Jon Cole

Well, mine is as boring as it gets. I don't even remember if it's a Revell or an AMT. It was a pre-painted body, but I wet-sanded through one of the stripes, so I had to fix that. I added a vinyl top, and ARII wheels/tires I like it anyhow.

"A bud from another site is supplying the 53's from the herbie kit from polar lights, but they look like stickers to me, we'll see when they arrive." Sadly, those Lindberg "decals" are indeed stickers. They're OK in a pinch, but you may want to try FeeBay for decals.

I never bothered with the SA board. Actually, when I see reference to "the other" board, I thought it meant the Spotlight board.

I tried to print out standard headlights, but they just didn't look right. I think it can be done (obviously! The Ford pickup headlights up above look great!) but I need to experiment some more. If I had a better printer may help, and a higher DPI. The ones below were scanned from a picture of a cars front end. I wonder if a photo (close-up) of an actual headlight may look better? I too have also done the different colored washes over the chrome light. The only difference is I went around the inner edge of the trim ring with an fine tip drafting type pen. It gives the headlight some depth.

Just to emphasize... "Bondo" is a brand name, but most of us use it to mean a two-part body filler. The red stuff shown I believe is a one-part glazing putty. It was never meant as a filler; yet at "our" scale, we can get away with it. Just remember, two-part products cure by chemical reaction, where one-part glazes work by air cure, and tend to be slower to dry, and more prone to shrinkage and cracking as it is quite similar to a thick lacquer primer. When an auto bodyman uses the old school red filler, it is for sanding scratches, and to fill ultra-shallow low spots. These days, I think they use the two-part stuff, but you better check with a young'un. When I used to work in the shops, we puttied with one hand, and fought off the dinosaurs with the other. So I have been "officially" out of the biz for years. I haven't seen a common dino in decades, but I have seen a T-rex occasionally in my kitchen with curlers on it's head.

I finally bought the "Digger Cuda" when I got a 20% off coupon for the local toy & hobby store.

Do I need to prime before I spray Testors Metalizer? Or does it go over raw plastic? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Great plan for a build, Jim! Don't forget to fill in the headlights on the fenders, as the car depicted has decals ala 'funny car' style.

The kit is labeled as a '49 Mercury http://www.round2models.com/models/mpc Super Snap 1949 Mercury Police Patrol Car Item No: MPC705 Release Date: April 2009 Snap-together model kits are as popular as ever, and in 2009 MPC is reintroducing two exciting kits from their 1/25 scale “SUPER SNAP†series. They are easy, fast and fun to assemble and come molded in three colors plus chrome parts! Each kit builds into a very attractive and detailed finished model, with no paint or glue required. Perfect for young modelers and a relaxing project for seasoned adult modelers alike! The Super Snap 1949 Mercury features a custom “lowrider†stance with rear wheel covers cowl-mounted spotlights and groovy grille. The kit comes with optional parts and decals to create a cool Police Cruiser version! Molded in 3 colors plus chrome and clear parts. It’s Cruisin’! •Scale: 1/25 •Skill Level: 2 (ages 10 and up) •Snap assembly, no glue or paint required •Molded in black, tan and clear with chrome and water-release decals •Over 40 parts •Super smooth low rider police cruiser •Fun to assemble •Colorful police decal markings •Chrome wheels •Vintage MPC packaging

Seven pics.... NICE ! NICE ! NICE ! NICE ! NICE ! NICE ! NICE ! HEY! You do NICE work!

Len, I did a lot of research on any '64 Comet before I built mine, and while I don't have the answer you seek, maybe I can help with some reference photos, of which I have a lot. http://public.fotki.com/JCole/11_fomoco/11...coln/page5.html It starts at the bottom of the linked page, and goes into the following page. It's all arranged alphabetically.

Robert, I was going to explain it, but MonoPed did a perfect job, he does the same way I do! If you want that small venturi tube in the middle, try a small hypodermic needle *CAREFULLY* cutting away the tip before anything else.

Actually, I want to make this like a plastic kit as much as I can. The doors will be glued shut (I don't open the doors on plastic kits that have them), and the hood may be removable just like most plastic kits. Why for the life of me they think the hinges must be as large as scale 4"x4" timber just to make it so kids can play with it is silly. Kids break half of everything they touch anyhow; I wish the Testors would just avoid the entire hinge process if they don't want to scale them down to something more realistic. At these prices, can kids even afford them? I'm 52 and I can barely afford them! Oh oh... maybe I should saved that part for "Rants & Raves"?

Well, I just want to build something easy to keep my feet in the fire, until fall arrives when I can start other projects. I'm building a late-model Charger Daytona in Sublime. It's a plastic kit, but the body is pre-painted die-cast. Those big 'dog leg' hinges have to go! My moto tool took care of 'em, but the underside of the hood will need some filler. I sanded off the copyright info... Then I had to fill in the slots in the firewall for those clunky hinges. I used solder to replace the line sections that were missing. If I cannot get this to look right, I'll sand off the lines, and glue all new lines down (I should have done that to begin with!) I'll show more as it happens. I need to overcome a mental block of loading the airbrush to paint the inner fenders / engine bay, bottom of hood, and 'trim' the chassis edges.

You did a GREAT job on that 956! Now I want to start* working on mine! * (nothing here ever gets finished!)

Bob, GREAT job! Really makes me want to build mine! Is this a "researched" paint scheme? Or did you use artistic license with the decals? 24 hours! Wow!

As typical, you did an outstanding job Jeff! Does this have your trademark opening doors?

Real sharp!

Not a radical chop.... Some say "leave it as is" Others say "A slight chop" I'm leaning with the second op. I call it a "Two cut-off wheels in the moto tool" chop. No matter, she's gonna look sa-weet!

So now that the government has a (temporary) stake in GM, and we are the taxpayers, thus we have a vested interest in the success of GM... We're supposed to boycott them? And how is that good for America?

Looks nice, but it's not really "finished" until it gets some windows! Consider making some. There is clear flat and curved plastic all around us, as well sold in hobby shops. I think you need about a .010 thickness (don't quote me on that- I'm REAL bad with numbers) If you can get inside the body, just make a paper pattern, transfer it to the plastic, cut, and glue with clear epoxy or white glue. Tape it in place until the glue sets. Protect the clear surfaces from glue smudge by covering the open area with Post-It notes cut to size. Piece of cake!

Another source for window tint can be found in the R/C section of a well stocked hobby store. DAHM'S WINDOW TINT: It won't work on compound curved windows (unless you heat and stretch it?) it is a rather firm tinted clear plastic-type material, and quite sticky adhesive. It needs to be applied to the outside of the window. It's quite dark, but in the photo below, it seems light because of the white background

Bravo! Great looking LeMans racer!

Someone has to say it... "That will buff right out!"

DANG! I should have said the opposite answer on the second reply, thus a guarantee to get it right. Sorry 'bout the dbl. post