Casey

'84 GMC "Fall Guy" longbed conversion for the MPC kit from Scale Production:

I saw the "Favorite Kit to Build More Than Once" topic but I wondered who here will build a kit only once, then never again?

"Silent" air compressors exist, and most are designed for hobby use. Buy a dedicated compressor as Donn suggests. Hobby Lobby carries one of Iwata/Medea's compressors, so with 40% off the hit to your wallet isn't quite as bad if you like that particular model. A compressor, when used with a pressure regulator (or two). will deliver consistent air pressure, and it refills itself almost instantly. You can probably pick a compressor on craigslist locally, and have a few to chose from. Ditto for pawn shops.

A convertible variant would render the existing 1/24 Monogram '71 kit almost obsolete, but to some that'd be a good thing. Maybe the old 1/24 tooling is getting worn out, at least for the hardtop body specific inserts(?)? I think the Nash Bridges version was a recent (2000?) modification, but the original kit dates back to 1983 or so IIRC. I can see a modified reissue convertible a few years down the road, though, and if the hardtop is spot on, it shouldn't have any trouble leaving the 1/24 '71 kits in it's wake.

Can you go direct to Tamiya?

Tango Papa: http://www.tangopapadecals.com/prod01.htm

It looks like a pale pink base with pink highlights. Is that Elvis's "Double Trouble" 8-track?

I really like that idea, Mike. Nice work. It does remind me of the Shoe Car...: ...maybe because of the 2-1 wheel/tire setup and pointy nose?

Tonight I removed the molded in grille "teeth", getting it ready for the Model Car Garage photoetched inserts: Next I test fit the hood and grille with the body, making sure there are no fitment issues. Looks good: The LH side of the grille drooped a tad before I clicked the pic, but all three fit together well. I still need to test fit the upper trim piece which attaches to the hood and find the front bumper, too. The hood'll need some more attention at the rear corners, some narrowing for a better fit side-to-side, and receive some bracing detail on the underside, as I used the fiberglass hood from the '68 kit. The little gap just inboard of the antenna base on the fender will need to be filled, too. I've had no luck finding a scale thickness wire which is stiff enough to use as an antenna, so I'm open to suggestions. I also picked up some paint last week at HL, giving myself two choices, so I have to check out what the interior color options were for each exterior color, then make a decision. I'm excited to put the airbrush to work.

It was a very polarizing car, and was considered by many to be the zenith of the Pro Street movement, which also meant the beginning of the end. Totally outrageous, over-the-top, and obnoxious, it certainly set the bar a bit higher, but I doubt any Pro Streeter will ever go this far again. At least this car gave Revell the opportunity to give us that Pontiac J-2000 body we were all clamoring for, right guys? Guys? I have often thought about building this kit, but all the chrome turned me off, as I still have nightmares about assembling the Mysterion's chrome plated frame and suspension...tiny, tiny parts, all over! I'll be tuning in to see how this one progresses.

Love that engine, and a perfect choice to fill up the 1/24 engine bay, Daniel. I'd go with the Torq Thrusts over the Hopsters, but they're both nice looking wheels and those tire sets work very well on the 1/24 scale Monogram musclecar kits, too. Burnt Orange? You're 3/3 so far on your choices. Make sure you check the fronts of the fenders for twisting, as I've had that problem a time or two on this kit, especially the original issue molded in lime plastic.

Nice. I think we all remember that jerk. I drove around with an open Pacesetter header on my '77 Celica GT for a week so guilty as charged. Did you post thumbnail images from your PB? If you could post/upload larger images (850 pixels wide seems to be ideal) we could see a bit more of the detail you're adding. Don't forget the fuzzy dice, the lace garter hanging from the rear view mirror, and Playboy Bunny air freshener!

I think that's all but guaranteed. A Sox & Martin Pro Stock kit is a "must happen" modified reissue, much like the Sox & Martin '67 GTX Super Stock kit before it. I've got a feeling this kit will take the place of Revell's "old reliable" 1/25 '69 Camaro as the kit which spawns multiple modified reissues and stays in the lineup for 20+ years.

Challenge accepted? Your work is absolutely beautiful, Chris, and the masking is nothing short of amazing. Which paints do you use?

Oh duh, it's probably Galaxie Limited's long-awaited '48 Chevy Coupe. Gregg posted pics of Galaxie Limited's '48 Chevy Coupe test shot build from last years Milwaukee NNL, so maybe... Start spillin' the beans, Gregg!!

That's a hardtop or coupe. The lines on the "roof" on the rightmost piece are the headliner bows. Looks like you can faintly make out a B-pillar, but without the side pieces present, it's hard to tell for sure. Definitely early to mid '50s, though. What else can you share, Gregg?

I can assure you no metal axle rods will be included with the forthcoming Revell kit. Seriously, though, I think the Revell 1/25 '70 Hemi 'Cuda will surpass the 1/25 MPC kit(s) in every way, save for maybe some minor areas on the body.

Here are the fine points of this topic: 1) Whatever you choose to use, don't let the temperature exceed 105*F for styrene when curing the paint. 2) For curing paint on resin cast parts, it's a gamble on your part. Some don't recommend heat curing painted resin parts at all and other say 95*F is safe, so try it at your own risk. I tend to agree with Jeff B that curing resin-painted parts should be avoided, just to err on the safe side. 3) Use some form of temperature control for your paint dryer, be it integrated into the dehydrator (best and easiest IMHO), via a rheostat, or via venting. An accurate thermometer is a good tool to have on hand, too, to verify the temp is correct. 4) If you're using a store-bought dehydrator, cut out the horizontal tray grids, leaving the outer rings/walls in place, but DO NOT remove the bottom grid. 5) Remember, the idea (for plastic at least) is to warm things, not bake them. You want to speed up the drying/curing process by increasing the temperature which increases the rate of evaporation of the solvent when using one-part (1K) paints. 6) Don't not use your dehydrator for both model and food use.

Accu-Pro's Dodge extended cab pickup and shortbox bed conversion, with the dually bed option parts shown packaged separately:

Some guy in Hawaii has a lot of resin teardrop hoods, and the one in the bottom row, second from the right looks '67-8 Mustang-ish?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Resin-Pro-Mod-Aftermarket-Hoods-lot-of-10-hoods-as-is-Unknown-makers-type-/290876239804?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item43b9932fbc

Good point. Plus, with the JO-HAN kit, you can build a '70 right out of the box, but it's still a 43 year old kit. I suppose it's also safer to make the formal roof coupe than to master a fastback, just in case Revell decides to. Will you be including a photoetched fret with this conversion, Kevin, like the '69 Cutlass p/e fret you already offer?

Whoopie Kat Decals http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65206&hl=%2Bwhoopie+%2Bkat

I merged three topics, since they are all discussing how to best handle black window trim. FWIW, black sharpie markers always seem to fade to an indigo color, giving the blackened trim a purplish tint...not good.

My Dad built when he was in his teens and 20s, then once again with me when I was eight or so, and occasionally now, but rarely. It's safe to say that his time spent with me building MPC's "Mud Slinger" Jeep Commando and Revell's "Ice Patrol" Chevy Scottsdale 4x4 was the spark which has become a supernova. Here are an AMT '32 Ford 5-window and Model T he built 50 years ago or so: He's not much into dusting.

Altered States Models appears to offer something very similar: http://www.alteredstatesmodels.com/salt_flats.htm