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Everything posted by Jon Cole
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Trumpeter GT 40
Jon Cole replied to purplehornies's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
This model puzzles me. It has been mentioned on some message boards in the last few years that Trumpeter didn't do as well as they hoped for with the sales of their 1/25 scale car offerings, in part due to their complexity (in spite of many modelers asking for just that), but also for some inaccuracies in those offerings, plus the price of those kits. So the general concensus was, they (Trumpeter) must have thrown in the towel on ever pleasing (and therefore sales to) the adult model car market. Now, instead of making more "typical" and less complex model cars, they seem to go in the opposite direction, with this "Mega-Kit". I love Ford GT40's (in fact, I have one on my bench now), but like many other posts here, I just cannot justify the price of the 1/12 kit. I am NOT saying it's not worth it, I am saying it's out of my price league. And I think the price will hurt sales. So, if... that's the case, won't that just lead Trumpeter back to the same conclusion as they (apparently) had with their 1/25 scale line of kits? -Jon- -
The back of the rotary switch has NO screws- just three wires: The back of the two outlet has 5 screws- two gold, two silver, and one green, which I know is for ground. Tell me how to wire the the three wires on the rotary switch, and I think I can get it! Thanks, -Jon-
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Well, I showed 'hardware dude' the photo of the home-made voltage regulator to control the dehydrator: And this is what he sold me: He explained how to wire it... BEFORE he got the rotating switch. So then he started over, but that threw me... I was in "D'uh?" mode from there on. OK, I know the plug wire goes to the rotary switch, and from the switch to the plug. I also know I have to run a ground wire from everything, to the box. Can someone look at the pic, and tell me how the cord (one each: green; white; and black wire) connects to the rotary switch (black wire exits from one side; black, and a green wire exits from the other side)? He said the plug unit has colored screws; green; chrome; and gold. Also, with electrical wiring in general, what does the color coding for green, white, and black stand for? Thanks. Oh, BTW, all this cost more than my dehydrator did! -Jon-
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Let's see if I can at least get this post in line with the rest. Tho I didn't take the pic of the '39 Lincoln "Sunshine Special", it's a beautiful die-cast of FDR's Limousine. I have all 9 Presidential Limos currently available from Yat Ming. The following is my photo of the re-bodied '61 Lincoln X-100 refurbished for LBJ after the Kennedy Assassination. This car was originall painted the same dark blue metallic that Kennedy's car was, but Johnson wouldn't accept it, so it was again repainted black. -Jon-
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CRS has struck again. Tho I have painted a few models with Tamiya white, I cannot for the life of me remember if I clearcoated them. Do I need to clear over Tamiya white? -Jon-
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That is, if I can find a "volage" regulator! Maybe I can find a "voltage" reg. instead. -Jon-
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Now that's what I need! I'll zip on over to the hardware store and start my own volage reg! Thanks! -Jon-
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Hi everyone Hey, I finally set up the dehydrator that I bought a few years back. I often hear that for curing paint, it should be set at about 105º f So I plugged it in, and set the food thermometer in the large coin sized hole in the center of the cover. About twenty minutes later when I checked on it, it was up to.... 148º YIKES! I want to cure the paint, not melt it! So what do I do? Drill a thousand + holes in the lid? Maybe I could just get the shotgun and blast the cover with birdshot? Seriously, I need to cure some primer. Should I vent the lid? Maybe the sides too? It has the stackable shelves. So far I have cut the 'floor' out of one ring only, I may need to cut a second ring from it's 'floor' to get enough clearance for the parts. This one has no temp. adjustment. Hope someone can advise on this. Thanks. -Jon-
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Whoopie Kat Decals
Jon Cole replied to RodBurNeR's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Well, I am trying to put together an order with a friend, so we can save a little $$$ on shipping. But now what I don't understand here, is you say he prints them as ordered, never anything in stock. And now his printer is broken. If he has no inventory, but you are saying we should order from him to help him out... why? His ALPS printer is broke, and he has nothing to ship. So that apparently means that he cannot possibly fufill any order I send in, yes? Maybe he needs to make a business decision, and find a way to get the printer back. Once he gets the printer back, and up and running, then he should make a promotional push, get the word out, such as right here and on other message boards (Like on Spotlight... they LOVE advertising!) You and him can then do some shameless self-promotion! I hope he can make a go of it, and earn some $$$ at the same time. Good luck, and all the best. -Jon- -
Painting white on a white molded kit
Jon Cole replied to FujimiLover's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Funny you should mention red oxide primer, topcoated with red paint! I just did that on my last build, and boy was I disappointed! Fortunately, it was just the wheels on my model that came out wrong, but I was counting on a bright red for contrast. The red oxide primer will indeed darken the red topcoat. I should have used light gray or white primer. Both will treat your topcoat much kinder that red oxide will. With red lacquer, it is common to depend on a good quality clearcoat to get a gloss. For a rattle-can, I would recommend whatever brand lacquer red paint you used. I guess that's not 'carved in stone' however. I think others need to chime in on that one. Just remember, the gloss is not in the can of red paint, you must apply it after the color coats. Just like in the 1:1 auto body world, base coat / clear coat. -Jon- -
Painting white on a white molded kit
Jon Cole replied to FujimiLover's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
The reason the "clearcoat only" method looked toy-like, is you're still looking at colored plastic when you're done. You need to apply pigment- actual white paint. Avoid topcoating the white paint with an enamel based clear, it will turn yellow over time! I am building a Ford GT40 to be painted white, I will use Tamiya Racing White, and I hope to avoid clear in this particular case, but if I wanted to, I would use Tamiya clear, or one of the lacquer based clears from DupliColor. I find that Krylon is too chemically "hot" to use, but I know someone who uses Krylon exclusively Another reason to not just clearcoat white plastic- every model you build, no matter the color, should have the inside of the body painted flat black. My GT40 will have the inside of the flip up nose and rear deck in flat black. On a street car, this helps hide what is still visible around the edges and the gaps, and gives the model a more 'finished' look, in most cases. This is true especially in wheel wells etc. If the outside of the body had no paint, that 'black inside' would be obvious from the outside, depending how translucent the body is. -Jon- -
Actually, I did heat the can for about 4 to 5 minutes in warm to hot water, and I also shook the can. If I had to guess based on my own opinion as well as what I read here, I suspect the paint didn't shake up enough. But it sounds like in another day it should be fine. So, does this mean it's an enamel-based primer? Because the reason I bought white primer is I will be painting Tamiya Racing White. I hope they're compatible! On a related note, do any of you fellow "Olde Pharts" remember going with your dad to the hardware store to buy a gallon of paint, way back when? Remember how they always clamped the can in a shaker? I could use one now. I've been dealing with back aches, and shaking paint isn't high on my fun list these days.
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I bought Plasti-kote White Primer. I sprayed three coats. Is it normal for the paint to feel sticky a day later? -Jon-
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Shouldn't you wait at least until you actually have the kit in question in your hands, to complain about the scale? You post a 'scale' issue with the kit, and suddenly it starts to be taken as "fact". What's more disappointing for me, is the price. At over $20. it appears the new toolings are going to stay on the store shelves, unless it will be my next build. I used to buy kits even though I knew I wasn't going to build it right away, now I'm afraid that may no longer be the case, at least as far as new tooling is concerned. Unless the subject is a 'holy grail' then sadly I just cannot afford it.
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heads up for the new BMF
Jon Cole replied to LVZ2881's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yikes! I don't feel like I can put much faith in a product that just has a label that says "NEW!" stuck to it. What's to keep them from planting a sticky label on all the inventory they have, regardless of when it was made? They should have made an all-new envelope; where it wouldn't be cost effective to swap old product into a new package. And based on the customer service being reported here, that's not a very long stretch. -
I found these @ Michael's Crafts. What makes them different from MV is these are already in a chrome trim ring. Granted, you will have to trim off the two mounting tabs. These were meant for use by scrapbooks. Not perfect, but not bad either. I haven't tried them yet. -Jon-
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ModelMartin- If you are interested in doing the Craftsman Sawblade car, it was at my local Sears store on display back in (IIRC) 2003. I will post the link below to several pics I took. http://public.fotki.com/JCole/race_cars__trucks/page15.html Hope this helps! -Jon-
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Think I'm going to give PlastiKote (sp?) primer a try. I just called a regional auto parts dealer (Bond's Auto Parts) and they stock that brand. As soon as I can shovel a path to my Jeep, I'm going. -Jon-
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The bodywork has progressed to the first coats of Dupli-Color Gray Filler Primer to check for sand scratches, etc. Because the car will be painted in a white Tamiya spray, I need to know if Dupli-Color or Tamiya make a white primer? Thanks! -Jon-
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Will the paint affect the tires?
Jon Cole replied to Jon Cole's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Thank you for the responses. I would like to point out again that it is the plastic wheels, not the tires, that have the paint issue. Some of that paint rubbed off on the tire when I removed them from the rims. I still will seal the rims with an acrylic paint. Thank you both for the suggestions. -Jon- -
I am building the Aurora / Revell Ford GT that was re-issued several years ago. Going by photographs of the early prototype from England, I stripped the chrome plating off the wire wheels and painted them Testors Aluminum. Several weeks later while handling the wheels, I noticed the paint was not quite dry. In fact, I wiped the edge of the rim on paper towels, and some of the paint left a mark. I also had to use lacquer thinner to clean paint off the tires. The front of the wheels seem to be OK. Should I use some type of barrier between the wheels and the tires? Is this a preview of the melting tire issue? Thanks. -Jon-
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I mask large areas with Heavy Duty Household Aluminum Foil. It resists puncturing better then the cheap regular foil, it can be formed to wrap around the sub-assemblies, and you can use your favorite tape to secure it along the edge if you like. -Jon-