ACR-E Doug

Always lacquer for everything. They lay down better and don't build up a heavy as other paints. My favorites are: 1) MRP 2) MR Color 3) Tamiya LP 4) Splash and Gravity for bodies.

So sad to hear. I have built one of his kits and in the middle of another one. I hope the company will be able to continue on. There was no body that cared more about model kits than him. RIP Mr Hiro

Paul maybe I will start posting the build, I've never done one before. I'll have to get my kids to show me how to post pictures!!! LOL

any updates yet, I just started my kit and was starting to follow your progress. After 2 days I'm thinking this will be a long build.

I have had good luck with Up Scale Hobbies and probably do most of my shopping with Spot Models in Spain.

I do F1 models most of the time. I always use put down Micro Set first then the decal followed by Micro Sol, if they really don't want to lay down well then Solvaset will be applied. I use soft paint brushes to work them down and keep them wet at all times. On decals that have compound surfaces or folds I almost always use a hair dryer. If you have the new issue of Model Car you can see (page 50) the Haas F1 car that i did, I had over 60 carbon decals to apply and used heat on everyone. Look at the "HAAS" name and that has multiple compound surface, would have been really hard to do if I did not use heat, and while using heat I keep it wet with Micro Sol and keep brushing it many times back and forth. Don't be afraid to do this several times, on the carbon front wings I probably applied heat and Micro Sol 4-6 times per decal. Give heat a try and I think you will see how well it works.

This is great stuff for photo etch and other small detail parts. One thing that makes it work so well is it doesn't try hard and brittle so the parts seem to stay on better (at least for me).

Most paints can be covered with 2K. I have been using 2K for many years and never had a problem with any paint or decals.

for me its always (most of the time) 2k. But make sure your enamel paint is dry.

I've been using this glue for 3 years now, and the clogging is a problem. But like the post said just pull the needle and place it over the flame and it will be good as new.

Ever Coat works great for larger areas

You will have no problem. You can spray pretty much anything over Zero primer.

Yep, I always have had great service.

I was worried about my booth when I built it a few years back, I have a cage blower the is rated at 275cfm. I was some what happy with it but thought it should pull better than it did, so I thought about my dryer flex hose might be causing some problems. I removed the hose and turned on the fan and holy cow it was light night and day, I took a peace of paper and held it in front of the filter and it sucked it right up tight. I then put the hose back on and tried it again and it was like half the suction. So I then replaced the flex hose with 5in solid ducting and what a change it maid. So you might just try and remove the hose and hold up paper and see if it helps, you will then know if your flex hose is your problem. BTW was hose was only about 5 feet total with two 90's.

Any chance you have a part number on the package, I looked up Tuf Line and there are a ton of products so I wasn't sure which one was yours.

No problem using 2K over most paints. I sometimes apply a light coat of TS13, then decal the model and then finish with 2K. I've even used 2K over Future when we couldn't get TS13 a few years ago.

Contact MFH about the body problems, they will help you out. Doug

Francis, I was wondering when you have parts held in your lathe chuck and then do your work on the mill do you remove the part with a slitting saw on the mill or do you put the chuck on your lathe and use a cut off tool?

Did you paint the STP Red or did you use the red decal sheet?

Just received the new Salvino's JR 1973 Petty Charger. I haven't started it but looking at it I think they did a good job, the body looks spot on.

My main primers are Mr Hobby Surface Primer and also Stynylrez.

I have had very good service from Up Scale Hobbies and Spot Models for my F1 stuff

I was in the same boat a few years ago between the 2 brands. I ended up with the Sherline lathe and mill and am really glad I did after talking to a guy with a Taig lathe. They both are great but like someone said its kind of like a Tamiya vs Monogram. One other point is Sherline offers a DRO kit for the mill and lathe, I just bought this upgrade and boy does it help me work faster and I find I make less mistakes with them.

As for Zero Paints I get them from UpScale Hobbies, Hobbyworld USA and Spot Models. These are also very good paint, but they are a little on the hot side. I have to say Gravity Paints USA are by far the best paints I have ever used.

I just ordered paint from them less than 3 weeks ago and received them in 14 days. I guess I've been lucky because I have ordered 2 times this year and got the paint about 2 weeks later, and I live on the west coast so its going to take about 5 days with USPS.