Jon Cole

Does the kit have one-piece glass (front & rear as one?) If so, that may help put upward pressure on the roof. Do a test fit with the glass and maybe that will help.. hope so. -Jon-

...on a '40 Ford Coupe (or similar car) die-cast from the Danbury or Franklin Mints. I have searched for just the right 1:1 reference photo; what I have found so far is poorly lit etc. I own a few "Mints" and they appear to be well detailed for placement of all lines and cables. So if someone would be able to click a pic of the '40 Ford chassis, I would really appreciate it! Thanks! -Jon-

Raul- Whatever you choose for rolling stock, it's gonna rock! Nice color too!

I finally got my first mock-up look today of my Lindberg '40 Ford. I was hoping for brighter wheels (Testors Italian Red Acrylic, airbrushed) and more contrast between the wheels and the body color (Testors Lacquer 'Honduras Red') Last night I hosed down the body with a second can of TS-13 Clear, as the finish on my first clearcoat wasn't very good, lots of wet-sanding. Still will need to be wet sanded, but not as much.

I have The Detailer Black. To my eyes, it seems to dry with a bluish hue, especially on chrome. Also seems to peel off somewhat easily when dry. I would suggest thinning down any brand of acrylic paint, and using that instead. Maybe someone else here could recommend if water or Iso Alcohol is the best way to go for thinning it down for a wash, and a mix ratio. I have also heard of builders using thinned-down India Ink for the same purpose Let us know how it goes.

Honestly, the best attitude to take is to like them all. That's why I proudly wear the title "CAR SLUT"!!! Any model car or truck! I want to see them all! I can learn something from each one of them! Too many forums here tho... I don't have the time to look at each (I'll work harder at it) Build what you want, and keep them coming! And if you REALLY want to support the hobby, then go to a forum you normally wouldn't, and leave some positive comments (when due). Signed, Spyder, the Car Slut!

It happens! CHEVY Police cruisers, (ca. 1956) ANN ARBOR PD. ONLINE PHOTO TAG... 1956? Looks like the AAPD doesn't know automobiles very well.

How do I post a photo here from a paid Fotki account? Thanks!

It sounds easy, but the lug nuts on my models usually look like crapola! I suppose I could go with photo-etch bolt heads, but... isn't there anything better? Maybe an actual bolt & stud? Doesn't have to be functional. Any ideas? Thanks. -Jon-

First, a Happy New Year to all! I need to glue some Plastruct to styrene, but I don't have any Tenax glue. What are my other options? Thanks!

It looks like the one that Art Anderson of All American Models used to offer. It was available in either stock wheelbase (shown), or full stretch. AAM is now defunct.

Everyone seems to like BMF, but hate their black BMF. So... why not just steel wool some Chrome BMF, and spray it black? I have done this with great results.

Just so we're clear on this, I never said the parts are resin. You folks have been very helpful however. I plan on trying the purple pond, and if that doesn't work, I'll buy some Easy Off. Again, thanks!

...for something to replicate the stock fabric spark plug wires like they used on the '20s and '30s flatheads? Thanks. Spyder

The closest I know of is the 1950 Lincoln Cosmopolitan Presidential Limousine die-cast by Yat Ming. I would attach a photo of one, but I haven't figured that out yet how to do that.

How to strip airbrushed acrylic Testors? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Do I need to use a special primer under acrylic paint, such as Tamiya bottle paint or even Model Master Acrylic?

This looks like a great place to get advice. Good thing, too, as I could use some help. I want to airbrush some Testors Model Master acrylic paint. Do I need to use a primer first? If so, which primer? Thanks! Spyder