LennyB

Jim, I have used Bondic to make crank windows. Dries instantly under UV light and if you stick a small metal rod into it before you dry it you have a post to mount it with.

Cool concept, before and after?

David, looking good. It's odd how they made this chassis. And it gets even odder in the following years. I think starting in '67 they modified it and cut out the whole belly and exposed the bottom of the interior tub and the exhaust was completely separate. Then by '69 they put everything back and molded the exhaust and axle in place again.

Thanks, hoping for smooth sailing now that the paint is done. Yeah right, that's never going to happen.

Right, which is why I hate the Subaru ads that their cars have "symmetrical all wheel drive". It has to be asymmetrical. I can see now that I wasn't clear in my post above and we went way off on a tangent starting from flat tires. Let's get some air in those things and get this post rolling in the right direction.?

Thanks Carl, it sure put up a fight.

So then this is probably derived from the old Monogram kit. I built one of those back in the day. Thanks, I will make a note of it.

Finally getting ahead of the clear-coat. Gave me a hard time as I explained on my 41 Plymouth build so I won't get into that here. In a nutshell the paint is Tamiya primer, followed by a coat of Createx Opaque Black topped off with some Wicked Black (semi-opaque) and finished with some automotive 2K clear from Kirker. Initially the hood came out loaded with fish-eyes. ? After some wet sanding a couple more coats of 2K I think we got it resolved. Still have some wet sanding to do and a final polish. I want to tone the shine down a bit anyway. I'm not sure why the hood looks so dusty in the last shot, maybe I need to clean the camera lens.? Thanks for dropping by.

When I was a kid my father explained it to me in regard to my slot cars. Said if they had a differential they would take the corners better. Never did figure out how to build one in HO scale?

Always liked the 2nd gen birds but preferred the Formula to the Trans Am. I’m guessing this is the Revell kit and not a vintage MPC. I have a vintage74 Formula waiting to be brought back to life. Have wondered if the REVELL kit would enhance the build.

Forget what?

Nice clean looking custom, I’ll be watching to see how it turns out.

It has “symmetrical all wheel drive” so they will thump in harmony? Actually I hate that Subaru term, if your wheels turned symmetrically you couldn’t go around corners too well.?

Thanks, I thought it would be a bit more on the maroon side but I’ll take it anyway. Ok, just remind me to do that when the time comes?

You can't wipe down this Wicked paint with alcohol, that's the problem. If you wipe it down with most anything you can wipe it off. You can't sand it either. If you sand it you have to apply more paint before you can clearcoat.

Usually fish-eyes are from dirt or oil on the surface which keeps the paint from adhering in that spot. But in the case of this Wicked paint I'm thinking it's something else. It's funny that both hoods from the Fairlane and Fury have got it the worst and the roof and the trunk lid have a bit of it. All the sides are good. So I'm thinking it's more an incompatibility with the paint and the clear. But it didn't do it on the 41. Same brand of paint so go figure. The paint has been dry for a few weeks on all of them so that shouldn't be the issue. Hopefully a bit of sanding and another coat will solve the problem. Don't want to have to start all over.

I see some kind of wacky blower offset to the passenger side. After all one does need to see the road ahead ?

Finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. After fighting with a clear coat finally got a combination that worked. Had to give up on the Tamiya because, as you saw, it just ate up the Wicked Paint. Tried some Testors Clear. Out of the can it went on too heavy. Decanted and sprayed it with an airbrush and it was OK but I couldn't lay down a nice smooth coat no mater what I tried. Different pressures, different guns, It finally clogged my gun so I gave up and dug out some 2K automotive clear from the garage. Will need a little polishing but I think it works. I also sprayed my 68 Fairlane and 63 1/2 Plymouth. I had some issues with them and the 2K with some fish-eyes. ? Haven't had problems with fish-eyes since spraying enamel back in the 80's. Hopefully I can sand that out tomorrow and make headway on those two. ??

Jim, I hear you loud and clear. Catching up with yard work all morning thanks to the sun being out. Three dogs and a lot of ?to clean up. Now I’m tired and need to sit down. Hurry up with those seats will ya?

They will once David hits them with the dull coat?Hopefully he does that before you hit me Jim. ?‍♂️

I like the idea, should be interesting

David, these build up nice and actually have a somewhat decent chassis. I’m actually stealing the chassis for an upcoming project, not yours of course. I find it funny how this kit and a few other AMT kits of the era use the convertible interior when it’s a hardtop. Not sure if the original HT had the right interior and it’s only the reissues that have the conv?. Something I need to investigate. The 66 Mustang reissue was another they did that with.

If it’s tight around your male master it shouldn’t float. But double sided tape or hot glue it to your work surface would also work.

I would build a box around this with some flat styrene just a little taller then your mold. Make sure to use mold release and then just pour on top of to make the female master. If you are lucky you can remove the male mold from the box without disturbing the female and then pour right into the box, now from the opposite end, to cast your part.

Sure, we can just kitbash that with a Wright Flyer.?