fordsixty

hey there mark. after a little research, i found it. it is a mazda-volvo dealer in milford, connecticut. it is called connecticut's own. here is the web site. http://www.ctsownvolvo.com/ou/milford-volvo/ hope this helps.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY NICK. http://www.groupbrallyclub.com/ crank it up.

hey chris, have you checked out the Revell Stratos kit? it has the little "Dino" v6. i have included photos of the parts tree and the instructions. looks like a very good start for a little detailing. i bought it because i love the group 5 Stratos and i want to put a motor in a Tokyo Marui Platic Stratos Turbo kit i have. hope this helps.

ok. i spent yesterday playing with my new green gun. painting feels normal again. i love it. i have more control and my hand is just more relaxed. felt it the moment i made my first pass. it laid out paint beautifully. i let my buddy, claude, use it to paint his '67 gt500 red. after his first pass, he said the same thing, the control and function are good. so good, he is going to ask for one for his birthday. now bear in mind, we are both over AARP age. so anything that is more comfortable and controllable, is a big plus. the only real negative is the fact that the syphon cap does not screw onto any bottles: tried model master and paasche. in the end, i am very glad i bought it. hey vaughn, i so not know what a master is but the grex is the manufacture of the airbrush i purchased.

dude..... i saw you stuff at Jabbeke, belgium, WOW! super clean and the paint work was flawless. excellent stuff.

thanks guys. i really hope this helps. hey there nick, i already did an impeller..................

thanks gregg

now the bearing housing. just a piece of flat styrene cut and filed in a D will be glued to the other side. this is where the oil pressure and return lines are mounted. the result: should look like this. i took some flat styrene , cut into a square, added four short pieces of round rod for threaded bosses glued to the end which will mount to the exhaust manifold. also took some flat styrene cut into a triangle, to match the three square threaded bosses, and glued to the end that will mount to the down pipe. i drill and add .020" rod in those flanges to help mount it in place. now the impeller side. same proceedure as before. stretch, cut, flash, curl and glue. looks familiar. again, round tube glued to one side for the intake. now, the impeller housing is made of two pieces. the two parts are held together with either bolt/tab clamps or full circle clamps. the reason being, so that the intake tube can be clocked into whatever position for what ever application. so i start with a circle, the same size as the impeller housing, cut out of some flat styrene. i add a short piece of .100" round styrene to the center. here you can see that i added very small triangles around the .100" rod. reinforcement which adds a little more reality. there is also .020" rod in the center so that i can clock the imput tube in the right direction. this is what you will end up with. i added a little more detail: three small pieces around the impeller housing for the clamps and a small piece of flat for the data plate. the turbo on my semi. i know it looks complicated, but it is not. just takes practice and be careful with the lighter. both of these, minus the glue drying time, took just one hour to do. go ahead and give it a try and let me know what you think. if it is not working, let me know. if this is too small for you to work with, you could always start by replicating this. thanks guys.

thought i would share my technique for making turbos. i have made several and have gotten pretty proficient at it. a little paint detail and some PE components, pretty convincing. the size of turbo will determine what size evergreen rod to use. i prefer to use evergreen rod, over left over sprue, it stretches evenly and does not snap in two when stretching slowly. tools required: various sizes of styrene rod various thicknesses of flat styrene lighter hobby knife flat file fine sanding stick pin vise w/ appropriate sizes of drill bits ruler/scale zap-a-gap CA your favorite styrene glue i will start with a picture of what i want. this will do, a basic garrett. first, using the lighter, slowly heat up a half inch section rod while rotating the rod with your fingers. this helps ensure and even heat saturation. when the unheld end of the rod starts to slowly droop, it is time to stretch. now, slowly pull the ends of the rod, stretching it. what we want is a nice long, smooth taper. something like this. now cut the rod where the taper ends. now the tricky part. beware, this will take practice. from this point forward, you will only need to flash the rod into the flame. you do not want the rod heated. you just want it soft enough to bend. flash the rod into the flame and bend it up 90 degrees. as so. now we need to start curling the rod around into a circle. this is the technique i use to maintain a nice circle. you may have to develope your own. it is important that the bend is always kept pointing up when the rod is being flashed into the flame. if it is not, the flame will deform it. just keep flashing it into the fire and curling it around and it will look like this. cut the end at an angle so that it can be glued in a full circle. then using zap-a-gap, fill in the gap (after the styrene glue dries). sanding stick smooth all surfaces. this will be the exhaust turbine housing. so we need to build the exhaust manifold flange, exhaust down pipe flange and bearing housing. start with the exhaust down pipe flange. i take a piece of sprue and file a slight taper on one end and glue it in one side. sorry for the crappy picture, a couple of bad ones here. then i used .040" square styrene and made three tread bosses to mount around the down pipe flange. again, sorry for the picture.

will do Randy. yeah. that is exactly what i thought, one company. paid $377 to my door. i have a testors/aztec that worked pretty good. than the trigger assembly broke from the plunger. no replacement part. piece of junk plastic. so my major concern was first, all metal, second, pistol grip and trigger (like my full size paint guns), third, decent price. this guy fit all three. a plus, it feels very quality. i took it apart and everything was right. the action is very smooth. the parts are all polished and chromed. even the threads are finished, polished and chromed and thread very easily. again, if it sprays as good as it looks, perfect.

sure chris. 1/8 hp piston compressor 115v / 60 hz / 0.96 A 1700 rpm 60 psi max pressure RoHS compliant: //RoHS, also known as Lead-Free, stands for Restriction of Hazardous Substances. RoHS, also known as Directive 2002/95/EC, originated in the European Union and restricts the use of six hazardous materials found in electrical and electronic products. All applicable products in the EU market after July 1, 2006 must pass RoHS compliance. RoHS impacts the entire electronics industry. The substances restricted under the RoHS directive include lead (Pb), mercury (Hg), cadmium (Cd), hexavalent chromium (CrVI), polybrominated biphenyls (PBB) and polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDE).// running, this thing is very quiet. compact. the handle slides down into the housing to get out of the way. another plus for me is the very flexible power cable: unlike the stiff cables, this one wraps around the compressor easily for storage. i will let you know how it goes next week. hope this helps.

i mentioned in my '34 semi WIP thread, that i ordered a new grex airbrush kit. well i received it this past monday. due to the severe freeze going on in texas, i have not been able to try it out. so i thought i would post some pictures anyway. visually, i am very impressed. everything just looks perfect. if it works as good as it looks, i will be in heaven, yee-haw. two different size gravity-feed cups and a large glass siphon feed cup. with the kit you get this quiet little compressor with regulator/water trap installed. the "gun" fits very well in the hand. tomorrow i will be going over to a friend's house, he has a complete model building studio in his back yard (read heated), and give this little baby a work out. i will let you know how it goes. later

hey buddy. i really like that Penna style. very clean and you even use the stock blaupunkt radio. as usual, this is goung to be another killer build from the Kern workbench.

man, i love this forum; it is like an interactive magazine! thanks for the love guys. yeah, it is a little long: a result of my imagineering. but if you look at the picture below, you can see that once the pulleys/accessories, fan, radiator and grill shell are in place, it should leave the shock mount crossmember just in front of the grill shell. my new grex airbrush has shipped but will not be here until monday. then i will get the frame in one color. wishing every modeller a very happy and prosperous new year!

nice start on your little "mod-rod" there, billy. looks like it will be a lot of fun building. if room is tight for a motor, think about the little 4.5 liter Ford V6 from the ASA Thunderbird. there is a little powerhouse.

cool. a really nice start on cool car. the '32 tudor sedan is the best looking body from ford. IMHO. my suggestion is a little different. since the motor is so low, front mount blower, i would suggest a 3 inch section and a 2 inch chop. then tall 16 inch slicks on halibrands. just a thought. keep us posted.

chris - i will not be running dual stacks; however, i think i will run a single 6 inch. i also want to run the air filter canister on the driver side, front cowl. those should give it a good semi look. joe - i can hardly wait for my new airbrush. i went ahead and got the complete grex kit, compressor and everything. looking forward to the pistol grip. well the battery is charged so here are pics of the turbo. i need to powder coat it, to give it that rough cast look, then build the impeller housing. the housing starts with a slowly stretched piece of sprue, like in the background. see, the motor looks a lot better at this distance/scale. [ the fifth wheel is ready, just need to add grease. ahhhhh. really coming together.

WOW guys, cool words of encouragement! jon - the bolt heads are from scale motorsports. p/n 8117; nuts, bolts, washers,dzus and phillipshead fasteners. awesome stuff. no frets. indivdually pop each one from the rubber sheet. super glue in place. could not get any easier. i just got the exhaust housing of the turbo done. my camera battery just died so i cannot post a picture. think i should do a how-to thread for the turbo. again, vielen dank.

well, i was able to get the basic Navistar done today. not a 100% accurate representation, i had to take a few liberties, but it looks close enough. what do you guys think? i still need to build the turbo and manifolds, fuel pump, oil pump, pulleys and wiring harness. i decided to use a remanufactured motor, so i painted the whole thing semi gloss black with some markings. boy, digital close-ups really emphasize the imperfections. let me know what you think.

thanks guys for the kind words. i will keep you guys posted. yeah cb, i can't wait to see the hauler either. i want to build a rounded front short box modified with an open slant back drive up ramp. the front part of the trailer will be a small tool/work room. i will use corregated plastic for the sides. i will try to maintain that 30s look. again thanks.

that is super cool terry. love that GTO. herb adam's test bed for the 1g A-body. i will be watching this one. keep us posted.

since the site is new and improved, thought i would post something new. this coming March will be the Lonestar Showdown. i promised myself to have three new models built for it. i have two that are real close to being done; however, i still needed one more. thanks to treehugger's posting of the classic auto transporters, i knew i needed to build one for my time attack '31. i already had the Lindberg '34 cab so, i decided that would be the start of my rig. i wanted a hot rod look and feel with the functionality of a real semi. z'd the frame to get the cab down low and stretched it to get that rod look. for power, i decided i would need something with serious grunt. i am converting a 351W into a turbo'd powerstroke diesel. that should haul the load. so far, everything except the axles, wheels, leaf springs, cab, block and heads, i have made from evergreen's wonderful assortment of styrene. still have not figured out a grill yet. leaning towards the front part of the '50 f-1 with custom lower. not quite sure, let me know what you think. think the fifth wheel turned out pretty cool. the color will be tamiya green zinc chromate with black roof and red pin stripe. my trusty aztec airbrush went south so i ordered a new grex vt today. hope to have it next week. then i can finish painting the chassis. let me know what you think.

doing just fine nick. thanks for asking. yeah, i think so, in that beautiful matra blue. hey jody, what do you mean except Fiats? these sound just fine to me.

good ones nick. i am convinced that the best musical instrument, on the planet, is the internal combustion engine. single cylinder or 18, each produces its own unique symphony. here is almost 11 minutes of stereophonic bliss from Spa.

first, welcome to the forum. i really like your silverado. you have a great start on a really cool ride. love the BBSs on there. keep us posted.