Casey

Not really sure what they look like, but maybe this post will help a little?: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70423

The proof:

I thought it might be a good idea to post and list some long out of production resin casting businesses and/or their products for future reference, as there were many interesting and unique items produced which may never again see the light of day, save for the secondary market. Let's start with Pinecrest Resin's Ford offerings: '58 Dodge "Pilothouse" Pickup from Tru-Scale Resin Details: One each from Scale Reproductions and Accu-Pro: Pickups from SJS Details: [ Is Scale Squads still around? I know Missing Link makes one of these nose now, so a least one is still available: Some Ron Cash bodies: A '57 Sedan Delivery(?) from Mike's Miniature Motors. Is this the same place which was previously/later located in Milwaukee and made the 1/24 Challenger R/T conversion?:

Here are some pics of an earlier IMC issue, molded in metallic red:

Ron Hamilton posted a review of the '75 Blazer snap together kit which can be viewed here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3726&st=0&p=24054

The original issue appears to have the Olds rearend, but the Moving Violation version has the quickchange rear. It looks like it was changed at some point, maybe having something to do with sharing a common chassis with the Austin and Henry J kits?

The '80s Centerline two-piece looking wheels are pretty horrid, but even the originals, with the huge centercap aren't the best looking wheels either. It looks like the front tires are the same as the updated front tires on the Revell 1/25 Model A Sedan kit, doesn't it? I swear I saw the just released version with a turquoise-ish colored truck, too, but I can't seem to find that pic anymore.

Only 40 more days.

IIRC the AAM transkit used the AMT '40 Coupe as the base model. Does this conversion also use the same base kit, or are the Revell '90s tool '40 Ford coupe and convertible kits used as the base kits?

The consensus is...they look good in just about any color, including metallic purple:

More vintage box art: Original issue?: Wrench Connection: HOT ROD series reissue from '86?: 2004(?) reissue?:

.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42061&page=0 I was wondering if the "Action Snaps" 1/16 kits would get a mention.

And on left side of the engine?

Here's one for the Beetle lovers:

Cool, a Hurst Hemi Under Glass 'Cuda of the '67-'69 bodystyle! : Open it up and it's the '64-'66 bodystyle :

Wagons are sexy, including this one. Should be another winner from Motor City.

You might want to try PMing him again, as he has recently been logged into the forum: dencon Member Since 24 Mar 2009 OFFLINE Last Active Feb 23 2013 10:06 AM http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showuser=4277

I wasn't gonna poke that hornet's nest again and be the one to ask, as search through this section using "Dencon" should suffice. I do understand that some people are desperate, willing to take a huge chance, or willing to give a second chance, so that's why I posted the link. Maybe, just maybe, this'll lead to those who never got what they were supposed to, well, finally getting it.

Same here in the Milwaukee area, and as stated in their monthly flyer: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/Attachment/staticbusinesscontent/image/mar-2013-flexi.pdf

They are definitely not Slixx, as they had no company name nor any other identifying words as mentioned above by Dan. IIRC, there were two different 1/16 scale sheets offered at the same time I bought mine...hmmm, lemme go check my eBay purchases from 1999.

I think that's correct as I bought a set on eBay in 1999 or so and applied them to the 1/16 Hawaiian Charger body. I want to say they were available in 1/25 scale, too, but don't hold me to it.

I made some progress in the engine compartment over the last few weeks. I separated the brake master cylinder from the booster to replicate a non-power brake setup, added the two-speed wiper motor from the '68 Dart(?) kit, installed the core support panel, finished reshaping the narrower radiator from the Lindberg A-100 kit and added a p/e cap, and added battery posts and hold down bracket detail to a smoothed kit battery. I still need to add some battery hold down bracket rods and make the battery cell caps, add the p/e terminal clamps, positive and negative cables...still much to do, but it's moving forward again: I drilled a hole and inserted a brass rod along the crank centerline to help ensure the engine block, bellhousing, and transmission would all remain aligned, but once done I noticed the bellhousing from the Lindberg kit was a bit too short and lacked the flared bottom edge, so I added a strip of black styrene, shaped it, and called it good. The Revell '69 Charger's 4-speed now mated much better with the bellhousing, but this car will have a "three-on-the-tree" 3-speed column-shifted trans, so I had to fudge the 4-speed a bit to look more like a 3-speed. I still have some work to do on that front, but the engine, bellhousing, and transmission are now super easy to repetitively test fit, and when it comes time for final paint and assembly, they should all go together without any fuss: I started thinning the alternator belt, but I'm only one third of the way to being done, so we'll see if one of the sections breaks at some point or if it makes it through to final assembly. I also thinned the vent window frames and started deepening the grooves around the windshield trim, then sanding down the trim so it's close to flush with the surrounding body areas. My hope is that once the BMF is applied, its thickness will accurately replicate the trim on the real car, especially around the windshield and rear windows. I have another idea I may try on this car, too, involving the panel gaps around the doors. I'm thinking of cutting the doors free from the body, adding a thin strip around the perimeter to get a more scale accurate gap, then reinstalling the doors on the body without any attempt to make them operational. My thinking is that the fully cut through gaps will provide a better shadow line without the need for artificial darkening using paint, bit I would probably need to "back up" the gaps all the way around to ensure shadow consistency. I may also reinstall the driver's door in a slightly drooped position to show a bit of hinge pin wear, but that might be more appropriate for a second generation GM F-body build. I like the way the right door gaps are now, and though they're a bit too wide, after the body is painted they should narrow a bit:

I get Mark's point, and in a constructive criticism sort of way, he did point out several things on the model which are missing, at least compared to the rendering. I also see the leading edge of the front wheel arches were changed, and I suspect it happened when the '69 style nose was integrated. This is not an easy conversion and requires a lot of work, some of it very meticulous, and requires a lot of time. I would've liked to have seen all the details of the rendering captured in the model, and I think that's what Mark was pointing out, too. Adding things like the shaker scoop, '70 Charger style door (fender) indentions, the optional Challenger/Charger wheels (found in the Revell Challenger kit IIRC), and the bumble bee butt stripe-- all of which are very visible elements on the rendering-- are missing on the model. You had some good ideas, especially using the red pill bottle, but we can all learn from our own builds and what other people's eyes see which we may have missed ourselves.