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Everything posted by sflam123

  1. Yes, for a typical NASCAR build the roof numbers should be such that the bottom of the number is read from drivers side of the car. In very early NASCAR, there were variations, but once the sport evolved in the latter 50's the numbering became more standardized.
  2. If I were building it, yes, I would have put the "12" on the doors up slightly higher. It looks fine the way you built, but I like the decals for the cars from that era up a little closer to the window opening. MOST of the time the drivers name went on the roof edge just above the drivers seat. For your fourth build, you did a nice job! Keep at it!!
  3. THANK YOU Bainford for the kind words and compliment!! I very much appreciate you taking the time to comment.
  4. I may have figured out why you can't see the media content. The FB group is a private group, and I think you have to be a member to see the media. You can contact them and join (no cost) and then you can order. Message them to get in the group. I have attached a screen shot of their parts list and pricing. It is kind of PITA to go through all the hoops to spend money. I will say that their parts are OUTSTANDING!! Highly detailed, sturdy, and perfectly molded to scale.
  5. THANK YOU John B, Meat Man and Andrew McD for taking the time to comment and your kind words. I very much appreciate the comments!!
  6. THANK YOU Hmann68, slusher, and V8tiger for your compliments and very kind words!! I appreciate you all taking the time to comment!
  7. THANK YOU Bills72sj, ChrisR, and PappD340 for your compliments and kind words. I appreciate your comments!
  8. THANK YOU crazyjim, 4mula1fan and cobraman for the compliments and kind words. Much appreciated!!
  9. I believe you will find that if you use the kit supplied spark plug wires that they are still stiff enough the body will not set down low enough to be realistic. The plastic spark plug wires coming out of the distributor will "prop" the body pretty high up and give it a "tilt" as well. I think you will find that the alternatives you have are to use the Revell wires, aftermarket wires or modify the distributor to get it lower in order for the body to set down in a more realistic position. At least that was the situation on my kit. Yes, my kit was sealed. I got it in late June/early July so there is a possibility it got hot, but it was also a very early kit (I had "preordered" it from a hobby supplier) so I think there were some modifications made to later kits. The windshield that Atlantis sent to me to replace the broken one was thinner and had some different dimensions than the original windshield. I am a lifelong freshwater fisherman, and I've used up to 100lb. test monofilament fishing line, so your comparison makes sense. The spark plug wires in my kit were larger dia. than any fishing line I've used and stiffer too. I realize that Atlantis is a new company working to get their feet on the ground. Lord knows we need them to be successful. I am not bashing their effort on this. Just trying to make others that might be building this kit aware of some deficiencies and work arounds so they don't struggle like I did.
  10. Just outstanding!! Incredible detail!!
  11. They do not have a website (yet). You have to contact them through Facebook. Go to Facebook, then search LPH 1320 Model Products. Once on their FB site, go to media and select pictures. One of the photos is an inventory list that lists their products and costs. You message them to place an order. They accept PayPal money transfer. I am not affiliated with them, but their parts are first rate and incredibly detailed, they are VERY helpful if you have questions, and they shipped very promptly after I ordered.
  12. At the recommendation of Charles at Pro-Tech Model Parts, I used 045" braided line for the oil lines and .035" braided line for the fuel lines. I think Charles' recommendations were perfect!
  13. Very nice work!! May have been a pain, but it turned out well!
  14. This turned out very, very well! I love seeing these Ford GT's from he 66-68 era, and you did a fantastic job!
  15. Very nice. Great work on this one!!
  16. This looks great! Just an idea....would a Molotow Chrome 1mm fine point be able to do the chrome on the seats??
  17. That is certainly different, but I like it!! Good job!!
  18. That is a really COOL build!! It turned out very well. You did an excellent job on the build, paint and decals!!
  19. That is fantastic!! I love your weathering on it. Great job!!
  20. There isn't any need to be scared! FOR THE MOST PART, the kit assembles just like any of the Revell 1/16 Funny Car kits. My suggestions to make your experience more enjoyable are: 1. Replace the kit supplied spark plug wires (which are stiff plastic) with aftermarket spark plug wires and boots. My personal preference is Pro-Tech, but there are several that make them. 2. Test fit EVERYTHING. I've built LOTS of the Revell 1/16 kits. I know what does and doesn't need checking. Even though this is just an updated "Jungle Jim Vega" kit, there were some parts that I didn't check, that I expected to fit, that didn't without some minor adjustments, and that caused some of my frustrations. This is totally on me and has nothing to do with the kit. 3. Don't use the rear window decal!! Either leave the rear window clear glass or do what I did, paint the rear window silver/aluminum. The decal is just a little too large and it interferes with the the roof and trunk decals from seating at the ends and IMO, contributed to the "Bubbling" I experienced with the first set of decals. 4. If you use the kit supplied tubing, become friends with your wife's hair dryer. Even though I didn't use much of the tubing supplied, choosing to use Pro-Tech braided line for most of the plumbing, I did use some. The tubing supplied with the kit is fairly stiff and it made getting the bends required somewhat difficult. Heating the tubing before using it made it more pliable. I certainly hope you have fun building up your kit. I'll gladly answer any question you may have as you progress on it. Just message me.
  21. I received my Green Elephant kit almost exactly 6 months ago. Building this kit has simultaneously been one of the most satisfying builds and one of the most frustrating. I put more effort in to getting as much as I could historically correct and adding that extra level of detail in to this one. The paint on the body is Tamiya TS52 Candy Lime Green over grey primer. The tins are painted with Tamiya TS 20 Metallic Green. Pro-Tech braided lines were used on the engine for fuel and oil lines, and Pro-Tech spark plugs wires were used in place of the plastic lines supplied with the kit. The engine injectors and injector hat are resin parts from LPH 1320 Model Parts, and are some of the most detailed parts I've ever found. Overall the kit built up pretty much like any Revell 1/16 kit. I know Atlantis made some modifications to adjust the stance, and I made additional modifications to lower the back end and get the nose down. The use of the LPH parts necessitated modifying the interior tin in the blower area, as I raised the blower cover 5mm (approx.). From what I can find, the real car always ran two parachutes, so I built up a new mount for the parachutes and "stole" a parachute pack from another 1/16 kit. A word of caution to anyone building this kit in the future. When I received the kit, the front windshield was in two pieces, although the box was pristine and sealed. I contacted Atlantis and they immediately sent out a new windshield. HOWEVER....the new windshield cracked when I glued it in place with Testors clear plastic glue. The curvature of the windshield does not match the curvature of the body and the windshield is very thin, so it fractures with very little stress. The decals were probably the most frustrating things I've ever dealt with. The completed model is actually a combination of two separate decal sheets, both from Atlantis. The first attempt at decaling the car was an unqualified failure! The hood and roof decals WOULD NOT lay flat (despite going through a half bottle of MicroScale MicroSol!) and bubbled up as they dried. Both the white side stripes also bubbled badly. After removing the bubbled decals, I again attempted to get the decals to lay down, (using the rest of the bottle of MicroSol) and a new technique. I heated the body up with a hair dryer as the decals soaked in water. I then slid the decal on the warm-up body and applied MicroSol and with a very wet cloth continued to smooth and apply pressure to get them to lay down. I still got a small wrinkle on the hood decal, but although I'm not happy, I'm not buying another set of decals! I have been building models for just over 60 years, and at almost 68 years of age, this is probably the best I can do on detailing and assembling a model. I hope you all like it. Questions and comments welcome!
  22. You did an excellent job on that kit. You are correct....it is VERY finicky! I got frustrated and put mine up multiple times before I finished it.
  23. I am old enough and fortunate enough to have seen the real car run. You nailed it!! Great job!!
  24. That is a VERY nice build!! It looks great!!
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