fordsixty

hey brian, let me start out by saying, flaring fenders is difficult at best, regardless of body style. tons of differnt styles and a lot of different ways to make them. jon's example on his '71 mustang is excellent. as far as your nomad, you did an ok job: considering it is your first attempt. as jairus said, it would help greatly if we could see the car on the chassis with the wheels in place. now that this one is out of the way, you can critique it and decide what you liked and what you will do different on the next one. with each successive build you will only get better and develope your own style. it is really a very cool journey. now my take on fender flares. first and foremost, they must be functional. they should provide the room and coverage of the wheel and tires that you will be using. once you have that figured out, you can decide on the style that you want to use and the style that you want to incorporate in your build. i would suggest searching google or bing for photos of the style of fender flare you want to use. once you have your reference, it is on to what materials you will use. i use only evergreen plastic and evercoat bondo. you can also use brass, aluminum, solder and even fender or fender flares from another kit. open up the fenders with a little excess clearance for you tires. i basically just cut and carefully fit small pieces of plastic to the fender to form the arch. then cap the edge with round rod. file and sand to basic shape and finish off with evercoat. again, it takes practice just like anything else. hope this helps brian and don't stop being creative. models were made for that purpose. each kit is a clean canvas. not to hijack the thread, but here is my current project. it is going to be a japanese prepared d1 drift car. umm you can see it is a 1957 chevy. i have got to find this rule book that says you don't put fender flares on a '57 chevy.

Marcos, you have built the best looking 1/25th scale Vega i have ever seen. GREAT JOB. keep'em coming.

hey dave beautiful design exercise. it is a bugatti stratos.

i am also not sure about this one. it just does not look that typical well thought out, kick butt look ( so typical of Japanese Super GT cars ). to me the wheels and tires are too small and the fenders too open. the exhaust out the front bumper is wierd; more import drag. the color has me thinking mercedes DTM without the attitude. i am with dave, i am still waiting for the Cusco subaru like this one. come on Tamiya, make a new, non-Nissan race car.

jason, that is a very nice mustang. you did a great job with it. it captures the 80s look really well. i think the yellow stripe really pulls it together and gives it some snap. that is what the 80s were about. remember neon? question: i have never bought this kit, did it come with the convertible x-brace? nice job.

, hey Dave The stripe was 3M royal blue tape. the scoop should be the same color. Hope this helps.

hey, glad i could help. mike, here is the site, http://www.scaleautosport.com/tx/SebringHSR307/index.html the guy has a very large selection of reference material. check out the greenwood/b.f. goodrich corvette. awesome stuff.

hey morning chris. just thought i would try and help you out. i found these. i know they are of the Hot Wheels camaro but they should be close to the same. sorry, but i could not find any of the rear of the driver's compartment. hope these help.

you are correct dale. someone needs to offer these for us to build. i would love to build the fiesta, even tho it is a four door, i fell in love with the Escudo in gran turismo 2. awesome car with 11oo+ horsepower. it was the best car of the game.

hey ryan, that is a really nice start with a cool idea. WIDER IS BETTER! as soon as i saw the side shot of your mustang, it reminded me of this little jewel. i know it is not a mustang but the idea is there. a really cool camaro. i like the idea of the removeable rear section. it will just depend on what type of fender flare you use.

hey, do not mean to nitpic; however, those are Fenton Sharks. when you mentioned Fenton, that reminded me of a buddy in high school. he had a '70 maverick grabber with Fenton Super Sharks on it. i thought those were the Sharks, just had to find a picture. these are 14 x 7 reverses. the ones on the 'cuda are standards. i think you could use a set of Cragar S/Ss and flatten the spokes with a dremel. then use .005 x.005 strips, glued in place, for the raised portion of the spokes. a little sanding, then paint with Alcad. just a thought.

hey nick, very good reasons to move to europe. road racing is taken very seriously over there. here is another reason. thought you might like it.

scott! let me know when you are planning the shakedown runs, for this little gem, at the salt flats. i will meet you there. awesome scratchbuilding, buddy.

ok, imagine this. government motors builds 100,000 Volts and sells only 15,000. the powers that be, up on the Hill, decide to have a sale. buy a Volt and get a $10,000.00 tax credit. oh the possibilities are endless.

huh? the loans to GM and chrysler, if they ever get paid back, will produce a profit. since the government is using my present and future money, i should see that profit in my bank account. now here is my problem. since i now have an investment in GM and chrysler, that means i am forced to purchase a product from these new government controlled businesses in order ensure their success. ford and the other auto manufactures be damned. over my dead body. i have already bought a new ford and will buy another when the time comes. typical government intervention. those that cannot pay, produce or perform are given all kinds of help and advantages from the treasury. those that play by the rules are told to suck it up and suffer. "Were we directed from Washington when to sow and when to reap, we should soon want bread." --Thomas Jefferson

welcome to the NEW Government Motors. it is a sad state of affairs. buy a FORD before it is too late.

well, my 2 cents. (with the weak dollar, that is about .003 cents.) i do not really care what government motors designs, i want to see them fail. yes, fall off the face of the planet. the pieces of the defunct company could then be picked up by private, automotive minded business enterprise. they could then start designing and building cars meant for the public. the public would then respond by shelling out their hard earned bucks for what they like. if the public did not like it, get rid of it. do not just throw some more plastic on it, change the name and try and convince us it is a new car. ( good bye pontiac, the damage had already been done. ) currently, i think we should be supporting the only free market owned automotive company: FORD. i think alan mullaly called it right; leave that government money alone. there was too many strings attached. good on you alan. harry, recently i saw that you bought a new mustang, nice. my mother just bought a new mercury and i recently picked up a new fusion SAP. i can tell you they are both excellent cars. design, fit and finish, feel of the materials, paint and overall performance are great. ( remember: have you driven a ford lately? ) as harry pointed out, if your company cannot compete, see ya.

GO NICK GO

simply amazing attention to detail chris. wonderful work. ...and bravo sir. that is what a dual feed fuel rail should look like. adds more to the realism. thanks for the updates. i will be following this build: hopefully it will not be put away for too long.

this is my idea of a cool duck ( 2CV ). nurburgring 1997. or these ducks battling at Spa. ducks are cool!

hey foxer, i just measured my sanding drums and the large ones are .550" and the small ones are .325". not much different; however, could make a huge difference.

sorry to hear about your problem. this should help. a dremel with the larger sand paper roll. the small one would divet the tire too easily. start with high speed to remove the most material and lower speed to finish the size to fit i have done this several times with great success. hope this helps. dale

ahhhh..... newbies. brandon, brandon. i am truly humbled that you would want to duplicate my efforts. out of this world cool. i started with the revell 1931 model A, tudor sedan; using the body, fenders, doors, hood and grill shell. i used the belly pan from revell's C6R, with some body pieces ( hood louvers, NACA duct and front fender corners ) from tamiya's nissan R89C. since it was going to be a slammer, i did not worry about suspension or frame. wheels ( from the parts box ) were just glued to the inner fenders. widened the rear fenders 1/2" and the fronts 3/8". added the nissan front fender corners then filled in the inside corners, with .100" x .040" flat strips, in a curve. finished off with eurosoft. scratchbuilt the running board/side pods and added the NACA duct. i wanted the body to have that wedge look but the hood parallel to the ground. cut the windshield/cowl from the roof and repositioned. had to modify the doors to fit. scratched the cage, dash, firewall and interior tub. the most enjoyable part of the build was the motor. what a little gem. hope this helps. let me know if you need any help or parts. i will do my best to accomadate. thanks dale

hey brandon. i built the '31, what do you need buddy? ...and thanks dave, for the compliment.

no fox, their mother is a german. i was stationed in germany, with the Air Force, for 13 years and 6 years with the DoD. they were born and raised there. they both recently applied for and received their American passports, though. woo hoo. the old hockenheim track was alot better; out in the wald. went to a couple of formula 1 races there. also enjoyed the drag racing there and more recently, the drifting. good stuff. running the 'ring is still the best. prost.