Chris V

Another vote for Milliput Superfine White 2K putty here! As mentioned by others, it can be sculpted in shape and has excellent “feathering” capabilities when sanded. Furthermore it’s virtually odorless and doesn’t shrink once it’s properly cured. For improved adhesion and strength I recommend lightly sanding the surface prior to application. As a general recommandation, putties don’t adhere as well to smooth and sharp edges (like door jambs and panel lines for instance). To improve the adhesion and finish I like to bevel such edges with a round milling-bit in my Proxxon (Dremel-type drill/rotary tool).

A word of caution for the final assembly: The fit between the body and wheelhouses is VERY tight on these models. To avoid cracking/chipping the paint along the rocker panels and wheel arches during installation of the body on the platform, you can slip a sheet of wax paper or backing paper from e.g. a shipping label between the body and platform to protect the painted surfaces.

Very interesting projects! Are the various photo etch sets significantly different from each other?

Pardon my ignorance on modern engines, but is the engine in AMT's "Wagonrod" a LS as well?

If nothing else surfaces, check out the reissues of AMT’s 1963 Chevrolet Impala HT.

As mark says, they're all identical apart from the red glass in the Mazmanian issue. Curious choice as tinted windshields weren't permitted per NHRA Gas class rules either. Either way they all build up very nicely and can be varied with parts from other, more contemporary Revell kits. I'm planning to build a replica of the light blue SWC Willys using the new Revell gasser kit and the Olds Rocket/Hydro combo from their 1950 Oldsmobile Custom kit as a base.

If I’m not mistaken, the Mr. Gasket Gasser was a unique tooling to reflect the features of the real car and enable the body to be molded in clear styrene.

Simple: You cut a length of styrene strip, place it across a suitably curved surface (e.g. a bottle) and tape the ends down to keep it in place. Gradually add additional styrene spring leaves, making sure to distribute the glue sparingly along the middle of the full length of the new strip of styrene, and tape it down to keep it snug when in place. Once the glue has set, the assembly will retain its curvature. Additional leaves will further stiffen the assembly - just like in the real world.

For one of the widest selections of high quality aftermarket wheels in 1:24-scale check out the German company: www.scaleproduction.de

It was the final iteration of the Promo/Craftsman kit tooling. Unfortunately the molds were most likely either damaged, scrapped or lost. Hopefully Round2 will consider this cool subject for their "Cloning programme"...

If you don’t have any luck finding an original set, you can find some virtually identical AR 200-S “Daisy” mags in most reissues of AMT’s 1963 Chevy Impala HT.

I’ve just inherited a rebuildable Monogram 1:32 “Boss Willys”. Unfortunately the model is missing the outer half of one of the front wheels. I know it's possible to cast a replacement in resin, but I would really prefer to replace it with an original vintage plastic kit part. Does anyone happen to have a useable wheel, they can spare?

The F&F "Tokyo Drift" issue of AMT's 1967 Mustang included an optional (stock) hood with recessed bulges. I can't recall if it had turn signal indicators as well, though.

The "Corvette Stingray" Parts Pack engine included in the "Scarlet Screamer" was modified and re-purposed as part of the Revell 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air tooling.

Reproductions are available from Yesteryear Decals

Speaking from long experience, I mainly use Tamiya’s Liquid Cement (White cap), Extra Thin Cement (Green cap), and Quick Setting Extra Thin Cement (Lime green cap) for various modeling purposes Apart from their consistency, the three types have different properties: The thicker the consistency, the longer the drying time AND the stronger the bond: Extra Thin (Green) is suitable for most purposes. As noted above it’s applied through capillary action: you hold the parts to be joined together and apply a tiny drop of cement to the seam. Howeever when an extra strong bond is required (e.g. bodywork) I apply Liquid Cement (White) and “zap” the seam with a dab of Extra Thin Cement (Green) after mating the surfaces. Quick Setting (Lime green) is extremely useful for tacking parts in place but gives a significantly weaker bond. The great advantage is that it evaporates and sets very quickly. The glue seam can be sanded and painted over within 24 hours without sinking/ghosting under the paint. Apart from the weaker bond it has the additional disadvantage that it’s hotter solvents can turn plastic brittle, making it less than ideal for applying thin styrene strips to curved surfaces. Finally there’s Taniya’s ABS glue (Blue cap): The consistecy is close to the regular Liquid cement (White cap). Apart from ABS it’s suitable for gluing some other “oily” types of plastic, including Cycolac which was used for AMT Promo models in the sixties and seventies. As a general note I strongly recommend sanding away any plating or paint from surfaces to be joined with plastic cement. Even if the cement can dissolve the paint and underlying plastic, the paint residue will result in a weaker bond and a glue seam more prone to cracking.

These days the term “Gasser” has become about as misused and worn out as “Rat Rod”. On the true in-period “Gas”-classes, airfoils and spoilers were a relatively rare occurrance until the late sixties, and not generally associated with the look of the cars. Most were quite crude by today’s standards, but on some of the big-budget racers, they were cleverly incorporated into the design. For instance Ohio George Montgomery’s 1967 Mustang had a Shelby-style “ducktail” wing.

I'm afraid there's not much you can do about the set you have. Enamels and most types of lacquer won't work on vinyl/rubber parts. Enamels won't dry and will remain tacky, and lacquers have a tendency to flake off the soft surface. The best way to seal tire decals is to airbrush them with acrylic dull clear. However even acrylics are differently composed, so it's best to test their compatibility on a scrap piece of decal before applying them to the finished tire. Furthermore the decals need ample time to thoroughly dry and set before applying the clearcoat.

If you want to build a '68 you're better off getting a different kit. This is a super rare custom only kit, so modifying it will hurt both it's value and historical significance. Many collectors would love to have it "as is" or simply restore it using the box stock parts. I have two of rebuilders of the AMT "1968" Impala, and I can't wait to restore them to their full custom glory.

It’s a well-engineered kit ahead of it’s time. It should build up well!

Sure looks like the old MPC 1967 GTO kit.

This is truly great news! In my opinion these kits are well worth the premium price.

I believe Tim Boyd has confirmed that a Ranchero based on the same tooling was planned, but the project was deemed economically unfeasible and thus abandoned. Considering the popularity and numerous versions of the Sedan and Wagon I'm not quite sure I agree with that assessment, particularly with so many parts shared between the three models.

To hold small parts I usually drill a shallow 0.5 mm hole in the part and attach it to a loop of metal wire.

Actually Revell's 1957 Ford Ranchero started out as a 1957 Ford Country Squire Wagon. In 1960 the kit was retooled into a Ranchero, but unfortunately a lot of corners were cut in the process: The doors weren't lengthened to reflect the change from a 4dr to a 2dr. body style, making the roof of the cab too short. The stock Ranchero side moldings were omitted and for some reason the stock front bumper/grille assembly was replaced with a 1959-Style. The original issue of the kit was available either with or without an electric motor. It did not include injection molded windows, but the instructions had a template to cut the windshield from transparent material. Later seventies' issues of the (sort of) stock roof Ranchero did include proper windows. In the mid-eighties the kit was retooled into the cartoonishly proportioned chopped Ranchero in question. Further revisions included the return of the stock front bumper/grille from the Country Squire as well as stock, albeit poorly engraved, side moldings. Unfortunately the rear cab trim and separate pickup bed trim disappeared from the chopped version of the kit. The chopped Ranchero was last reissued some time around 1990. I firmly believe that Revell missed out on a great opportunity when they decided to shelve their plans of making an all-new 1957 Ranchero based on the 1957 Ford Custom 300 Sedan/Del Rio Wagon tooling. Considering how well those kits have sold in numerous variations, it's only fair to assume that the iconic Ranchero model would have generated more than enough additional sales to justify the tooling investment. Jimmy Fintstone currently offers two different resin Ranchero conversions for Revell's 1957 Del Rio kit. However the finish of the castings just doesn't compare to that of the model kits.