bobss396

I'm liking the Vallejo line of paint. I get the acrylic bottles at Hobby Lobby. I squeeze some out in an old bottle cap, add a couple drops of water and stir it up. I was using it un-cut, thinned helps it lay down more betterer.

My aunt Adele had one, the base model, zero frills with the 6 and manual shift. She drove that up until around 1975.

I use rattle cans almost exclusively. I have 3 airbrushes, but lack indoor space to paint/ set up a booth. I paint outside, any weather outside of rain or snow. I did paint a NASCAR truck outside in a drafty back porch with snow blowing through the cracks, at night with just a jelly-jar light next to the door. It was a Tamiya TS spray and it came out fine. Just about anything like a body goes into the dehydrator. I now let them flash off for about 10 minutes first. A good primer is key to any paint work. I like Mr. Surfacer, Tamiya of course and Duplicolor

I do a lot of drilling and pinning of parts and assemblies. I'm in the habit of test fitting everything. I try to leave nothing to chance in the late stages. There is nothing worse than having a CA or epoxy applied part getting away from you. Pinning will reduce the amount of any adhesive you will need.

I use metric for everything. 1 mm.(.03937"... .040" .. close enough) = 1 inch. 1.5 mm = 1.5", pretty close for radiator hoses. A quick and easy metric conversion: For example, convert 1.2 mm to inches, multiply the 1.2 x 4, and you get 4.8, now shift the decimal 2 places to the left and you get .048". I do most of these in my head.

Thanks Matt. I have a body now with a wood grain look in a few isolated spots. I bought some stock car bodies that are quite good. These came with the scaffolding, so I have an idea how it was grown. We did a lot of printing at work. Mainly tooling work that was quite accurate dimensionally. Assembly tools for the most part. I've been out of there for 5 years, but everything was done in the flat. We had one desk top printer, parts had to be pried off with a spatula.

I watched almost zero TV between 1973 and 1983. This was the heyday of inane sitcoms from what little I did see, I did not miss much.

35 F but sunny. The past winter has had it all, heavy wind and rain, not much snow... which is okay. Maybe a 20" total. 1996 we topped 100" of snow with the President's Day dump of 30". I think it was 1971 or 1972, for Easter break it snowed heavily. My brother was camping with a church group.

I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the topic but... why are some parts made on angled supports? I see some smaller ones on steeper angles, some car bodies I've gotten were as much as on a 30* angle. Does this improve the surface finish?

I was up around 4 am with the wind and rain, it was 51 F, 2 hours later, 45. Real Monsoon rain from 10 last night up til an hour ago.

Well there are high-build primers and there is always stucco to fall back on.

49 F and overcast... again. Saturday was a big tease, going to be cool most of the week.

I have a printed stock car body and on the sides, it looked almost like shiplap siding. Fortunately there is no fine detail to be concerned with. So I start wet sanding with a #400 sanding stick, which was getting nowhere. I dropped down to #180 and made progress from there. I finished up with #800 sanding pad. I have another stock car body that has finer detail to consider. Some of these wear like iron, so I'm doing it area by area and trying to not make MORE work for myself.

I saw this on their modified chrome wheels... nothing would touch it.

41 F and overcast right now. Yesterday, by 3 it was 75 and felt good to be outside. By 5... dropped to 49 and rain.

I feel like I am cursed... I cannot seem to get away from those 2 piece MPC-ish chassis that are in too many kits. By 1974, most leaf spring rears were gone in the top league. The front suspension and cage under the hood are too much like work.

I have this cut on my thumb that is in a bad place, slow to heal. I'm going to hit that with CA glue, the thick stuff. Hobby Lobby has good CA glues, thin, medium and thick. The thin is quite runny. I try not to apply it right from the bottle. The thick Loctite is my go-to pretty much. I squeeze out as much as I need, even a tiny dot. I usually use thin cardboard squares or bottle tops to put it in. Toss it before I get it where I don't want it.

I pin most sub assemblies to reduce fumbling around during final assembly. The pin holes are good to hold small parts for painting as well. I just picked up dome Slo Gap CA glue that should help me out. The Loctite ones set up instantly on smooth surfaces, giving zero time for adjustments.

46 and overcast. I was roaming the back 40 yesterday, I do see tulips and other bulb plants emerging. Today is supposed to break 70, but possible we will get rain with that.

44 F today. Saturday is supposed to be over 70. So far we aren't having very much of a spring. Usually in February we get into the 45 to 55 range for a few days.

That is what I was told by a clerk, he said "come back on Monday". I did ... no sale.

I bought it. The missing pieces that flew off are... missing. I made new parts from .080" styrene rod and it looks good. I'll do some putty in a bit and squirter some primer on it. Edit: Headers are good enough to paint

More broke off than I had thought. Again, I have no recollection of dropping it at any time. All I can guess is that there might be locked-in stressed in 3D parts, and when they are released... watch out. I'm lucky to have a spare chassis that I can refer to. Missing pieces I can make from styrene or dig through my box of roll cage parts. I just got some 2 mm tubing I may try, although the wall thickness is about .025 mm. But 1/16" rod fits inside it

30 F... way too cold for late March.

Josh has always treated me very well.