The Creative Explorer

Did the april issue came out already? I haven't even seen the march issue came by...I am puzzled, since the january issue is still on the homepage.

Do you have pictures?

Let me know if I can help, shipping to canada is less than 5 bucks, well-packed!. So, if you need me to be a 'distribution-point', let me know and we work through the details. Charging 40 bucks for a couple of decals is just complete ridiculous.

I was just thinking about this project, good to hear the snowball is rolling again

for that money you should be able to find either a new one or partially built.

Hahaha, 'Graag gedaan!' (you're welcome!) Isn't it funny how things go sometimes? I am glad to hear you filled your 22-yr quest!

I have that kit too, after a long search for one with the right price. It is a very simple kit, but then again: the body is very actual and looks quite good. I have serious plans for this little kit,

I did not know about the Protar, but knowing RoG's and Italeri's history, I am not going to be suprised if the Italeri F40 is the old Protar F40. The Revell F40 is newer, better and less detailed. I also didn't know about the Fujimi 1/12, but since it is diecast, I wouldn't have taken it into the equasion, since it is a diecast-kit. If it would've been, then the Semi-Diecast Tamiya Enzo needs to join to, which is/was 200$ cheaper MSRP and basically the same kit, with a few differences. But I think we will never be able to settle this discussion haha. Like said before, it is a personal thing. For me, the Enzo doesn't have the value it should. I believe it should be 100$ less. Therefore, I will not buy it. No biggie, I have more than enough big scale kits to survive me, till I am dead, if I build 1 per year. Good thing we're all diverse, makes modelling a whole lot more interesting haha.

That is why I said: different subject. ;-). I know it is not in comparising I bought the TR in '07. But truth be told it was a complete, but started kit. The Mercedes was bought less than 3 weeks ago, new & unbuilt. It even had the metal wirewheels. @Chuck; best is to compare the Enzo with the Revell Mustang. They are both brand-new toolings. Enzo: 300 $ Mustang: 40 $ Yes, the Mustang is a whole lot less detailled, Yes, the Mustang is crude in some aspects. But The Mustang is a brand-new car and it cost almost 8 times less! But, where my point leads to: a 1/24 Mustang from Revell is about 20 dollars, a 1/24 Tamiya Enzo around 50-60. That is less then 3 times more expensive. 2 notes to your previous post: Revell and Italeri had the 1/12 F40, Fujimi had a 1/16. And the Pochers were not prepainted, except for TR and F40, the classic-line wasn't diecast or prepainted.

The truck is from the fiftie's, this is one is one of the first new designed trucks produced in Germany. It had 2 3 cilinder 2-stroke engines fused together.

I'm sorry, but I still don't see the 300/600 dollar value of this kit. It might be nice, but next to be a little to late (the succesor of the Enzo will be anounced next year) it should have way more detail than I can see on the pictures. Even tough the other Tamiya 1/12 kits are quite old, they have a similar level of detail. Take for example the Porsche 934 or 935. True, it doesn't come with white-metal, but it comes with PE and cost half of the Enzo. Different subject: but where do you pay 1500 for a Pocher? I bought my Testarossa for 75 and my Mercedes for 350-ish. And the Mercedes has 2600 parts, although not as good engineered as a Tamiya (<----Understatement!)

I've been at Revell Germany and they now do it differently, they take the car, paint it in a flat paint (I forgot the color, but believe white) and put it in a laser machine, which will make thousands of scans, which turns it into a 3d model and they continue from there. They even do it with the SLS and R8, ofcourse, they can rinse of the paint

Yes, fortunately we have such feature. Click on your settings-menu on the top right of this website, click manage ignore prefs and add the username you want to block.

After I put on the second color (Aston Martin Berwick Bronse), it looks like this: I am content with it, it does have some sort of premium look to it.

After some busy time at the racetrack, I managed to work on the Krupp again. I finally thought of a nice colorscheme and work started on the bodywork. As with everything, I started with putting the bodywork in primer. I had to alter the roof a little bit, I glued the overheadcabinets in, since that part will stick out the cabin. This way I can fill the seem and shoot it in bodycolor. And the first color (Ferrari's Rubino Micalizzato) on the bodywork.

Don't invest too much in a fake Mercedes, Mercedes started a wichhunt:

Keith, Thank you for sharing those pictures! I hope I am not being rude, but I find the contents a bit dissapointing. I would've thought Tamiya would give the car some more detail, but it seems hardly more than the 1/24 and not really justifying the high price.

The exact paint can be bought from Zero paints.

Mike, I always will advise a double-action airbrush, with one exception: beginners. A double-action is difficult to work with if you don't know the basics. Even though it would cost a few more bucks in the beginning, it is a better road to go. Think about feeding air, paint, cleaning etc... The chance of succes is in the beginning quite small and makes it demotivating to continue. @Noah; I would go for the singleaction to start with, after you covered the basics go for a double action. it will offer you a smoother learning curve.

Noah, with airbrushing, the key is not to go too fast, take a step at a time. When you take your time, your results will be a lot better in the end. Start with something like this: This is the European version, but I know Testors and Revell has something similar over there, should cost around 15 dollars. Instead of a compressor, go for a pressure-can, which will last a couple of cars and is a cheap alternative to a compressor. When going for a compressor, never buy a membrane compressor, but a piston-compressor with tank! Even though the last can be expensive for a good one, they last a life-time. Again: don't go the short way and go cheap. I have used several kinds, and some of them where the knock-offs, but there is such a world of difference between the knockoffs and the real deal, that it is worth a couple of dollars more. Again; the good ones last a life-time and it is a long-term investment. about the colors, take it slow here as well, go for one color and start practising with the body. Just brush the different engine and interior parts, because they are smaller, it is easier to get away with that.

For a starter I would recommend a starter airbrush, single action. They cost around 10 bucks, add a aircan for about 10 bucks, some paint for 2-3 dollars and some primer for 2-3 dollars and you can start learn to airbrush. When you are getting confident and saved some money, go for a decent brand double-action (gravity-feed) airbrush with a compressor. Should cost you less than 200 to start. There are some generic airbrushes and they give mixed results plus expensive, hard to get replacement parts.

Not always, I've seen people make a flawless paintjob with brushes, I can't do it and I rather have the airbrush. @Noah; Go for a airbrush. Even with the smallest budget, you can airbrush. A starter airbrush goes for 10 bucks, and paint is readibly available for the airbrush. The results are way better and easier than a brush and rattle can! (even though people using a rattle can will disagree, it is visible). Plus overall a airbrush is after the first investment of the material a very cheap way to paint a model.

It can also be a Isuzu, which has the windscreen shape I was looking for

For the red one, I think it is Japanese, leaning on a Datsun or Mazda. It is definatelly not a VW Caddy, it is too high and too big for that one.

ebay, craigslist, hobbytown usa, modelroundup, amazon, towerhobbies, HLJ...... Do a search on google and you'll find many options.