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Hollywood Jim

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Everything posted by Hollywood Jim

  1. Who needs that one when we have this one...... . . ..
  2. I can't judge the beauty of something until I see it's rear end. . .
  3. I love your work John.
  4. My gasser will have tinted windows. So, if you don't look really close, you'll miss him............... . . . .
  5. Thank you for the comments guys !!! . .
  6. YES ! It is very cool stuff. It works great for dioramas. Danno from this board built this lighted diner sign for our club diorama. . . . .
  7. Take toilet paper or one ply Kleenix. You have to find something with no pattern on it. Use flat enamel paint and apply it with that. Then when it is dry you can rip, tear and pull it up as you like. See how I did it here: http://www.rocketfin.com/hollywood-jim/48_woody_4.cfm . . . .
  8. Thank you !!! As far as the muffler goes, I'm trying to be as accurate as possible. These are the NHRA gasser rules from 1958. 1958 NHRA Rules for gassers: 3. Must have legal equipment required for operation on the street, including started & generator in good working order, & must be properly licensed for current year’s operation. Rear bumpers will be required in this division. Cars in this division must be started under own power. Fans & belts are optional. Radiator required. 4. Interiors may not be gutted. Must run full factory-type upholstery. Bucket seats (two) may replace front seats in coupes or two-door sedans, but be fully upholstered. 5. Must be equipped with mufflers suitable for street use. Headers with maximum of two head-pipes per car, will be permitted, but exhaust system shall be so constructed that mufflers remain on the car at all times. Header plugs or by-passes may be open during competition running. . . . .
  9. Here are some progress shots for my barn find gasser. I still have to touch up the paint and do some more weathering. . . . .
  10. What kind of car, stock, custom, hot rod, race, etc ????????? . ..
  11. Very cool garage. Great work !! Love that heating system !! . . .
  12. Oh wow, Thanks Tom, I did not know that. Just add some fine dirt and your good to go.......... . . .
  13. Here is what I did. I have some Grimy Black made by Floquil Railroad Colors. The color is perfect, except that it is oil based paint. I wanted acrylic based paint so I can modulate it after it is applied. After the acrylic grime is applied I used water and or alcohol to wash it off a little in certain areas to uncover the original engine color. So, I took acrylic craft store paint and mixed my own grime. I used Charcoal, Black, White and Gray and mixed them until I got the same color as the Floquil Grimy Black. I also added some fine sand and dust to the mix. The fine sand and dust really makes the grime look real. . . .
  14. Are you talking about the heads or the valve covers ? My guess is, the valve covers are not upside down. ( However, I seem to recall seeing the valves covers on Hemi's installed both ways. ) . .
  15. Here is the engine before. Here is the engine as found behind the barn. . . .
  16. Thanks Gluhead, I added some holes. . . . .
  17. Thank you for your comments. I got up this morning and I still like the look of my my rust. However, I think I want to slightly change the rust color of the chassis or the frame (floor board). Like crazyrichard said in his post comment. I don't think these two parts would rust exactly the same way, in the same exact color. What do you think ??? Which part should be more rusted ?????? Chassis: Frame: . . .
  18. I have been testing out some rust ideas on my “found behind the barn” 50 Olds Gasser. I think I have it where I want it. What do you think? . . .
  19. Beautiful work Brad !!!! . . .
  20. Cool Idea !!! . . .
  21. The engine is finished. Sort of. I painted it, but I'm going to weatherd it and make it dirty. A big thanks to Ace-Garageguy for his advice on the transmission. It is going to be all nasty and dirty kind of like this. . . . .
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