Marcus M. Jones

Old formula its worth even more now. you could go on you Caribbean vacation and get a Maserati... model.

not fake just a very misleading title by the producer

congrats Dave.

i got a idea for this. do it like you said with 11, 12 and 1 but instead of a baby car have a stroller with a baby human in it holding on to a steering wheel. the cars are like "WHOO HOO We have a new (or future) driver!"

this post reminded me of this song by David Bell http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh1m0eC1004 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh1m0eC1004

a lot of eye candy. Thanks for sharing!

if they ever did a remake of Maximum Overdrive this is the truck i want them to use

this is a good question. I never gave this a thought. so thanks for asking. i guess what could be done is this using the same size rod as your drill bit Drill a hole in a piece of wood and pin it. drill your hole through the rod but do not cut it yet. (you will have to ream the hole a little with your bit so it will fit down over your pin.) place your rod on the pin. now you you can drill the other end of your rod. remove your rod off the pin and cut it for a very close match. -------------- This is not a fool proof way but it will work. alot of how well it works depends on the person controlling a hand drill. if i think of a better way of doing this i will be sure to add it into this tutorial. if someone else knows of a good or better way they are more than welcome to add to this. hey no problem Joe

http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/chrysler-orders-93-rare-early-vipers-to-the-crusher-170043330.html Chrysler orders 93 rare early Vipers to the crusher The original Dodge Viper revealed in 1992 was a beast of a machine — an attempt by then-Chrysler exec Bob Lutz to revive the spirit of the Shelby Cobra and give Chrysler a world-class sports car. Powered by a massive V-10 with 400 hp, the early Viper's brute force overwhelmed many drivers. Today, the power that made the Viper a legend appears to be at the heart of an order from Chrysler to dozens of trade schools, demanding the immediate destruction of some 93 early Vipers, including a preproduction model that could likely fetch a couple hundred thousand dollars at auction. According to The Olympian, the staff of South Puget Sound Community College was told by a Chrysler official that their Viper had to be crushed within two weeks. It's common for automakers to donate cars to automotive shop classes, and in many cases the vehicles in such donations aren't saleable — meaning the company technically still owns the cars. School officials say Chrysler told them two of the 93 early Vipers given to schools had been involved in accidents by joyriding students, creating a major liability for Chrysler. Of those 93, the Viper at SPSCC stands out. It was the fourth Viper ever built, with a prototype hard top years before Dodge offered a production version. With no emissions controls, and no speed limiter, the V-10 can make 600 hp, and school instructors say it could be worth $250,000 to a museum or private Viper fan. “It’s like the day Kennedy was shot,” Norm Chapman, automotive technology professor at SPSCC, told The Olympian. “No one will forget where they were when they heard the news.” There's several precedents for Chrysler's order, the most memorable being General Motors' decision to destroy all of its original EV1 electric vehicles after a safety recall it decided not to repair; the few that remain in universities and museums have been permanently disabled. The Vipers at SPSCC and other schools were useful more for promotion than education, but trashing a piece of automotive history seems like a different kind of educational tool: Punishing everyone for the mistakes of a few.

nice picture... you should sell prints of this

beautiful job Darryl. if i was a rich man i would make you an offer on it.

for anyone who might have come to this page and did not see a video i have added a link to its youtube page just incase. my apologizes if you came into this thread and did not see a video.

its a youtube video. i don't know why it didn't show for you i wouldn't even know where to start. i did add some text just in case for some dumb reason that is what caused the problem. i also added a link below the video. sorry about that. lesson learned: always add a link to the video.

Thanks Mikey. let me know how it works for you. dude i really appreciate this. the things i do may be easy for me cause i grew up around watching family do it in the real world but i do not know how it might work for others. having you come back to say it works great lets me know i did something right.

No problem John. if you need more help feel free to ask. if i can help i will you just got make sure sure to give me enough time to get it done what is the problem? i can't help if you do not give more of a hint on the problem.

In this video i will show 3 ways of drilling rod. 2 ways of drilling across the rod for attaching another rod and i will show how to find the center to drill down the rod. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnjRUCJBSPY&feature=youtu.be Youtube Video Link

as far as i know this is my method. i tried this in the early 90's a few times but never could get the salt to stick when dusting it with pastel. last year was the 1st time since the early 90's of trying and i only tried it because it just popped in my head one day on how to seal it. i don't know why it took so many years for me to figure it out but it did. pastels are another type of media used in art. they have many uses in the scale modeling world from rust to just plain old dirty grime. you can even use it on seats and such to add depth. you will find them in a Hobby Lobby type store or they could be purchased on ebay. when searching make sure you're looking in the art department and look for a cheap set that runs less than $15. you may even find a set for as little as $5.

completely saturate your water with salt. as for how much water 1 ounce of your brine solution should be plenty to do the job and then some unless you are working in large scale. i don't think it would...

here is the link to the rust tutorial i promised. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=85989&st=0&p=1120044

in this tutorial we are going to use a brine solution to create texture where Doc. Cranky method is more about chipping paint away... if you do not know about Doc Cranky method look him up on youtube to see his videos. used together they compliment each other the 3 main products you will be using are brine water (regular table salt with hot tap water works fine) flat clear (lacquer is recommended) pastels Step 1) prepping the service. - this is the easiest part of the whole method. basically you need to make sure there is no grease or wax on the area you will be applying this too. i do recommend applying this to a flat surface over a gloss but it can be done over gloss if you desire to do so. Step 2) applying your brine solution. - 3 ways of putting brine solution on your model. dipping (works but not the greatest results.) paint brush (gets better results than dipping.) misting (best results) i prefer misting with an airbrush but a spray bottle can work just as good. (Note of importance - if using an airbrush to apply your brine make sure to wash it good before putting it away) basically with this step all you do is put a light mist coat on let it dry (crystallize) and repeat intill you get the desire texture. it may or will take several coats to get the texture you're looking for. Step 3) Sealing your texture - you will have to seal your texture in with a dull clear once it is fully dried. I recommend a good 24 hours drying before sealing this with your dull coat. (Note of importance - if you don't seal in the brine coating it could continue to crystallize.) Step 4) Coloring your texture - art pastels work great. they're cheap and easy to use. with as many different color variations out there chances are you will probably find the right color if not then you'll have to mix it yourself. i didn't have the right color in my set so i mixed black, bright red and a darkish brown to get the shade of color shown below. a little burgundy and extra black should give you a rust color closer to what a more humid climate would show. (If your pastels are not already in a powder then you will have to sand them into a powder.) because your salt texture has been sealed in you can be a little aggressive with adding your pastels so don't be afraid to rub it in. once you get your pastels on you can either leave it like it is or seal it in with a flat clear coat. i used a flat lacquer on the model below and it doesn't rub off.

i don't do a whole lot with round stock but i do know a couple tricks so give me a day or two and i will show you a couple different ways in pictures.

John, this Cut and Bend Method is not exclusive to just the AM Max-G frames it can be used for frames of all styles. if its a square or rectangular rod then yeah it can be used to make pro stock frames. round rod you can still use this method but its going be very hard to reshape your fishplates to the roundness to the the rod but not impossible. . even if you're just looking to adjust a frame like pinching a 32 ford frame rails the Cut and Bend Method works great. thanks for asking and i hope this answered your question

i wanna apologize for this... this is my 1st video tutorial and its not as great as i would like it to be. building this frame was easy but when i started talking about it i quickly realized just how much goes into the build with the many differences between frames and the proper construction of the frame with its pit falls. i got tongue tied and spit out the wrong terms a few times in this video so i must apologize for that. when i get more time i will work on making a better one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eyc1CFinVo8 Youtube Video Link

Looking good brother. the salting method is a great way to show wear and tear on a model. if you have pastel chaulk i can show another method of making realistic looking rust using salt water. i have another tutorial i will be finishing up and then i will get to work on the salt water rust if interested

it's looking pretty good. the seats look good as they are so don't take the tip im about to give you as knock against your work. one trick alot of modelers do is use chrome foil to make tears and then stuff the tear with some type of fill. if you don't have chrome foil then regular kitchen foil or even masking tape could work. before building your next junker play around alittle and find what works best for you. keep up the good work and keep us up2date with your build one more thing... if you find something another modeler did don't be afraid to ask how it was done. most modelers are more than willing to share their technique with others