bobss396

I buy a lot from Ron Coon and always wind up buying TOO much. I'd suggest his wheel backs and he has a drum brake set that fits into the backs. I can dig up part numbers if anyone is interested.

I also remove the tape ASAP. And never put anything taped up into the dehydrator. I use mainly Tamiya TS sprays and lacquer. Very little acrylic use, just for small items I brush paint.

There was a place, Scale Dreams. They carried the MAS line and lots more. It was one-stop shopping... then it was gone. My go-to now is a few eBay sellers and more and more 3D printed sellers.

Insane paint work.

This was some of the theme class. Vincent LoBosco took the top prize with his #28 car/hauler. My brother had the red '55 Chevy, white and orange and the Wood Bros entries

Most likely, yes. I was friendly with Mark for many years when he owned it. I still have a set of his dragster wire wheels, some braided line, seat belt hardware, etc. Nobody has really stepped up to fill the MAS void.

There was also a 1960 Chevy wagon that looked pretty cool. I didn't ask if it was new tooling. I started the 1971 Demon as a club project. That looks like new tooling and pretty well thought out.

I need to get back on my chopped '32. I have a 3D chassis from juan4you to consider, also some dropped axles from Iceman Collections. I may have a cleaned up chassis from Norm Veber. Iceman also sells a nice chassis. Whatever I do, that clumsy k-member has got to go. I have some quick change rears from VCG Resins, one is a direct swap in. Sometimes a stalled project is a good thing, as new products are always coming out.

I never tried gloves, to me they may nit have enough grip to them. Also, make sure your fingernails are trimmed and have no rough edges. I was color-sanding a body over the sink and a thumb nail caught an edge and chipped it.

I have a mountain of carbide circuit board drills from work that were being thrown out. Sure they are fragile and the parabolic twist makes them "grabby" in hand held drilling. They are made to be spun fast. I bought a metric set of HSS drills at a hobby shop, made in Israel. 4 out of the 8 were either ground off center or had a negative rake. But the little case is handy. I'm blowing through my tiny HSS drill hoard. I recently bought some Walther HSS drills, #71 to #76 and a #65 (.035") which is good for installing 1/32" pins. I have an index of short screw machine drills I use for bigger holes. Most are HSS, some are cobalt.

We introduced Ivan to Chloe when he was 8 weeks old and had all his shots. But she KNEW there was another cat in the house before that. She was with us for 4 years already. Man... she did not like the new kitten one bit. We had to watch her with him. Probably why he is still skittish to this day. We put her down almost 3 years ago, she had mandibular cancer. Ivan did not miss her, or didn't let on.

Burbank has a lot of cool rare stuff. I have them as a saved seller on eBay.

It will not likely crimp that far unless you have a serious bench vise.

I like it. Try adding a junk hood to place over the winch, it can be loose. Yards often did this to protect the winch from rain and snow.

That does look good. I pick up pins at crafts stores when I find something I like.

Is there an expiration/manufacture date on the box or tube? See if the hobby store will take it back. I use Bondo brand too. I'm down to the end of a tube I've used for years. It would be nice if it was made in lighter colors. I used to use Nitrostan, aka red lead. That also comes in colors. Downsides, the tube is huge and has a crappy shallow cap. I have had a tube go bad on me and the stuff is nor cheap.

Final assembly, I just wash my hands quite often. No lotion on them. I make a "safe space" to lay the body during assembly. Usually a model box top lined with plain paper towels. Not that I always take my own advice... but limit any fumbling around trying to install things like bumpers, etc. Those I pin, test fit, test fit again. The worst is that body-chassis final mating ritual. I head that off early on, as not to fight with it. For some unknown reason, model manufacturers make the bodies with excessive curvature towards the rocker panels and rear quarters. What to do? I started a '71 Dodge Demon kit for a club project. Talk about an ungodly fight to get the body onto the chassis. I used a Sharpie, marked out where I wanted to remove material from the frame side rails, about 1 mm and 1.5 mm from the rear chassis wheel wells, also took from off from behind the front wheels. I use a dial caliper to scribe my lines. Everything gets a radius sanded on it. I may go back and look, sometimes I'll remove material from inside the body, thin out the rockers and the rear quarters. As it is now, the body goes on a ton easier than it did.

Why not use brass rod? I use it for a lot of things. Worst case, you'd have to squirt a little paint on it. Or leave it bare.

The first ones I got were from Modelhaus with real rubber tires. The rears were dualism. The best 3D ones are made by Iceman Collections. WFC Motorsports on Etsy has a nice set too.

They should be mobile very soon.. momma will have her paws 🐾 full.

61 F and a little wet out. A good day for indoor modeling.

I had chopped a Revell '32 a while back, Norm Veber had an interest in borrowing it for a master .. but it took me forever to get done. This is a long-stalled project, but lots of new items have come out since, so it may be back in work soon.

Ivan in his new favorite spot. He turns 9 in 2 days.

A few of Brie playing on the floor on Easter. 20250420_135325.mp4

Saturday broke 80 degrees, I was at my girlfriend's assembling deck furniture all day. We duid have shade to work in. Easter was breezy and cooler out. Today, it was 40 F when I got up.