Texas_3D_Customs

Given accurate dimensions this would not be a hard object to model by any standards

You do know I have those right

I can make those, but I have to get the file from Ryan which costs me to get commercial rights to it. Now I would be concerned about paying for the rights for just a single one off. I would not make them this size but in my 15" format.

Yet another W mod

So I have a pretty good selection off-road tires I'm not going to make ones that are very specifically made for that specific kit The wheels I mean you can always ask me a say it makes certain wheels but it'd be more useful to have the make and model of a wheel over a picture

I already do off-road tires and wheels I mean if you're very specifically looking for a certain set of wheels and you could always make a suggestion.

Busy little bee I am

No but I've seen pictures

By doing one in 1:1 do you mean print or have an actual 1:1 Slant six with a blower because the answer would be no to either and cant do that either way.

Listed @ Blown Slant 6

So I don't share my models and theres also different resins and environment. But mainly I don't share my files.

So when I get back to Texas to ight I will check on my test prints, assuming everything went well expect this soon.

I have these wheels and I used to sell them like a year or so ago. I can bring them back probably in 15x8 and 15x10 and you could use my BFG T/A tires with them at that size or 15x8 and 15x12 and then my other classic tires would work

Yes but printing all those small parts is very difficult to make proper clearances to get parts to fit together and also post processing shipping inventory... The list goes on why doing it separately is not as easy as just doing one offs like that.

Try spraying it over in gloss black I think you'll be happier with that

This is going to sound really arrogant and it's not supposed to come off that way but I can see how it will be taken this way; there are a lot of people doing printing I am very fortunate that Scott and I have a good relationship. He has the time to model saving me tons of work and his knowledge on Semis is by far superior to mine because well mine is really not that good. All I have to do is a few changes here and there; he puts the majority of the work in as far, but there's also a big disparity between the really good printers and the people just turning out trash This is more of a labor of love because while the price seems high I put a lot in each kit and I mean a lot of time and a lot of resin, I really don't make that much off this kit. I wanted to come in cheaper but I just couldn't because of the cost to make this. I think that's going to deter a lot of people.

Pretty sure there's a free version of F360, I am biased as I have been using Autodesk products at work for ages.

Same can be done in Fusion 360

I have designed my wheels to have a nub so you can use a 2 mm rod that is what the Japanese kits use and with a little bit of work you can make it work with Revell or AMT

Fusion 360 Inventor and Solidworks are the standard in CAD design, now F360 is not as much the standard when it comes to big companies, but it has pretty much all the functionality of Inventor minus a few things you will never need for this and it has a free version the last time I checked with limited functionality that you will never notice. I have the commercial license and even that is way lower than the other two around $500/yr but I am not going to jeopardize my business to save $500/yr. I used both Inventor and Solidworks as an Engineer before doing this, and while I prefer Inventor both are good platforms. I suggest looking into F360 and there are tons of tuts on youtube on how to do just about anything on it, I admit even with 10+ years of CAD experience I still go back and look at video when theres something I forgot how to do or to try to figure a better way.

So really long time since this all started but I finally finished up the Narrow Eye version, hard to do new stuff and fulfill all my orders and take care of normal life, but its on my site and heres a picture of the parts.

Narrow Eye Baja Bug Kit released on my website here

You don't need to clean prints if they were cleaned well from whoever made them, but alcohol wipes work well if they are sticky. You can primer them with just about any primer I use acrylic primer and it will help hide any layer lines depending on the quality of the part.

I completely understand your frustrations I generally don't do full kits I'm making an exception for the semi stuff because those are expensive anyways but 3D printing is difficult to do big things like that and you'll see plenty of posts people showing artifacts on bodies I can do them pretty good but you know if I'm going to devote a $3,000 printer for 12 to 14 hours to print a full kit mostly just the body it just doesn't make sense to sell it for 30 bucks in fact that's a net loss probably. Like I said I'm not trying to bash you or anything just saying there's there's a reason that they demand those prices unlike injection molding you can't pump out a thousand kits in a couple days.

Also understand that unlike the box kits these aren't injected molded by the thousands in 30 seconds, yes I worked injected molding for a short bit. The time put into printing cleaning shipping is a lot more than what Revell puts into a kit.