Chris V

Try reading my post again… I clearly stated that I narrowed the floorpan to (not by) 67.00 mm using the framerails as guide to center the chassis. Without an unaltered floorpan handy it’s kinda difficult to tell exactly how much to remove from each side, but the current distance from the framerail side to the edge of the floorpan is 12.50 mm.

I’ve narrowed it down to 67.00 mm, using a vernier caliper and the framerails as guide to determine how much I had to remove from each side of the floorpan in order to get the frame properly centered under the body.

It likely refers to the radiused rear wheel openings. There's been some speculation that the tooling for the 55's tires wasn't included when Atlantis purchased the tooling following the Hobbico bankruptcy. This would also explain why the Parts Pack wheels have been included in the Atlantis reissue. Affectionally known as "The Unbuildables" the original Revell 1954-57 Chevy kits were ahead of their time in terms of detail. Unfortunately the ambitions were ahead of the tooling technology as well, making the kits quite fiddly and... challenging to build. However the '55 is by far the best of the bunch, and it can in fact be built into a really nice looking model with some patience and effort. It's worth mentioning that the chassis is slightly offset to one side. By removing a different amount of material from each side of the floor pan, you can align the chassis properly and relieve some of the stress on the fragile rocker panels making the model much easier to assemble.

In general a ‘68 would have been medium grey primer with body color overspray along the sides.

Have you considered selling them at “Thangs” (The former “Shapeways Marketplace”). They have a printing facility in the Netherlands.

As Mark says, Palmer literally just reversed the chassis from one of their other models to put something under the Porsche.

Spectacular build with impressive details!

I just checked the instruction sheet, and they fit inside a hole in the disk brake hub and spindle. You simply "trap" them in the cavity between the two parts and push the wheel stub into the brake assembly from the outside, once the glue has set: https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/downloads/300024110/300024110_Mazda_RX-7.pdf

Many Japanese kits have this type of wheel retainers. They're made from a slightly flexible compound and designed to fit into a slot or cavity in the brake/suspension assembly. Each wheel has a stub on the back side, that you simply push into the retainer ring (no glue).

So have I... Oh well - It's great to see it return! Round2 included some newly tooled tires in the same style when they reissued the "Street Rods" Series '23 Model T about ten years ago.

Robert Burns ("Too Many Projects" on Facebook) offers a reasonably well detailed 3D-printed 1950 Buick Special Jetback (Sedanette) body with separate bumpers, grille, taillights and window templates. He also offers a 1952 Roadmaster Riviera (HT) body. I've bought both to (eventually) replicate my 1:1 1950 Super Riviera (HT), but definitely it's NOT a simple or straightforward conversion. I'm planning to base the build on a mix of chassis/suspension parts from Revell's 1949 Mercury Custom and 1950 Oldsmobile with a Straight-eight from Replicas & Miniatures of MD.

Finally some progress to report! While waiting for the modified main bodywork to set, I started working on the engine. Now the Nailhead from Monogram's "Orange Hauler" kit is equipped with a bulky Buick Dynaflow transmission, which for one isn't very suitable for a proper Hot Rod and would require extensive modification of the frame crossmember to fit. Having eyeballed the engine from "Boot Hill Express" and "Predicta" kits (these engines are clearly based on the same master), I figured it could easily be re-worked to resemble a late thirties' Cadillac/LaSalle transmission, which would be perfect for the type of car I'm building. "Orange Hauler" engine to the left, "Boot Hill Express" to the right: Off came the transmissions... As you can see, I carefully sanded the square transmission oil pan off of the red (Predicta) engine, before cutting off the bellhousing: The "Orange Hauler" Nailhead mated to the "Predicta" Transmission: I'm currently building a new transmission oil pan from various Evergreen strips.

No - That would be Monogram’s 1939 Chevrolet Coupé, you’re thinking of.

One of the most common examples being AMT’s 1963 Corvettes with DCOE side draft carbs on a downdraft intake.

While most seem concerned about the hood, I’m keeping my fingers crossed that we’ll eventually see a Caliente version with the additional side trim (like we did with the ‘61 Pontiacs) - Ideally with a Sachs & Sons (Jack Chrisman) drag version down the road… But for now I’ll definitely buy the Pro Touring version!

It seems that AMT's (ex MPC) 1929 Ford Pickup/Woodie kit has never been a big hit with modelers - Whether it's because of the funky stance or the availability of the vastly superior (but fiddly) Revell and ever popular Monogram version of the subject matter. Nonetheless I've always wanted to prove that it's actually possible to build something genuinely cool from this tan eighties' mess of a kit: I've always liked the drag racing inspired Model A Hot Rods built in the mid-sixties. Knowing that was the style I wanted to replicate, I've been gathering parts the project for several years. However I hadn't been able to find an engine that felt just right for the build I envisioned - until a couple of days ago that is... The build will consist of the following key parts: Body/Fenders: AMT 1929 Ford Roadster pickup Windshield/Dash: AMT "Ala Kart"/"Mod Rod" Engine: Ford 289 w. cross-ram intake (AMT Munsters "Drag-U-La") and Cal Custom scoops (MPC "Vending Machine") Front axle: Dropped tube axle (MPC "Switchers" 1932 Ford) Front wheels: American Racing 12-spoke w. Denman tires (AMT '56 Ford Victoria, narrowed) Rear Wheels: American Racing Torque Thrust w. M/H blackwall pie crust slicks (AMT Parts Pack) The color will likely be Testors Chrome Yellow Enamel. First order of business was shortening the pickup bed: Using Tamiya 3 mm masking tape as a guides, I carefully cut the pickup bed into five pieces, removing an equal amount from each end to get the center stamping centered over the rear axle centerline. The bed has now been shortened by a total of approximately eight scale inches.

The cost of AM-licensing appears to be prohibitive...

They’re only sold separately - and currently there’s at least seven sizes available: For a comparable and slightly more affordable alternative, you can look for “Hook Broaches” from DSPIAE.

There’s a hobby product called “Grabit Stix” for this very purpose.

Nothing surpasses pinning the parts with piano wire for precise positioning and alignment. Whenever possible I slightly bevel the edge of the hole with a small mill bit to create a small deposit for the glue so it doesn’t ooze onto the surrounding areas when the parts are joined.

Sheesh, give it a rest guys... I still don't get the number of people who take offense if nothing in the monthly news fits their personal taste. As for "butchering" the kits, you can hardly blame Round2 for (pointless) tooling alterations that happened under the previous ownership, and you can't expect them to spend fortunes tooling up new parts for every single reissue - only to complain that the new parts or decals weren't exactly the ones you wanted.

Another issue common to all versions of the '34 tooling is the difference between the main body and the door top/roof-assembly: The two pieces differ by more than a scale inch in width by the rear edge of the doors: Luckily the solution is pretty straightforward: Cut out the center sections of the main body with a razor saw, making sure the cuts are perfectly parallel. Carefully sand the edges of the upper piece smooth, making sure to remove an even amount from each side and test fit along the way. Reinstall the upper piece. When the glue has set you repeat the procedure for the lower piece making sure to keep the corners in a right angle: MUCH better:

I figured I better stop hanging around the "General" and "Industry Corner" sections of this place, and actually post some of the stuff I'm working on. Thanks to the "Daily Dose" (of inspiration) posted on Facebook by Drag City Casting, I've decided to replicate this late fifties' style Hot Rod: The build will be based on vintage Monogram parts with just a few miscellaneous parts from other manufacturers thrown in to fully capture the look of the car. As some of you may know, all early issues of Monogram's 1934 Fords suffer from a mold-misalignment making the lower part of the body flush with the beltline molding. The issue wasn't corrected until the early eighties, when the tooling was altered into the ZZ Top "Eliminator". Thus I'm using one of the subsequent Thom Taylor '34 Cabriolet issues as donor for the main body, while the roof, rear filler panel and stock chassis with bumper brackets are from a seventies "Early Iron" Series '34 Ford Coupé: Out of the two (Monogram) Buick Nailhead engines available in 1:24 scale I chose the one out of the somewhat commonly available "Orange Hauler" - Parting out an "Uncertain T" for the project just didn't seem like a viable option... 😉 The rolling stock is mainly sourced from the Revell "Skip's Fiesta" Series issue of the 1959 Ford Fairline Skyliner, which features 1:24 scale Oldsmobile Fiesta hubcaps with Monogram's large whitewall tires originally found in the 1958 Ford Thunderbird and 1953/57 Corvettes: To add a bit of "Rubber Rake" I chose to use the smaller tires from the Lindberg reissues of Pyro's old Cord Convertible and Auburn Speedster kits up front, as the tread and sidewall detail closely matches that of the Monogram tires, only smaller: As you can see, their inside diameter makes the smaller Lindberg tires an excellent fit for the large Revell/Monogram wheels, which can also be found in the more recent Revell-reissues of Monogram's 1958 Ford Thunderbird:

Not that I'm aware of... Robert Burns ("Too Many Projects" on Facebook) offers a 3D-printed ´41 Convertible, '50 Special Sedanette, '52 Roadmaster HT, and a '57 Caballero 4 dr. Wagon, but he's not taking any more orders at the moment due to a backlog.

Well that kind of haste is a recipe for disaster - regardless of what tape you use. Very few paints beside very “hot“ automotive lacquer basecoats will hold up to such quick handling.