Chris V

There’s no definitive answer to your question, as they all have their issues. But if the amount of detail straight out of the box is your main priority, go for AMT’s “Pro Shop” issue of their new tool kit: it includes ignition wiring, a photoetched grille, scripts and additional details.

Well that answers the question pretty darn accurately - Thanks Ed! Looks like I'll be buying a Modified Stocker kit, then...

If you want to keep it authentic, remember that the windshields weren't allowed to be tinted per NHRA rules. Usually the side windows were just replaced with colored plexiglass.

Thanks, Mark! Apparently there's no way to build a halfway decent '34 without having to perform major surgery... 😅 If I decide to go on with the project, I'm leaning towards your option #1 (grafting the MPC roof and upper door frames onto the AMT kit and lengthening the filler the trunk and filler panel above it accordingly) I'm currently working on correcting a few of the old Monogram kits so the bodywork will line up properly. This one being my main priority at the moment: https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/203024-monogram-1934-ford/

There seems to be a general consensus that Monogram's classic 1:24 scale 1934 Ford 3W Coupé/Convertible is the most accurate looking model kit representation of a '34 Ford. Lately I've been wondering if anyone has attempted to convert the well detailed "Mueller Era" AMT 1:25 scale 1934 Ford 5W Coupé into a 3W using the roof panel from the AMT (ex. MPC) 1934 Ford "Modified Stocker" kit? I've noticed that the Modified Stocker kit actually includes the top of the doors/side window surrounds, but can anyone tell me how accurate the proportions of the top are - or how much work it'll take to adapt to fit the 5W kit?

Current project: Revell 1940 Ford DeLuxe Coupé kitbash using the 1940 Standard Coupé and ProModeler 1940 DeLuxe Convertible - a pretty straightforward swap so far... The project will likely use a number of parts including the lowered suspension components from the 1937 Ford Pickup 2'n 1 kit.

I’ve seen this question raised a couple of times. There’s not the slightest indication that the upcoming reissue should be any different from the last, which was already absolutely loaded with optional parts from the various different versions of the kit. Considering that Round2 actually went ahead and retooled the missing assymmetrical front extension and hood for the latest reissue of AMT’s 1963 Impala, we can’t completely rule out the small chance that they might actually have retooled the few missing custom parts from the earliest issues of the 1957 Ford. However, it seems highly unlikely that they would do so - only to create a brand new box art featuring a factory stock car. On a side note they’d be very hard pressed to even fit more parts into a standard sized box for the Fairlane.

With the number of 1932 body styles currently available from Revell I don't think there's a viable business case for a complete redesign of the AMT kit bodies. However, given the interchangeability of parts between the AMT 32 Fords, I've previously proposed that Round2 tools up a small plated parts tree with universal parts, including a proper looking dropped front axle with either "hairpins" or "split wishbones", a dropped headlight bar and a selection of taillights including 1939 Ford and 1950 Pontiac. Considering the number of previous reissues, I imagine it would do quite well as a stand alone parts pack as well...

In this case no: Drag City Casting has a business profile on Facebook, Ed uses as storefront for his business and posts a daily collection of inspirational reference pictures of real cars and models alike - I blame him for a lot of my current projects… 😜 On a related note I would like to add that his castings are of superior quality to just about any other aftermarket manufacturer out there. The craftsmanship that has gone into creating the masters and molds is truly outstanding!

I literally just saw a post on Facebook, that Greg Wann is casting the Firestone Darlingtons!

So do I... It's also worth noting that these tires were molded from a different rubber compound and don't have the same tendency to chemically "melt" plastic rims like the regular vinyl kit tires of the time.

It appears to be an old AMT "Authentic Model Turnpike" Slot Car tire. They found their way into a very few early sixties' AMT kits as well, including some of the original "Trophy Series" 1958 Chevrolet Impala kits.

Just a friendly reminder that not all members of the forum happen spend their entire life online or live in your time-zone (part of the world for that matter). My reply to the intial question contained an accurate overall measurement and instructions to use the framerails as guide for narrowing the floorpan. All pretty basic measuring and math, most would agree... But I see how laziness is justified cause to derail the discussion with nonsense, over an issue you were already aware of.

Because God forbid you should try to ask politely…

I’m not quite sure who your last remark was directed at @Ace-Garageguy I think I provided quite exact measurements on how much to reduce the width - including additional framerail to edge measurements of the trimmed floorpan. I don’t know what chassis @SfanGoch measured or how he did it in order to arrive at 82 mm, but after carefully measuring the original issue 1955 Chevy Kit I can tell you that the widest point of the unaltered floorpan is just 69.20 mm and that the chassis is offset by exactly 1.00 mm (approximately one scale inch) towards the passenger side. Thus more material will have to be removed from the drivers side than the passenger side of the floorpan in order to center the chassis.

Try reading my post again… I clearly stated that I narrowed the floorpan to (not by) 67.00 mm using the framerails as guide to center the chassis. Without an unaltered floorpan handy it’s kinda difficult to tell exactly how much to remove from each side, but the current distance from the framerail side to the edge of the floorpan is 12.50 mm.

I’ve narrowed it down to 67.00 mm, using a vernier caliper and the framerails as guide to determine how much I had to remove from each side of the floorpan in order to get the frame properly centered under the body.

It likely refers to the radiused rear wheel openings. There's been some speculation that the tooling for the 55's tires wasn't included when Atlantis purchased the tooling following the Hobbico bankruptcy. This would also explain why the Parts Pack wheels have been included in the Atlantis reissue. Affectionally known as "The Unbuildables" the original Revell 1954-57 Chevy kits were ahead of their time in terms of detail. Unfortunately the ambitions were ahead of the tooling technology as well, making the kits quite fiddly and... challenging to build. However the '55 is by far the best of the bunch, and it can in fact be built into a really nice looking model with some patience and effort. It's worth mentioning that the chassis is slightly offset to one side. By removing a different amount of material from each side of the floor pan, you can align the chassis properly and relieve some of the stress on the fragile rocker panels making the model much easier to assemble.

In general a ‘68 would have been medium grey primer with body color overspray along the sides.

Have you considered selling them at “Thangs” (The former “Shapeways Marketplace”). They have a printing facility in the Netherlands.

As Mark says, Palmer literally just reversed the chassis from one of their other models to put something under the Porsche.

Spectacular build with impressive details!

I just checked the instruction sheet, and they fit inside a hole in the disk brake hub and spindle. You simply "trap" them in the cavity between the two parts and push the wheel stub into the brake assembly from the outside, once the glue has set: https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/downloads/300024110/300024110_Mazda_RX-7.pdf

Many Japanese kits have this type of wheel retainers. They're made from a slightly flexible compound and designed to fit into a slot or cavity in the brake/suspension assembly. Each wheel has a stub on the back side, that you simply push into the retainer ring (no glue).

So have I... Oh well - It's great to see it return! Round2 included some newly tooled tires in the same style when they reissued the "Street Rods" Series '23 Model T about ten years ago.