LennyB

Like what happened with the last simple build you did.? At least this doesn't have stickers. I have this on my bucket list but really want to do a detail build out of it somehow. Still have mixed feelings about what George did to the car, maybe I'll just take a Batmobile and reverse engineer it. ?

I always loved this vintage Monte. Are you using the original AMT kit or the later release. Based on the color of the plastic I would think later.

Nice clean look David, I approve.??

Jim, now we have talked about this. ? Happens every time wifey goes out and leaves you home alone.?

Usually Jim and I do that to others. Guess turn around is fair play.?

This is why these days I have test subjects that I try everything up on before committing to the real project. Had planned on painting the Woody today but things didn't go well, paint didn't come out in the shade I wanted and so that project is back on hold. ?

David, is that really metallic gold on the cloth? It looks really good but more like silver from where I'm sitting.

I’m not familiar with the ICM kit, what scale is it?

So are you saying the spare doesn’t fit vertically even if it extends down into the well in the floor? Of course you could always do a continental kit.

Haven’t read that one yet, I’m a few months behind reading my issues. I’ll have to check it out?

While I haven’t bought anything from MCW I see they have both enamel and urethane. I would think the hardener is for the urethane but I see they list an enamel hardener.? So can see why you are confused Jim ? I took a look at their FAQ’s but found no answers there I have used enamel hardeners on real cars but not for a model. Makes the paint more durable and helps the shine. But you don’t have to use it like you do with. 2k urethane.

Better watch out. There’s a guy working on a ‘63 Tasca Galaxie might try to swipe that engine.

Yes, which are just bolt on items that are easy to swap out as some owners did. I have never been a fan of continental kits. You also have the air vents on the fenders they added because the early ones ran hot. So it would be easy to model one kit to cover both years.

It is odd that the 55 has always been overlooked. Especially since the differences are so minor you would have thought someone like AMT would have put out a 55/56 kit like they did with the 39/40 Ford inaccuracies and all. The biggest difference between the two is the switch from 6 to 12 volts.

Sounds like the touch up paint was probably acrylic urethane if it was meant for scratch repair. It would have probably worked with a urethane reducer. But the people who sold it should have known that?

Thanks for the info. I thought about trying the Duplicolor clear. But right now it's 99% humidity and not expected to change for a few days. So clearcoats are out of the question.

Think I need to have a little talk with the people at Createx....they say you can put any clear over their Wicked paints. Well this is what happens when you use Tamiya TS-13 clear. Didn't effect the primer at the lower rear, just the Wicked black. And it's been dry for over a week. Not exactly the results I was looking for. Fortunately this is just a test subject so no real harm done. Anyone else ever have this issue with these paints???? Comments greatly appreciated. I previously used some Testors Gloss Clear and it went on without a problem. Just found it laid on too heavy direct from the can. Thinking of decanting it and using an airbrush. But what I really want to do is use a 2K.

I always found the best way to represent the black on the hood was to spray it flat black and rub it with a cloth after to give it a slight sheen. What you have now is too shiny IMOH And you are right in scribing the fender rear edge. ?

I've evolved over the years from painting real cars with lacquer, synthetic and acrylic enamels and in recent years 2-stage urethane. I have to say I like working with the urethane, aside from the safety measures needed for the toxicity, so I figure I'll give it a shot on the little guys.?

Jim, glad to see you're starting on this. Should be a cool build.

What I bought is an automotive basecoat. It's a 2-stage urethane that is used on real cars. Need to topcoat it with a 2-K clear. I know, that sounds like too much work.? I still use the old, yes and some of what I have is old, Testors paint for detail work. Mix a few colors together for different shades.

It's a bit of a toss up I suppose. Inks are usually water based, some are oil based, so you need to clear-coat the sheet after printing otherwise it will run. The toner won't run but can react to a solvent applied over it. Anyway, glad you got it working with the vinyl decals. It looks good. And like you said, don't mess with it any further, just call it done.?

Luv the license plate. Wonder what ever gave you that idea?? Looking good and I like the paint. And I swear I didn't steel the gas cap.

That's why I just bought a bunch of Scale Finished paint for future projects.

Boy, these stripes are really putting up a fight. I can understand why the toner bled into the paint. Most people don't realize that toner is nothing more then ground up bits of plastic. So it likes to stick to other plastic. David, I hope on the next attempt you hit a home run. ?