Radretireddad

Like a sedan delivery.

It’s the oversized tires, stock wheel diameter and ride height that makes it look so silly. I think the tires from the ST version would fix that.

I could definitely have a ton of fun with these!

This version looks rather cartoonish. I’m thinking the ST version is the better choice here.

I could certainly use those door cards for my AMT kits but not much else.

This is indeed a very unexpected surprise kit announcement. I’d be interested in one but I’m betting it’s going to be pretty expensive. If you get the chance, check out all the YouTube videos of the Macungie Pennsylvania historic truck show. The restored rigs that show up would rival any professional classic car restoration.

There’s definitely a cultural undercurrent in play that’s not necessarily about cars and more about street reputation. Several weeks ago the owner of a small local watering hole invited me to attend a show at his place with my jag. A cadre of the usual cars showed up with about a half dozen fairly heavily modified late model mustangs, Camaros, Impreza’s and such. There was one young guy walking around the parking lot talking to someone on his phone. He walked past everything else and zeroed in on all the late model stuff describing the cars and what they were packing under the hood to the guy on the other end of the call. It seemed like these guys were doing recon only on all the local late model street racers for some unknown reason.

I finally attended a cars and coffee where I wasn’t the only guy there with an English car.

If the parts I’m gluing together are positively located and I want the glue to set quickly, then I’ll use CA or JB Super Weld but be advised it’s pretty thick and stringy. If I need more time to position the parts and want a glue with a longer setting time, two part epoxy is my go to.

Damn it! I did it again! First it was the Moebius lifted ‘72 Ford f250 and today it was this. Two kits I swore in previous posts I would never buy. I hope this doesn’t become a habit. In all honesty, after researching the performances stats of the C8, I’ve grown to respect it more and it’s definitely needed to fill the hole in my corvette lineup. Let’s hope for possible future ZO6 and ZR1 versions.

Two to three coats of Tamiya white primer from the can. The gray primer works well but the dried finish is not as smooth as the white. The white primer dries dead smooth with almost no eggshell finish. Three coats of any of Tamiya’s bottled acrylics thinned 50/50 and sprayed at around 22 to 25 psi with the airbrush needle set for a coat heavy enough to level itself out well but not drip, sag, or run. If I’m spraying Tamiya metallics, I’ll apply three to four coats of Tamiya clear the same way. I polish and buff with foam backed polishing pads I get at Hobby Lobby. They start at 2500 and go all the way up to 12000 grit. A final buff with Meguiars Plastix polishing compound and a soft cloth finishes it off perfectly. Createx and Craft store acrylics also work well but will need as many as five to six coats to be able to withstand the polishing and buffing stage without rubbing through to the primer.

I can think of at least half a dozen kits in my stash for which that chassis and suspension would be a great fit so I’ll take one for the parts. The Weber carb intake option looks a bit disappointing and smaller wheel sets left over from the Revell California Wheels kits will definitely need to be adapted though.

Did you fill in the wheel openings on your Impala? If so, how did you do it?

Everything looks like it’s coming along quite nicely. I’m in for almost one of everything. I was wondering when someone was going to do a John Wick Mustang. The body improvements look great but just like the newly released ‘66 kits, the outdated chassis will need to be up sourced from the ‘67 kit or the Revell Boss 302.

Any of Tamiya’s colored transparent acrylics will work as well.

Fun, fun, fun till her daddy took the t-bird away.

No question about it.

I simply grind off the two raised and pinned mounting pads on the top side of both lower control arms but you’ll have to glue the cross brace back on. It removes just enough material to close up the gap between the top of the spindles and the upper control arms.

I’ve been using Vallejo liquid mask with great success.

Straight Dollar store 70% Isopropyl alcohol works just fine.

This is my very favorite generation of the Supra. I’m definitely adding it to my to buy list! Thanks for posting the kit review.

Here are my two oldest survivors dusted off and shined up a bit. The Revell Ford Escort XR3 was bought when new and built in my dorm room when I was in the Air Force. The Hasegawa Porsche 944 turbo with was bought and built just before my wife and I began dating. I was into sports and GT cars because I was crewing a formula Ford in the SCCA on weekends for my employer at the time. I blame the oddball color combo on the carpeting that came in the kit. These two now sit out among the rest of my current builds as a peek into my modeling roots.

Yes! Absolutely! Your results will depend on the quality of your equipment and how much time you spend refining your process. Things like thinning ratios, pressure settings and needle positions require fine tuning and may differ depending on the paint you’re using. Cleanup and maintenance does require more time and effort but the results are well worth the effort. Spraying gloss acrylic clear over matte colors will make them glossy but it takes a lot more coats than you may realize. I’ve gotten great results using Tamiya, Createx, Vallejo and a few other craft store brands. Avoiding the health risks of using enamels and lacquers is just one benefit of making the switch to acrylics exclusively.

Check for trans fluid leaks around the radiator area. I’m not sure if the earlier ones were built the same way but my 2007 developed a fluid leak in the trans cooler which was an integral part of the a/c condenser. The repair would have required replacing it which also requires draining and recharging the system.

Yikes!🫣