MarkJ

Thanks, David. The finish is now glossy but grainy at the same time especially on the hood. I will post a photo later showing this. My aim is to get the graininess gone and have a smooth glossy finish. That will take a lot of polishing and probably another coat of clear. I will wait a couple of more days before I start the polishing process. In the meantime, I will try to prime all the interior pieces and get them painted and then assemble the interior. I also need to decal the tires with firestone decals and a gold stripe. This is very painstaking work to get the gold stripe evenly all around the tire using a toothpick to nudge it into place and hope that the decals are not too old and brittle. A tiny drop of dish detergent in the decal water will help in making the stripe move easier into place. Then I can start thinking about final assembly. Mark

Got the body cleared and I will have to sand the blue and maybe reclear it if I go through to paint. The blue did not go on as smoothly as the gold. I don't know if it was because it was a mixed paint and the gold was not. Maybe with mixed paint the ratio of paint to thinner needs to be tweaked a little. maybe a greater percentage of thinner to paint. I'll wait a few days before I try polishing with sanding pads. probably start at 3600 and go up to 12000 being very careful not to go through. the clear. Got the head support done and the seat except for harnesses that go on after painting.

Wow, David. That sounds like quite a list. Model on and enjoy the journey. Mark J.

David, I'm glad you got your fit issues figured out about the dash. Looks like you're getting pretty close to the end. Mark J.

Thanks , David. Your work with the sharpie reminded me to try that silver paint pen with the sharpie tip on it. I never tried to use it before with masking tape and that's why I never got good results. So, you led me to a new way for me to do my chrome moldings. I believe the body might finally be ready for clear so I might try to do that today. Mark J.

Thanks, Steve. I will check it out.

Thanks, Steve. Its slow going. As usual every step forward, I take I take two steps back. I keep trying to use the Tamiya liquid glue, but it takes forever to actually hold the part strong enough to continue the build on the piece I'm working on, so I revert back to the old testors tube glue that also takes forever to set but at least it holds the parts together once it does. I wish somebody would make a fast setting glue that actually holds the parts together that isn't dangerous for my lungs.

I will need to find the wip on your build. is it here in mcm forum?

Tape removed. Looks good enough till I clear it.

Got the glass moldings painted using a paint stick.

Looks like you had a much better climb throughout your working years then I did. I slaved with tools for 41 years till finally retiring in 2013.

Yes, standard sedans back then including Impalas and Caprices were major aircraft carriers to be driven on the streets. I knew they were hard to drive back then but I just figured that's the way it should be. I started working in a Chevrolet dealership in LaPorte Texas in January of 1972 for $2.50 an hour and thought I was making big bucks back then. Enough to buy a 1968 Corvette convertible with a 427 and 4-speed transmission for $1995.00. That same car in great condition now adays would probably go for a least $30,000.00. Maybe more.

David, your sketch for the automatic shifter looks like it should work when you create the actual part from the sketch. All in all, the interior is coming along very nicely.

Did some more work on the seat and started on the head support. Did some touch up work where all the colors come together at the back of the roof. When I get the windshield and back glass moldings done it will look a lot better.

Steve, yes, I do. I have a small metal box with 3x5 cards in it and put the recipe on the card along with the name of the build and a dab of the paint on each card and I keep them in order of colors. Like all the blues are together and all of the reds are together etc. If I just use the paint as it comes in the bottle, I just note that in my build log because there is no mixing when I do that. I have only had to mix colors on a few of my builds like this one and the iroc Camaro's I did. .

Donato, thank you for stopping by with the much-appreciated comment. Do you have any new builds going on right now? I'd really enjoy seeing what you have going on. Your work is always top-drawer in every way.

Thanks, Steve. It took forever to mix enough white with the blue and aluminum to get the shade I wanted. Using the digital weighing scale makes it more accurate than trying to count drops if I ever need to mix the same color again. It made plenty of paint to go in the sealable condiment cup which is good because the first batch has to be strained into another cup to make sure it's clean, so it won't clog up the airbrush.

Here is how the blue turned out. I will not sand the blue because you should never try to sand or polish metallic paints. Just clear them and polish the clear and try not to polish through the clear to the paint. For the final mirror like appearance, you can use future or quick shine. I put that on with a wide very flexible bristle brush. Some people don't like super glossy paint jobs, but I lean the other way

Wow, David. That chrome around the windshield looks outstanding. Great job masking the moldings first before coloring the moldings.

Thanks, David. I finally got the blue parts of the body painted yesterday afternoon. I mixed 1-gram Createx wicked pearl blue with 1-gram wicked aluminum to get some sparkles in it and 24 grams of wicked pearl white. It takes a lot of white to lighten the shade of that blue but I think I got it pretty close. I saved some of the mixed paint for touch ups. I will shoot the whole body with Tamiya clear and polish it if need be and then after the decals I will future over the decals to make them peel proof with age.

Start of seat mods.

Good supply there. That should keep you busy. Mark.

Very cool. Makes sense that you would make a figure representing him. Nice tribute on your part to do so. That 3d printing is an amazing thing and I'm sure your modifications made for a perfect likeness.

Got the dash gauge image done. Will print it on white decal paper and cut it out and glue it in place just like you see it below. I might make wire circles to go around each gauge . Have to see if it's possible with my lack of dexterity phalanges.

Yes, mighty fine. Is that a 1/24 scale David standing next to the Rolls?