bobss396

I like the old AMT seat belts. I thin them out from the back quite a bit. In the old figure-8 cars I'm doing, I paint the webbing olive drab, as lots of stock cars used army surplus belts.

Mr. Ivan overload....

Mr. Ivan stretched out for a nap.

Accurate. Every tow truck I drove was grimy like that. What did you use for winch cable? I used black .5 mm shop rigging cord on my last one, but leaning towards braided line on the next one.

VCG Resins I believe.

Got the 427 for the Future Mod project wired up.

Plug wires are done. Distributor is homemade. Plug boots are some mil-spec wire that was discarded at work. Outer diameter is .045" and it slips over the wires easily.

I saw some WFC Motorsorts items on Ron Coon's site. Finally ran into it on Etsy. Good stuff and good service. L I picked up some very cleanly made parts. Fire extinguisher, radiator, brake and clutch master, generic roll cage. The cage itself will save me hours on the bench. This is definitely worth a look. And I got a very nice gasser front axle too.

Even swap for any kits mentioned above. The '36 Chevy coupe, Vega, Pinto modified kits.

We had maybe 5" and the driveway was mostly slush. I started the clean up and my son helped out a bit later. Which was good since last night was down around 22 and everything froze again.

I like using old butter tubs and similar plastic containers. Usually I impale a part on a toothpick. Sometimes I add small holes where they will not be seen later. I also glue short pieces of tubing to the inside of parts and break it off later. On the tubs, save the lids. I tape something heavy, like small stones, to the inside of the lid so the wind doesn't blow it over outside.

I made bezels for some Mercs I have done in the past, when I had lathe access at work. I ran into some bigger K&S aluminum tube the other day, 9/32". That could be used as liners, french the outer rims.

Steering boxes, what fun! I took those craft jewels off, cut the heads off of some Woodpile mini nails are used those. The pitman shaft comes out for adjustments. Patched the gaps on the floor pan, reattached the battery box. The body needed material added to the driver side wheel well. The body was out of symmetry by .090". I made a longer oil filter, much better. 4 speed again is from VCG Resins. That will be pinned in place. The kit headers are about as good as they are gonna be. I have a set of Ron Coon headers I extended the tubed on. I have flanges made up. Hanging pedals are parts box items. Shocks are complete, the fronts will use 3/64" brass rod to locate. Front spindles are pinned, ready for the disc brakes. I have a pretty long laundry list that I'm slowly getting through. Next up is a full test of the headers and rub rails.

.. looking for even trades for AMT/MPC Pinto,Vega and '36 Chevy coupe modified kits. Prefer sealed. The '34 Slammer kit comes with lots of other extra parts common to the rest of the product line. Like side rails, rear partition panels, firewalls. I have too many of these kits (bought a couple of cases some years ago). Thanks!

I like this quite a bit.

Thanks. The steering box came to me in the wee hours. I had it designed in my head by the time I got up.

The things you think of at 4:30 am when the cat wants to play. I was looking for a decent steering box for this build. I don't want to Crack another kit open. So I made a couple. I'm not sure if it will fit... but these are prototypes. I used 1/8" plastruct square stock that has a center hole. Some 3/32" and 1/16" aluminum tubing and a craft jewel, a 1/32" pin to hold it to the chassis. I got them in primer right now.

Engine assembly,at least partial. I have to wire up the starter, I have no access once the headers are on.

Calling the cage DONE. The rear kickers are 2 pieces, the upper pieces are pinned to the lower, to be installed at assembly. Ron Coon disc brakes are complete and look good. I had to remove material from the caliper top to get them about 1/2 way into the wheels.

Now the body sits straight, goes back together the same way every time. I'm doing some bars and having 2 ends with a compound angle makes it harder. I now make the bars in 2 pieces. Get the angled ends right. Cut the other ends that meet square. Now you can index the ends, glue the middle. Rear kicker bars are up next. More fun since the cage is offset to the left. Which was common on modifieds. The kit does not give a ton of room as it is, even worse with the floor pan left stock.

The cat? That's Ivan's baby picture.

Got the 3D printed engine painted. It came less a few things like the starter and transmission. I'll start to get a few things assembled and see how it fits the engine bay.

Ok... the Future Mod is back. I got disgusted with botching up the body to chassis fit.. BACK IN THE BOX! I decided to try some new Ron Coon Resins parts on it. Last night I was able to get the body in a good location. I used some styrene angle and pinned it 2 places along the rockers. This is one of my major dislikes with the kit. The disc brakes (not shown, just been primed) are from Ron Coon and fit inside the wheel backs. Next up is to add a ledge to the firewall to make fitting the "glass" easier. I have to fix the battery box, or make it modular to install the battery/box as a single unit. Then I have to pin the transmission to the crossmember, the Muncie is a VCG Resins piece. I may try to improve the front motor mounts. I don't want the engine coming loose. I have a few headers to choose from.

I had rhinoplasty in 2000, spent those 1st few days roughing out a pro street Chevelle. In 2016 after heart surgery, I started a chopped '48 Ford, it was good therapy.

VCG Resins has a very nice one. I have a Turbo 350 from him.