dmthamade

Once you try Tamiya primer, you'll never go back. There is an argument that it's expensive, but so is redoing a paint job or even dumping a kit full of resin(more an aircraft thing)aftermarket because the paint went sideways. So, paint once with good materials, or do a redo because of sketchy materials.....your choice. Don

Prep before any paint goes on is important. Surfaces have to be CLEAN of oils, grease. Any gloss surface gets a scuffing with 600 wet/dry. Primer choice depends on color coat choice, lately it's been Tamiya spraybomb primer for everything, though will try Duplicolors in future. It's not the tape you use, it's prep and primer/paint choices that are the issue. What paints are you using? Don

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Thanks for the positives, guys!! On holidays now, had some time to work on the build. Primed with Tamiya spraybomb, then applied color coat. Tamiya XF-28, Dark Copper. I thinned this with Mr.Color thinner, 3 coats. Sealed with Tamiya X-22 Clear thinned with Mr.Color, 3 coats. From what i'vre read, i should let this dry for 3 weeks before sanding/polishing. Don

Great history lesson on early ford pro stock!! Look forward to the build. Don

Thanks, guys!! It's been a long time since an update, life got in the way. Did manage to get it up on all 4, interior done, engine installed. Have to say, the engine takes up a lot of room, fitting it and the headers and steering linkages was fun. I don't know if it is accurate to the real Dyno Don car, but the pedals look off, gas pedal is HUGE, clutch/brake pedals look too high and too far way from the firewall. Steering column/wheel look too high, angle should be less. Other than that, all else looks ok. Would have been easy to fix the column, the pedals would need to be mounted lower and closer to the firewall. Next up, working on the body. Still haven't decided on a color. I had to scrape away the bottom of the hood to clear the air cleaner, easier to do on a plastic kit than a real car. Fit onto the chassis needed a little tweaking but otherwise was ok. Don

Yup!! Did a P-38 in NMF using their specific primer and paint with sufficient drying time. Masked to paint different panels and the pant came off in sheets. Had to start over. At least stripping the paint was easy, used green masking tape. Have used their normal primer with mixed results. Prime with anything else and the paint is great!! Don

Be careful with their primer. Have had bad luck with paint and primer pulling up with masking tape. Especially true with their metal colors and primer. Priming with any other primer the paint works great. I've even used Tamiya XF-19 as a primer for their paints, worked fine. Don

Tamiya X-22 thinned with Mr Color thinner or Mr Color leveling thinner. Next would be Tamiya TS-13. All this might change doing glossy schemes. Don

Guns!! Car like that, gonna need guns.

Classic hotrod!! Don

Hello all!! New here, first in progress build. I'm not building this in the kit colors, going off on my own. I've done very few cars, been doing 1/32 aircraft for decades. This build is more an exercise in building and painting, i'll worry about details as i build more car kits. Still haven't figured out what the color will be, building this with a black interior. I have been using different sheens of black to try and avoid a monochrome look. There is matt, semi gloss and gloss black in the interior. I did hit the handles and cranks with silver. Dash is gloss black on lower parts with top semi gloss. Might hit the dash with clear flat to take away some of the shine. Engine is painted ford blue with various metallic silvers for manifold, valve covers, timing cover. Fan belt looks really odd, something to change in later builds. I stripped the chrome off all parts but the bumpers and grilles. Don

Have used Model Air, find it needs a primer or it would scratch away easily, not stick to bare plastic. Use your go to primer, find Vallejo primers don't stick too well, though. Can't say enough good about Tamiya spraybombs, they work. Best over a primer though have sprayed over bare plastic OK. Metallics need a primer especially if filler or work was done. Don

Great topic!! Years ago I was building a 1/32 A-7E CorsairII by Trumpeter. All going great, glued wings, etc together, dried and sanded seams. Parts fell apart. Huh. Reglued, resanded, fell apart... glue had zero effect on the "plastic". I was using a hot solvent cement, tried spilling some on a wing part and pressing with finger...nothing. Don't know what material it was, but it got binned. Just bad juju when a kit can't be glued together. I've got a few recent car kits in the stash now, I can see the plastic looks "different" from the aircraft kits i'm used to. The only thing that will matter will be the end results, though. Don

So, you like Mustangs? Back in the day, I remember how my buds wanted the 60s ponys over the 70 because they were smaller and lighter. I always liked the 70s Mustangs. How long you figure to build all these? Don

Yup!! That's something I did know, with car colors it's more important than a low viz F-16. Also affects the amount of color coats needed for coverage, eg. white over dark grey primer vs white over white primer. I do remember candy colors are greatly affected by the base coat, light silver vs dark silver or gold. All this to say stay consistent with the primers!! Don

Building aircraft kits, navigation/position lights need to be added. If/when I do, I put a base color of silver down first, then after it dries I apply Tamiya clear red, yellow or orange. Seems if you have bare metal foil down already then add the clear paint, you can have the bezel and lens easily. Haven't tried this yet (no chrome bezels on warplanes) but maybe on a future build. Don

Well i'm happy with the primer, now I just have to pick the color coat. I'm doing the Model King Comet Cyclone, hoping to do a different color than what's on the box. I should start a build in progress post. Don

Great that you're continuing with the build in spite of all the setbacks. I built this kit in 2013 as a break from planes. The decals went bad for me as well, reacted with the clearcoat I applied. Stripped off, had to repaint, then redid some with Tamiya spray bomb gold and Indycals decals. At the time I was happy with how it turned out, now i'm thinking I could do better....The indycals decals worked great, though they aren't as crisp or in register as the Tamiya kit decals were. Don

Great ideas all!! I've been looking at some finished builds with the neatly done badges, etc and been wondering how the heck am I going to do that? Reminds me of picking out details in model aircraft cockpits, something i'm not good at. Lots to learn... Don

Except for the wheels, I deplated everything. All the plated parts had a lot of flashing and fit was poor, so it was a choice of shiny but poor fit, or no seams and no shine. I need to find an alternative to painting parts that should be chromed or highly polished. Lots to learn after 30+ years of flat aircraft finishes. Don

1960 Chevy Sedan Delivery. It's a two door, wagons are four doors. I think i remember building this kit, does it have a flip front? Don

Hello!! New guy checking how to post pics and adding a completed build. Recently finished this kit. Have to say, there are a LOT of inaccuracies and fit issues with this kit, but it is from real old molds. Not OOB, did change the stance a bit and didn't do any plumbing. This is the most recent release with updated wheels/tires and decals. Don

OK, so i bought a can of the Duplicolor sandable primer. Big can. As a first try, i have the floor pan/ chassis and the two inner panels to paint. Read instructions, prepped parts and...painted. Hit the parts with two light coats 20min apart, then one color coat. Stuff dries fast, no crazing, worked as you guys said?. I have to say, it has a WIDE spray pattern!! but it's for real cars!! Thanks for the great advice, guys!! Don

Man you guys are killing me. Everything looks great....I'm having cold breakfast cereal for dinner.... Don