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Jon Cole

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Everything posted by Jon Cole

  1. Me'es thinks it... -MAY- be a model. Maybe. Model; that's my final answer. I think.
  2. Me'es thinks it... -MAY- be a model. Maybe. Model; that's my final answer. I think.
  3. Maybe this thread would be a good place to show any model Hummers or Humvee's we built? The only Hummer that I ever liked is the H1. The Vee's are bad also! Here is one that I built as a tribute to my dad, who was co-founder of a volunteer CB radio group who assisted local law enforcement and rescue staff when called upon, mostly for traffic control. No, they never had one of these, but I know he would have liked it. I built the cap, the grill guard, and the front skid plate out of either Evergreen or Plastruct I did the graphics on adhesive- backed colored labels, reversing out the letters by coloring around the letter(s) with a Sharpie marker. Crude, but it was all I had at the time. Mirrors were also scratch-built, and can be swung inward. I wish there was a more detailed chassis available for the Hummer H1.
  4. Here is a 2CV that ran @ Pikes Peak: . I think it's the "Tickle Me Elmo" of race cars.
  5. I would like to see this one when it's finished!
  6. Hey B67, I like your design better than mine, which is similar. With my stand, I need to tape the body to the wire with masking tape. I cut off the tip of the "hook", and spread the two sides like they were feet. Then I use a small Vise-Grip to form a tripod. mine is crude but functional. When I find another wire hanger, I will make one like yours! But... do they still make wire hangers?
  7. Go down to "New Kit Reviews" to see the goods!
  8. You don't need a Spotlight to see what's coming from Revell! Here they are...
  9. I don't think I have the scan you are looking for, but I do have a Fotki album for model box art, listed alphabeticaly. Check here: http://public.fotki.com/JCole/model_box_art/page20.html -Jon-
  10. Business wise, it has to be. But it still sucks. GM had too many branches, combined with arrogance that they were too big to ever fail. Bummer. -Jon-
  11. AFAIK, all the Tamiya sprays are lacquer. They are designed to be used with their lacquer paints. They cannot be enamel, because applying Tamiya spray colors over an enamel primer would be a disaster. Lacquer is chemically 'hotter' than enamel, and would attack the surface underneith. So buy the Tamiya Primer without concern!
  12. The doors have been closed now for at least 24 hours... where are the pics? I saw plenty of camers there... how about sharing! "Don't Bogart that link, my friend... Pass it over to me" http://public.fotki.com/JCole/model_car_shows/nnl-east-2009/
  13. Marshall, it's good to follow doctors orders, but have you considered just quitting detailed models, and just try something simple? In 2003, I had Carpal Tunnel surgery to my wrist. I was out of commission for six weeks During that time, I built a pre-painted '57 Chevy, the one from Revell: I even did a plate to remember the reason I built it: So hang in there! -Jon-
  14. I hope this link works I used Tamiya Racing White right out of the can, and Testors MM Blue Angel Blue, airbrushed I don't recall if I posted a link to my build process pics: http://public.fotki.com/JCole/my_model_car...gt40-by-revell/
  15. Your Testa Rossa came out great! Real sharp! -Jon-
  16. Finally completed my first for the year! It's not an exact replica, just inspired by the 1964 prototype. It was built from the Revell/Aurora reissue. Lots of re-shaping (like the side windows) and some scratch-built parts. See you at the NNL East!
  17. A good color of black no herd of bottle paints should be without is Testors 'Aircraft Interior Black'. It has a slight gray tint to it. Where you use it on a car is up to you.
  18. Time to buy some tires!
  19. I am considering a windshield tint band using Tamiya Smoke. I don’t want a solid lower edge, but a “blend†like on factory stock cars. Will the paint edge look dry? Will I need to clear the entire inside of the windshield?
  20. Jon Cole

    32 Highboy

    Sharp!!!
  21. About scale convertible up-tops, I recall about a decade ago (give or take a few years) a company, possibly Brookfield Collectors Guild, did a convertible Chrysler Sebring with a working convertible top. I remember looking at it in the box, and being rather unimpressed. It's difficult to get a fabric to cooperate, and look 'in-scale'. I like the '66 Mustang up-top idea. I also recall years ago, one of the two following resin dealers, F&F, or R&R (I always get them mixed up) used to sell many different resin up-tops. I don't know what is currently available. Something I have always wanted to try, is to build a static version of what Bill did with his '64 GTO. For my tastes, I would use a mix of plastic square rods (PlastiStruct), and aluminum (K&S) to build the shape. I would 'skin' that with either wide masking tape (don't forget the seams!) or even use facial tissues glued taunt and then coated with a thinned mix of water & white glue. BTW, the "water & white glue" idea is a good way to give any molded up-top a nice texture. -Jon-
  22. How long of a process is dehydrating the primer? It's been an on again, off again process now well into it's second day. Problem is, I don't want to leave it running when I leave the house, and no one is home or when we are sleeping. So I turned it off last night. Started it back up this morning, and I think I can leave it run all day. I think it had about four hours in there when I turned it off last night. This morning, the PlastiKote primer still felt slightly sticky, and I could still catch a whiff of the paint. This weekend, I want to paint all 4 body sections (Ford GT40)
  23. I like the new Stang! Is that the Shelby? I think that big honkin' vent on the hood may be Shelby (correct me if wrong). What I want, is what I see every day when I drive by my local Dodge dealer... ...except the one at the lot is a 2009 R/T. I want one soooo much! But that would require a real job
  24. I've tried it to tint windows, but I wasn't impressed. Use an old sauce pan. Mix the dye into the water. Bring it up to a rolling boil. Turn off the burner, and then lower the part into the pan in a wire basket. Leave it there for about three minutes. As long as the water is not at or above boiling, it should be OK. I forget which mag I read this in. My first attempt barely tinted the windows, but no warpage. Suggest using a double batch of dye (use both bags in the Rit Dye box) Oh, and if you spill any dye on your wife’s stove, don't say I didn't warn you! (TIP: Use side burner on outdoor gas grill, over the lawn)
  25. How do you 'dehydrate' a model that has masking tape on it? Do I need to wait for the lacquer spray to cure enough so I remove the tape before baking it? I built my voltage regulator, and I got the temp down to 105º to 110º inside. I placed the 'upper greenhouse' to a Ford GT40 in it for about 20 minutes. It did come out with the sides slightly outward. It is not a warp, I don't think, as it will still fit just fine when I glue it down. I just don't feel comfortable putting anything else in there. That was just for the primer, BTW. I have yet to spray the Tamiya. Is masking tape not a good idea in a dehydrator? Thanks -Jon-
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