bobss396

Gotcha. My '68 probably came in at #2800. The newer ones are much safer and hold the road, providing the car is driven in a reasonably safe manner. My car is babied. I have 16k miles on it and took it over 90 once. I looked at some used 5.0 cars, 60k miles, 4 years old and MORE than the $29k I paid for it.

Hard to see perhaps, but this is how it laid down. No polishing.

Nah, it is a very good road car. Stable in any weather except snow.... Very safe too with airbags all over. I got it in 2021 with 434 miles on it. It came from Tennessee to NY where I found it at a dealer. It was likely a demo, loaded with a black leather interior.

A couple of Mr. Ivan hanging out. He stays up most of the day if I'm around to spoil him.

Poison ivy anyone? I'm cleaning out flower beds and came across this fine specimen. I haven't tackled it so far. I need serious PPE for this gem.

I shot some yesterday on a hood painted with Duplicolor. Heated the can first, the nozzle has a great fan pattern to it.

I think that some drivers are not used to RWD driving. The cars are light-ish in the rear, not as bad as the OG Mustangs. My 2020 Mustang weighs #4500 and has the Ecoboost turbo with the manual 6 speed. Only 310 or so HP, but I have to be careful in the rain with it. Tires are Nitto brand, 265/40-19 up front, 285/35-19 out back. Horsepower comes into the equation too. Some of us here had 400 + HP cars 40-50 years ago. We had to learn how to respect that.

Some 3D printed parts guys use an ABS material, I probably even have some made if it. If in doubt, try painting a sample area that is not visible in the finished form.

Aka... feline paralysis ...

I was going out the back door and I see a squirrel drinking water out of the top of my recycling bin where rain water collected. I noticed this was a momma squirrel who was nursing. I put out a bowl of clean water for her. She was on my deck rail close by and waited for me to bring the water out.

One of my ex lady friends had an XR7, dark blue with a white top and interior. It was a complete hooptie. It did have front disc brakes. I had a green '67 with a 289 in it. It got totaled out when it was parked.

I do airbrush now and then. I have a couple of names brand single-actions that work well. I have also a new brand X single action I have tried and it works well too. YMMV.

Is the engine 3D printed resin? I find that almost any 3D part I have to wash first before I even squirt primer on it. I've had issues with using Tamiya primer lately. It does funny stuff like you're seeing.

No picture but... I was at my girlfriend's place yesterday, the back yard alone is a 1/2 acre. She points out something in the yard, she was concerned it may be a dead cat. So I was volunteered to take a look. It was a very deceased possum, likely there after the lawn was cut on Wednesday. Green flies all over it. I then volunteered her daughter's husband to deal with it when he got off work, which he did.

The engine bay on those is real tight. IIRC the kit engines were a 394 Olds with a hydro transmission. I think an injected SBC might go well with no major slice 'n dice action. I have to dig mine out.

I had a wren like that who rang his bell pretty hard. I was in the driveway working on my Ford when I heard the THONK! So I pick up the bird and put it in a box in the garage with a shop rag for cushion. It took a little while, but I looked in on him/her and the bird perched on my dirty finger. It soon took off.

I did build the panel version as a kid. I knew about .5% of what I know now. Ignorance is bliss. I can't recall any issues with it...but SOP at the tine was... if a part gives you problems, leave it off!

There are a couple times during the year when birds think they can fly through my house. I have found some with broken necks, dead. Most do survive, I have held a few while they recover. The last was a catbird. I was able to get a close look at it. On the under side, it has a rusty red coloring.

I saw a coupe done up nicely at the NNL East in 2024. I picked up a PE grille for it. They are real nice kits.

I have my OG kit from 1970 and some partial kits I've acquired over the years. Somehow I got the flip nose and the doors to open at age 15. I also have some pie wagons in the stash. They are both cool kits.

I mix scale parts all the time. I know some that will build only 1/25 scale and nothing else. Sometimes a 1/24 scale engine fills the engine bay in a 1/25 car a bit more.

The gasser version, another BACK IN THE BOX! special of mine. The rear window and windshield openings in the body are poorly formed. They would need to be opened up more and have plastic added to them. I'm not even sure I have the kits (I bought 2...) around. I may have sold them at a show.

I did a little more digging into causes of layer shift. Some are mechanical related to motion hiccups like an unstable work platform, bed and belt problems. I think a novice printed would likely miss these. Plus others I mentioned. I was reading up on things like slic3r and netfabb that will fix support problems, etc. It seems that these are advanced auxiliary programs that new users may not yet know about.

This makes total sense. I'm not going to call out any makers of things I have had issues with in the past. I'm on good enough terms with 1 and I can talk to him. Quite possible he does not know about how to fix it. Just about any kit he does has a layer shift issue. One body in particular might be available from someone else. This person leaves the scaffolding in place and the buyer removes it. I'd say it is very well supported. The one guy who strips all that out, I can't say what he does or doesn't do. Are the files plug-and-play? I know who the originator of the file is and he knows his stuff. I know there are programs available to post-process files before printing.

All of the above. There is a simple formula that determines the offset print angle. Which is not always perfect since car bodies have all sorts of angles to them. The phenomena with the bodies with lines in them is called "print shift". I have seen the same STL file used by different vendors, some have the print shift, some don't. I'm not sure what causes it yet EDIT: I did a search on "print shift" and the correct term is layer shift. This is where experience and troubleshooting skills come into play. I saw one very good video that explained the physical obstructions that occur during a print. This has nothing to do with the file. Things to look for are hitches in the axis motions. A harness or tube that may catch on something during the print. Even a small tangle of the filament as it comes off the spool will do it.