I don't doubt for a second that you built this model. And I like it. One thing to improve is stance and wheel alignment. Also, the tyres could be mounted a bit more carefully. Always keep in mind, that stance, wheels and tyres are what make a model plausible - actually not unlike a real car.
As for cleaning models - I wash them, believe it or not. I wash each and every model before it goes into my display cabinet.
Found mowe:
After you cwick on 'Wanguage Toows', cwick on the fowwowing wanguwages:
"Bowk, bowk, bowk!", "Piwate" and "Kwingon, uh-hah-hah-hah". Make suwe yew have the wumber of an ambwuwance sewice weady.
Go to google.com, type "ewmew fudd" in the search line and hit 'I'm feeling lucky'. Once you recover from what you see, click 'Wanguage Toows'.
Hawdly ewer wawed this hawd.
Then go back and click on 'Advanced Seawch'. wmao.
What exactly is the problem?
I am painting whitewalls with a paintbrush and matt white Humbrol for over 30 years now. It has never failed and even the first ones still look like new. I do it exactly like Dennis Doty describes it in his book. It would have never occurred to me, that there could be any other method. And whatever other methods there are, they all sound more complicated and ineffective to me.
With Dennis' method, I have four superb whitewalls in less than ten minutes and I can even do it when the tyres are already mounted on the model, hubcaps and all.
Need I do a tutorial?
You know what we all should do?
We should take the first (car?) kit we ever built, and build it exactly how we inteded it to look back then - but with the skills we have today.
Now THIS would be a funny community buildoff, nay?
Me too. No, actually mine is still a real Dyno. Rare now.
I think the bike Jody posted is a Switchblade.
Jody, I need to see pictures of the bike you have in order to make useful suggestions.
I still have these:
They didn't come with plated parts. Hence, I sent all parts which should be plated off to Bob Shebilske years ago. I should really build these now.
[anorak mode]
The B series engines were the first to be designed by the new corporate engineering department. The RB (“raised B”) arrived just one year after the launch of the B series engines, with the 413; just as all the B-engines had a 3.38-inch stroke, all the RB engines had a 3.75 inch stroke.
B Engine:
Bore Stroke CID
4.06" 3.375" 350
4.12" 3.375" 361
4.25" 3.375" 383
4.34" 3.375" 400
RB Engine:
Bore Stroke CID
4.18" 3.75" 413
4.25" 3.75" 426
4.32" 3.75" 440
4.03" 3.75" 383
See, a B as well as a RB 383.
The 383 cubic inch RB engine was only available in 1959-1960 in the US built Chrysler Windsor and Saratoga.
[/anorak mode]
Gosh, did I tell you guys already that I am NOT a Mopar man?