TheBEAUMONTGURU

Got the interior finished. Lots of added details, photoshop decals for the gauges, and a 4 speed shift pattern. Bumpstops for the back seat, seatbelts, door lock knobs. Some scratch built armrests, radio delete plate, 4 speed steering column and some added pedals from the parts bins. I got all the foil work done on the body, and detailed out my scratch built tail lights TECH TIP: the front windshield from the revell 65 Z16 chevelle works way better and is way thinner. it fits like a glove with NO trimming needed and has molded in sunvisors that work perfect. I used clear Acetate sheet for the rest of the glass. the kit stuff is WAY too thick and looks terrible.

wow! im very impressed with the realistic weathering. very nice. Im a huge fan of these era trucks, and you nailed it. very accurate representation of a real world truck. But if its this rough and rusty, it should be missing all its wheel trim rings by now! ha ha!

very cool project. i always find it fun to replicate a real car, then you can add all the exacting details of that specific car. Always makes for a more realistic model in the end. Keep it up!

A little more progress. lots of upgrades to the original, made some door panel lines, decals for the embossing pattern. a GTO grill from another kit. had to fabricate the latch for the spare tire as well as the rear gate handle. scribed all the panel lines better, and made some trim strips for the tops of the doors, still need to chrome them tho. also made some decals for the waffle patterned metal panels on the rear seat and tailgate, the effect worked well. still lots to do, handles, armrests, belts, etc. the paint is the SEM vinyl dye from my real car. My car also has a black carpet front and rear, not correct for the purists, but its how my real car looks.

Jerry, thanks. i just used various strips and thicknesses of evergreen strip to build up the grill bars. usually .010- .030 thicknesses

Starting in the interior, cut out the seat and sanded all the patterns off the seats and doors, making all my own patterns. Used 2 packages of .040 1/2 round to make all the pleats. Also scribed the rear cargo panels more correctly, added the spare tire cover latch. also complete redo of AMT's epic failure of the tailgate inside panel. Not even one thing correct about the model part! And of course the Dashboard swap to the Beaumont "Lemans/gto" one. Photoshopped up a set of door panel decals that will replicate the embossed pattern unique to a "beaumont custom"

Thanks Everyone! T.Rogers, thats a great looking original impala, glad to see it retains the 6 cyl!

Very nice! i love these builds that are based on a real car. Its a great way to get all the details correct when you own the real thing!

Super cool! im following!

Some more of the kitbashing components involved. A parts bin 327 SBC with a resin cast Powerglide. I scratch built all the A/C compressor and brackets and front drive pulleys and belts along with a PS pump and belts. Qjet for the 327. You will also see a tilt steering column with woodgrain wheel option. and a scratch built AC condencer and a parts bin AC style fan shroud and heater box

I built a factory correct front seat called a "Strato-bench" available on sport sedans and caprice models. i used 2 bucket seats from the SS427 HT kit and built a center section and a folding armrest. I own a real seat like this so i got the details as close as possible. Im also wanting to build a complete factory AirConditioning system. I had to scratchbuild the 3 vents in the dash with evergreen

I started this project awhile back from the Supernatural kit. I was so delighted to see a model kit of a FOUR door Hard top. Such a rarity amongst a sea of convertibles and Hardtop kits. I have a clear vision of what i want to do. Butternut yellow, fairly loaded with options. SBC to replace the kits BBC. a powerglide automatic. Power window, Air conditioning, P/S, PB, tilt steering column, wood grain wheel. Mag Style wheel covers with white stripe tires. Going to have to do something about that front seat problem!!!! this is where i left off about a year ago, body has been sitting drying. PPG OMNI single stage GM paint code "Y" butternut yellow.

got some primer on it and painted finally. I used the real paint from the real car. PPG Omni GM 1965 Danube Blue. It got a bit orange peely. will block out some, but overall its good enough. the modified floor pan worked out good, just have to paint the frame now.

Shot some paint on it yesterday. I used 20 year old Dupont Centari from my real truck. GM paint code 503 Light Green. I really like spraying centari. its not available anymore, but i shot lots of real cars with it and got very good results. Im very happy with how it went on the model. Im going to maybe cut down a few dust spots, but otherwise its super flat. Ive never used an airbrush. this is a cheap automotive touch up gun with a 0.8mm tip. its all i've ever used.

got the bodywork done and primered(a couple of times). lots of block sanding. Pretty sure it would have been easier to block out a real truck! Getting all the spliced panels to look invisible is a daunting task!

Those of us who have cut up and spliced together body panels know how much work it is to get everything fit and smoothed out with putty and bits of plastic. Dennis, you are a master of this!!!

nice clean build, love the color combination, super classy!

great work! cant wait to see it next week!

this is exactly how i do it too

i just made my own from evergreen sheet and 1/2 round stock

id like to see a 90-94 silverado bench seat with the small armrest. Also a really good version of a 64-66 chevy C10 grill, that doesnt look like a cartoon like the revell kit does. also various 70's dodge D100 grills

nicely done. Question: do you have just the 64-66 chevy grill available as a separate part? and has anyone tried to fit that grill into a Revell 64-66 truck kit? yours looks a heck of a lot better than that revell kit one for sure!

thats hilarious! the tipping problem is so bad that someone actually sells a comercially available product to fix the problem. Why doesnt Plastruct just make a better shaped bottle? i guess they can sell more product that way. I wasted atleast one full 10 dollar bottle by spilling it and had to go buy another.

I cant be the only one with this problem!! I started using Plastruct liquid cement last year, and i have probably dumped this bottle 4 times while trying to insert the cap and brush back in. What a terrible designed bottle!!! rounded way to much on the bottom. So this is what i did. I used a spray paint lid and taped it to the bottle, problem solved! a Edge shaving cream lid would also work, i happen to have a revell chrome lid that fit good too. But be sure to tape it on, otherwise you will have a tendancy to lift the bottle out of the lid.

Im sure they will be far better than the 1967 tooled amt/mpc we have to work with now.