon Resins. Headers are from VCG Resins, pinned with 1/32" brass. These need to be painted and go on after the engine is installed, unless I find out otherwise.

I figure since I have lots in the works with the Mustang and Gremlin, why not start a '35 Chevy coach? The body is 3 pieces, lots of work to get it looking good. I trimmed the lower rear off the body. I ended up splitting the horse-shoe body insert apart. It was the only way to drop the body on low enough. I made up stops inside the body for the insert to locate on. I had to trim the rear of the interior tub to fit it to the 3D printed chassis. Most engine pieces are painted. I used a 3D radiator (RAD_5) from Ron Coon Resins. The hood is out of a pavement modified kit. I put a pilot-hole in it until I finalize the .656" hole location. Deflector and air cleaner are Ron Coon items.

Wheels and tires are painted. Tires lettering is next.

This is my system for squaring up stock. The vise I've had for years. Files are Nicholsen, a coarse and fine. Coarse for plastics, fine for metals. If I double-stick tape a "stop" to the rear jaw, I can repeat sizes to +/- .003 very easily.

Wheels are painted. I used a Model Master metallizer and an acrylic Vallejo Bronze for the centers. That thinned nicely with a few drops of water added to it

In the defense biz...this was known as vanishing-vendors. We would get a spares order on an older job and find out that some of our vendors were out of business. Or they were absorbed by another company. So we had to ferret that information out. I had compiled a database of who bought out who, or what sort of merger went on, and we didn't get the memo.

This was a big fear when molds, etc were first shipped to China. If something hairy went down politically between them and us, we would never see product or the molds ever again. This spiked a lot of kit hoarding... not like I know anyone like that.. 🙄

I still have some OG custom fender skirts and other parts from Ed Sr. He made very nice products.

I read up on Cardinals a while back. They are not flocking birds and have a certain range. I'm guessing a couple hundred yards perhaps. Another thing generally hard-wired into them.

I tend to rough cut everything and use a small vise with a file to get the perfect 90 degree end. I use a protractor and a scribed line for critical angles, rough cut, back into the vise. Line up the scribed mark and file away. A 22.5 angle is pretty handy in a miter box. In machine shops, we tried to use 15, 30, 45 degree increments where possible.

Cardinals are very territorial. This is why you usually see a pair and rarely an odd one mixed in. The exception is juveniles, which soon enough do fly the coop.

We had noticed years back when I was helping building tow trucks, that all cab lights were odd numbers, like 3 and 5. The last one we put 4 on it... nobody ever said anything... oh well.

I had been to his shop in Baiting Hollow once. His brother was a HS shop teacher and involved in the cars. He had a "new" Vega on the chassis table. The shop was big and had everything you could imagine. Charlie's full time gig was driving big rig gasoline trucks out of the Northville oil depot.

I think I have some thin-ish stainless steel somewhere... hmmmm. I would also do the 45* slots.

In my machine shop days, we made quick'n dirty punches from stainless steel rod. Depending on what was being punched, the edge would break down. Easy to touch up. Before long, it was evident that a thru hole was required to push parts out, via a long industrial q-tip stick. We punched things like solder pre-forms, thin soft metals.

So far i have only tried the Mr. Hobby primers. I can shoot and "lacquer" over them. Do they make other paints? I have to do some research.

I go there when my plumbing is backed up. Red Lobster when I need an express evacuation...

I got another Ron Coon Resins order, finally picked wheels and tires for the Mustang. He has nice wheel backs with good drum brakes detail.

We were there last week. Brace yourself... no CHILI on the menu. We will still go back.

I didn't take a picture, oh well. Last night was a Spanish dish, chicken fricassee. Easy to make and tasty. I used 4 drum sticks and 4 thighs. Washed and seasoned with garlic powder and Adobe. 1 medium size onion chopped, 2 small peppers (I used green, yellow and red) chopped, 6 cloves of garlic, pressed, about a 1/3 cup of diced fresh cilantro. About a 1/3rd of a jar of green olives, 1.5 tsp of capers. All of that goes into a zip lock bag with 2 packets of Goya Sazon seasoning and a bay leaf. Let it sit in the fridge for at least a few hours or overnight. I use an 8 quart pot, it will hold double of what I scribbled down here, start with some olive oil, heat that up. Then dump the whole bag into the pot with 1 8 ounce can of tomato sauce. Get it going, make sure it doesn't stick to the bottom, turn the heat to low, stir fairly often. It takes about 45 minutes, up to an hour if you have things like breasts and backs in the pot. I serve it over yellow rice.

Anything printed, I wash before doing anything with them. I have primed some and had a reaction like on old cast resin parts. Using a 2 part adhesive would be a real PITA in my opinion. Usually CA glue works well. I even had it where Tamiya solvent glue worked.

I keep an old food container by my kitchen sink with all my wet sanding stuff in it. DM cloths, #1500 to #8000, some sand papers, sanding sticks. Also a piece of old flannel and an old tube of toothpaste.