bobss396

I made a magneto today. Materials are mostly aluminum tube. 5/32" x .190" long 1/8" x .312" long 3/32" x .250" long A craft nail, says 13 mm long, but should be a little longer. Diameter is about .055". Wire is wire-wrap, 4 pcs about 4.25" long. In the 1/8" tube, I drill a hole about 2 mm thru 1 wall, about 2 mm from the end, then slot the hole. Take all the burrs off. Fold the wires in half, wrap them around the nail tight as possible. Insert the nail/wires into the slotted tube. Slide the 3/32" tube into the 1/8" tube, secure with CA glue. Slide the 5/32" tube up over the 1/8" tube up to the wires, a little CA glue holds it.

Shoot me a PM with your address and I'll put them in the mail. I don't need anything, you are doing me a favor.

I know i have more #11 blades around.

I dig the OG box art on this kit. I got one for my birthday in 1964. I built most of it the next morning... in bed. I stole a metal nail file from mom and used nail clippers to trim off the excess sprue.

I would whack some off the bed, start with a scale 6", maybe mock one up out if cardboard. I have a '32-ish pickup somewhere in my BACK IN THE BOX!! collection. I should unearth it. This has to be 15 years old and a lot of cool stuff has come out since then.

At work, things would get pitched and it was worth digging through a junk pile. I have enough #11 blades, also #17 blades to last me forever. But... the cheapskate in me always comes out. I had a #11 blade I used easily for almost 2 years. I just kept sharpening it when it was beat up/dull. Funny that scoring copper tubing is tougher on a blade than scoring aluminum tube. If you sharpen them, I don't think it matters where they are made.

There is a very good show on him on cable. I forget where, I don't think Netflix had it.

More work yesterday. I made up an alternate hood, have to see how it plays with the injectors. The radiator needed side pieces added, but fits very well. I have a T for the injectors plumbing, cast aluminum. Jayes Model Car Garage supplied the oil cooler and fittings, which are quite nice.

A cat in heat... keep her locked up. Kitten-season is coming. Gestation is around 9 weeks. We estimated that Mr. Ivan was born around April 23, 2016.

I read that Matt has sold the company to new owners and they will keep the business going. They are in transition right now.

The intake needed a ghastly amount of work to make it look acceptable. I still have to try my hand at some plumbing for it. I did pick up a 3D printed chassis on Etsy, from WCF Motorsports. Definitely a time saver. It is 100% complete and different from the kit. On the rear, it uses bird-cages instead of the watts link. I'll take more pix down the road. The top of the cage does have to come off to install an interior tub.

That looks sharp. I haven't started mine yet, from what I see the kit doesn't need too much else to make a great truck.

Very nice! I like the decals. I did mine back in 1998 when I was just getting back building. Scale Auto shot it for the contest annual. I've seen lots of photos of Ned's ride and they vary from race to race. I used to get hung up if I couldn't find the exact decals to replicate an iconic car. The blue looks good. I used Testors Racing Colors #16... they had a vast array of current (at the time) NASCAR paints. I still have a few cans.

Got a pile of parts from Ron Coon and other vendors today. One piece is a CAE in-out box. Correct or not. I'm gonna use it. I removed the starter too. I'm going with Ron's 4C injectors. Supposedly the intake is made for this kit engine. Well, not really, the angle along the sides does not mate up well with the heads. About 2 hours later, it fits well. I'd post more pictures, but I sliced my thumb and Jeopardy is on soon.

He has great products... if you can wait for them.

Norm Veber was and probably is 1 stop shopping for flathead being. His crab style distributor is hard to beat. Lots of heads, carbs, headers,etc.

I have seen saving up those old kit seat belts. I thin them out from the back, a little paint and they look great.

Rub rails are done. The copper tube ones needed a lot of fitting, I used the kit pieces. The chassis is in primer, tomorrow I start painting all those little parts...

Now I remember why I balk at building these. The rails are the worst part of it. Maybe I should have used the kit parts. I put the rear trailing arms on with tacky glue. Or I have to grow 3 more hands. The straight bars I scribbled down dimensions on my instructions. Easy to mix up #60, #61. So I let this sit for a while. I'm still finding flash after 2nd primer coat...

Thanks. I've had the kit for a week now. The rear shocks are sort of sketchy to install. The rest is not bad so far. I ran across a bag of sprint car parts, mostly tires, wheels and a wing. Nothing usable right now. A hood could be interesting. Getting set to do the rub rails...

I have a set of #4 Olympia Beer decals I got years back. Herschel McGriff tribute car. A great source for modified decals is Polecat Decals. I have to take another look at the site.

Exceptional! I like the MPC headers. I'll have to contact Mike about the body and hoods. Sprint car hoods look good as well. I'm building an OG Mustang one right now. I modified the kit hood, not sure if I like it yet. I have some Big Donkey ones too. I got a Ron Coon order on the way with various parts for the build. I'm not sure how period correct a CAE in/out box will be for the era.

Iconic kits for sure, like giving an artist a blank canvas to work with.

I built one 20+ years ago and have a Gremlin that is in the BACK IN THE BOX! state. I looked for it yesterday with no luck. The basic deburring of the frame is a nightmare. I did it all apart, assembled it and primed it. That shows what I missed. Having a flexi-file helps a lot. Pieces #60, 61, 62 are straight .080" styrene, I find it easier to make them rather than mess with the kit ones. The same goes with the J shaped pieces that support the side bars. These I made from .062" copper tube since I have a bunch of it. Almost everything is pinned using .031" stainless steel pins, 1/8" and 3/16" long. 1/32" brass or even plastic works. The horse shoe shaped interior piece, I made up ledges for it to sit on, inside the body from styrene angle stock. The interior tub wouldn't sit low enough, so I lopped off the thick horizontal pieces (about .050" thick) and used .020" styrene backed up with angle stock. I have to take more pictures. The hood was too wide and unrealistic. I took the razor saw to that. I also have some resin ones I may consider. I'm waiting for my Ron Coon parts, other wheels and tires and wheel backs, his W43 part number. Other parts are a nicer radiator, another seat, etc.

I was at a kit seller's house last week and I got one of the Tobias Early Modified kits. This is the Mustang, has not been released for eons. The body is multi piece but went together well. I pinned almost every joint on the chassis to give it strength. I'll be using Ron Coon dirt tires that are smaller than the kit ones. I closed up the wheel wells by .120" per side. This is about as far as I can go, I have parts coming from Ron Coon. Likely going with injectors. Next will be picking paint and decals.