MarkJ

Thanks guys. I appreciate the replies.

I cleared the model yesterday with model master acryl gloss clear. I polished it out today and after I put future on it when its completely finished it should look pretty good.

Thanks, Ace. I always like a red and black combo and I saw a picture of a 50 Ford with the outside color the same as this model with a red and black interior so I went with it..

Painted the body and was real pleased with the outcome, but I had to make a pattern on the hood and trunk area and free handing it with masking tape did not work. It wasn't symmetrical down the middle of the car. My wife is in to scrap booking so I asked her if she had any tips. She said to fold the masking in half make your curve and cut it folded over. Then when you open it back up it will be symmetrical.I have some frisket film but I need a French curve tool to make a nice smooth curve. This will make better sense when I post pictures of the finished body. One thing I found using the model master acryl is when you mask it and then remove the masking it does not leave a pattern or residue in the paint like when I used Tamiya rattle can paint.

Wish me luck. I'm going out to paint the body.

I think it will be easier, and I know what I will have, if I just mix my own acryl paint and use that. I've been wanting to go non toxic for a while anyway. But thanks, David for the info.

Dover gray is so light it almost looks white. I'm going to have to mix not even a drop of black into some gloss white mm acryl to get the color I need.

Nobody makes a light enough gray to duplicate Dover gray so i'm going to use my airbrush on this model and mix my own Model master acryl paint. Its more work than a rattle can but I've been wanting to get back to the airbrush and acryl paint for a long time.

Thanks, Rebel. I think I will try to sand and prime the body today.

I added the rear license hood from the 50 kit and for the door handles I added small square pieces of styrene under the handles and then some .025 rod to them to make the handle buttons. not perfect but the best I can do. I had to move the door lock cylinders because they are too close to the handles on the 49. They had to be scratched from styrene and they are tear drop shaped instead of round.

Rebel, I don't know if I would be able to shave off the handles and transfer them. I tried that once before and failed miserably. Might just have to leave that for the rivet counters to complain about.

David, I was thinking the same thing about doing the 49 convertible but don't know how I would do the ford lettering on the hood.

I need to add hood and trunk ford emblems. I made decals for this but I want the emblem to stick out a bit so I printed the decal on paper and cut out the emblems on a thin piece of styrene sheet. I glued the small styrene emblem images to the hood and trunk. After sanding and painting I will have a place to put the emblem decals that will give them a little more dimension then just placing a decal there. The rear license plate hood comes in the fifty kit so I wont have to scratch build it for the 49. .

I need to make a gas door on the 49 body so here is how I did it. I placed a piece of paper that can be relocated on to the 49 in the same location. I went over the gas door on the fifty with a lead pencil and it leaves an image of the gas door beneath it. I put the piece of paper in the same location on the 49 and cut out the door with a #11 exacto blade leaving the outline scribed in the plastic on the 49. I then went over the door with a panel scriber to enhance the door. I also added a small wedge of styrene to duplicate the finger hold used to open the door.

I guess I'm not realizing that the 2 door sedan and coupe are different. I really want to do the coupe. I did one resin model before and I wont be doing another.

David, I was thinking of transferring the roof like you said but when I looked at the interior for the 49 it was so close to pictures that I saw of a 50 I figured it wasn't worth the effort. The things I will have to do is use the 50 grille and front and rear bumpers . The rear license plate overhang and taillights will transfer. The ford letters will have to be removed from the 49 hood. The dash for the fifty and steering wheel transfers easily to the 49 tub. The engines look identical. I will have to make hood and trunk emblems to put on the 49 hood and trunk. I will also have to make a fuel door for the 49. The 49 came with a cap instead of a door . I will probably find some more differences but it shouldn't be a big deal. Thanks for your reply and if you can think of anything else please let me know.

Here are the two kits.

It will take two kits to build this model. the amt 50 ford convertible and the amt 49 ford two door sedan.

Here's the link to the wip if interested. http://randyayersmodeling.com/modelingforum/viewtopic.php?t=90098

Looks real good, George.

Beautiful build, Tim. Great work on the chassis and engine.

David, I usually use evergreen clear sheet styrene but I had packaging material that some small red cups came in and I used it for these shark fins. I guess I need to make templates for the shark fins but they can vary from car to car. Just take the dimensions using a divider right off the model then cut them out and adjust them till they fit. That's what I did. Thanks for the reply.

This is his first win car from Pocono last year. I know it was rain shortened but to be leading at that point of the race was pretty impressive in an underfunded car and being a rookie. I'm sure his future wins will be well deserved if he gets in top notch equipment. I used the Revell snap kit , Tamiya paint, home made decals, and I did a lot of scratch work to the front end to make it look more like the real car. I know the pictures are not being shown here anymore but if you click on the link below you can see them directly at photobucket http://smg.photobucket.com/user/texwardfan/library/2016%20Jeb%20Burton%20Ford?sort=3&page=1

Good luck with those decals. Looks very challenging to say the least.