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Ian McLaren

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Everything posted by Ian McLaren

  1. Progress continues but the sheer number of scratch build pieces slows things down, for example there are 7 pieces in each air/CO2 tank plus two mounting brackets each, three pieces in each plug wire and seventeen pieces in the magneto and offset drive assembly. the electronics box is also parts and labor intensive. All of that aside assembly of the chassis has begun. Final paint and details are now being donewith wire and cable runs to be added next
  2. The chassis is now Tamiya Dark Metal with two clear coats and is now ready to start assembly. A long time coming.
  3. Worked on the chassis for a couple of days on clean up and adjustments, finally I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, primer is on
  4. The chassis is progressing as are the related details, puke tank and lines, steering gear and instrument panel
  5. First time the body and chassis are connected by the correct mounts, and the wheelie bar has been fabricated
  6. When the B1 heads came out they caused great concern to those of us running Chevrolet power. It turned out the concern was justified and these became very competitive. Your machining skills have certainly done these heads justice and really add to the pedigree of the engine. I agree with Tim, bring on the valve covers!
  7. As per usual everything looks great, I am really enjoying watching this progress.
  8. Back from a short holiday, did make some progress yesterday, on to the chassis and front and rear suspensions.
  9. LOL Sorry Tim, not really showing off, once the jig was made getting the second chassis to this point only took about 1 3/4 hours. There is still a lot to do on both!
  10. Thank you Francis, I, like you try to use the correct material where ever possible as nothing looks like metal except metal when it's not painted
  11. The side skirts in aluminum really start to bring out the personality of this body style
  12. Side skirt template makes all the difference to the overall look, re-reprofiled the front fender area again and the injector just needs a small spacer between it and the 14-71, just like the real car. Next, to clean up the front end and lower front edge of the fender and I'll be close to the final primer coat and blocking the body for paint. Also shown basic chassis partially assembly in the jig to set chassis and body ride height and drive train alignment. I was having trouble with my iron when doing the seat, it has since been cleaned up as have all of the tube joints.
  13. And did I mention cheap, it also works well if you are building mutiple structures that have to match regardless of the material. I have used it for one off structures but usually just use the magnetic assemble set as repeatability is not as much of a factor.
  14. Yes it has, I dom't think I could have gotten to this point with the Plastic model that's out there.
  15. Thank you Steve, I'm building two versions of the same chassis , I just started on the one for the Thunderbird today, the one shown is for the Vega . BTW your Promod chassis looks to be coming along nicely.
  16. After constructing the basic Vega chassis and compairing it to the thunderbird body it became apparent that the differences are somewhat larger than originally thought. So a redesign of the template was going to be easier than adjusting the original jig. Here is the early redesign of the Thunderbird chassis with the Keith Black out its correct 68 inches from the rear axle centerline and the relocated rear engine plate .
  17. The block is amazing and a testament to patience and carefull planning. I'm not a machinest, although I did take a rudimentry course as part of my drafting technology program nearly fifty years ago. I was however the general manager of Davenport Racing for several years and we did race motor design and machining to a very high tolerance. So I do have an appreciation for the efforts involved. To see you working on an item nearly 25 times smaller and achieving this type of accuracy is simply mind boggeling. I cannot wait for the next batch of wonders that emerge for your very high performance race engine machine shop. Very well done indeed!
  18. Thank you Tim I was actually putting a tutorial together on how I do a chassis (brass or Plastic), it is certainly not the definative method but it's quick, easy and simple. Here are some photos of the beginning of the process. I use simple white shelving material as a base and draw the chassis side view on it to scale, I use 1/8th hard balsa to build the guides for the main rails and superglue them to the shelf the photos will expand on the process including the sleves for joining the tubes. once the main rails are completed I simply cut and fit the vertical bars to press the main rails to the sides of the jig and then solder them in place
  19. Right side of the Hadman chassis has all of the major tubes in place, and the left side is in the jig now. Once it is done I'll make the minor changes required to the jig and build the sides for the Thunderbird, as they are basically the same except for engine placement
  20. My rendition of the Hadman chassis in the Vega and Thunderbird the only difference will be the rear section of the upper main rail to accomodated the difference in how far out the engines are from the rear axle centerline. Generally the more power the further out it is.
  21. My rendition of the Hadman chassis in the Vega and Thunderbird, the only difference will be the rear section of the upper main rail to accomodated the difference in how far out the engines are from the rear axle centerline. Generally the more power the further out it is.
  22. Here is a look at the Hadman chassis I'm using for both cars. The basic chassis will be the same except for the motor placement. The Cosworth will be around 55" out where as the KB was 66" out from the rear axle centerline, if was running on Nitro it would have been 68" out with a second set of mounts as per how the original Girl Trouble Car was set up.
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