bobss396

I like the guys who paint the body as the first thing. This is the last thing I do. Almost any kit, I will take .040" to .060" off each chassis side. Any sharp corners get a nice radius. About 99% of model car bodies curve too far in at the rockers. On the inside of the body at the rockers, I thin them out. My plan is to get the body off and on without a fight. At the rear quarter panels, I bond in styrene blocks and drill through the chassis and pin that. I use either something not plastic, 1/32" or 3/64". The through-hole can be opened to facilitate it going together nicely. I will also pin the front chassis to the body where it will be hidden. Interior tubs, I sometimes make up hidden tabs and possibly pin that in place. Always test fit with the dash and glass. I used to cut out those connecting straps on the glass, not so much any more. If I do, I fab locating strips (attached to the roof) so the glass fits easily. Sometimes I get lucky and the glass will snap into place. I use as little epoxy or canopy glue as possible.

He was around forever and was not shy about passing down knowledge to others. We were lucky to have him for as long as we did.

Nice, that's how his windshield looked. He also did something slick, he ran his radiator over flow into the driver side front header tube. I pitted at Islip about 9 stalls down from him. His cars were works of art. Rumor was that the 2nd shift machine shop at the Grumman plant in Calverton NY made lots of parts for his cars.

I like it! The color is amazing. I built one some years back and was impressed with how it went together.

One of the newer ones is molded in green. That one has a great roll cage and other racing parts in it. The last '66 I built (stock car) I grafted a '65 front clip onto it so the wheels would steer.

Thanks, I was out of models from 1974 to 1995 and missed a lot. I always liked the Mustang and finally bought one. I have a spare body for one. I have another Gremlin, some Plymouth and Chevy coupes, all total about 10 more. I got the hood sorted out and possibly in final primer. The body is close too. The valve covers are on, not sure on the injector elements yet. I have to see if I have some white surgical tape.

I cut the kit starter out, also the molded in oil filter. The in-out box is on, so this car will be push start only. The oil filter is .125" styrene rod. The hood is coming along. The engine with the red wired magneto (which was bought) is for a Gremlin modified build. Another BACK IN THE BOX!! special.

Thanks. I'm back and forth on this one. I'm using a lot of different ideas on the built. But... I realize the kit chassis can only go so far. It has no offset, which started to come along around 1975 or so. I've been looking at the Revell ASA kits...

They have or had a GM color that was way darker. I have to see if I still have a can around.

I believe the kit had origins in 1985. The Mustang is an original, I have the '36 Plymouth also an original. Plus many more. I doubt they are still in production. The level of detail is pretty good. Guys like Ron Coon really come through with parts to up the game. I'm still struggling with the magneto. For the 1/8" tube, I'm going to head out to the garage and slot the tube's on my mill. I hope I have a 5/64" end mill on hand. Just my luck that the 1st one went together very easily.

Looks like they will interfere with the door....

I haven't bought a blade, outside of surgical ones I use for mainly foiling. It takes me seconds to touch up a nicked blade. My brother grinds a radius on the back of his, for cleaning up round stuff like roll cages.

1 more shot.

I made a magneto today. Materials are mostly aluminum tube. 5/32" x .190" long 1/8" x .312" long 3/32" x .250" long A craft nail, says 13 mm long, but should be a little longer. Diameter is about .055". Wire is wire-wrap, 4 pcs about 4.25" long. In the 1/8" tube, I drill a hole about 2 mm thru 1 wall, about 2 mm from the end, then slot the hole. Take all the burrs off. Fold the wires in half, wrap them around the nail tight as possible. Insert the nail/wires into the slotted tube. Slide the 3/32" tube into the 1/8" tube, secure with CA glue. Slide the 5/32" tube up over the 1/8" tube up to the wires, a little CA glue holds it.

Shoot me a PM with your address and I'll put them in the mail. I don't need anything, you are doing me a favor.

I know i have more #11 blades around.

I dig the OG box art on this kit. I got one for my birthday in 1964. I built most of it the next morning... in bed. I stole a metal nail file from mom and used nail clippers to trim off the excess sprue.

I would whack some off the bed, start with a scale 6", maybe mock one up out if cardboard. I have a '32-ish pickup somewhere in my BACK IN THE BOX!! collection. I should unearth it. This has to be 15 years old and a lot of cool stuff has come out since then.

At work, things would get pitched and it was worth digging through a junk pile. I have enough #11 blades, also #17 blades to last me forever. But... the cheapskate in me always comes out. I had a #11 blade I used easily for almost 2 years. I just kept sharpening it when it was beat up/dull. Funny that scoring copper tubing is tougher on a blade than scoring aluminum tube. If you sharpen them, I don't think it matters where they are made.

There is a very good show on him on cable. I forget where, I don't think Netflix had it.

More work yesterday. I made up an alternate hood, have to see how it plays with the injectors. The radiator needed side pieces added, but fits very well. I have a T for the injectors plumbing, cast aluminum. Jayes Model Car Garage supplied the oil cooler and fittings, which are quite nice.

A cat in heat... keep her locked up. Kitten-season is coming. Gestation is around 9 weeks. We estimated that Mr. Ivan was born around April 23, 2016.

I read that Matt has sold the company to new owners and they will keep the business going. They are in transition right now.

The intake needed a ghastly amount of work to make it look acceptable. I still have to try my hand at some plumbing for it. I did pick up a 3D printed chassis on Etsy, from WCF Motorsports. Definitely a time saver. It is 100% complete and different from the kit. On the rear, it uses bird-cages instead of the watts link. I'll take more pix down the road. The top of the cage does have to come off to install an interior tub.

That looks sharp. I haven't started mine yet, from what I see the kit doesn't need too much else to make a great truck.