Radretireddad

5604 also required some polishing and buffing. Once done it looked as good as Tamiya X-22 but was fully hardened when dry. 5604 is cloudy in the bottle and when first applied but dries completely clear. It’s also more economical than X-22.

The 5604 was all my local Hobby Lobby had in stock so I thought I’d try it and it worked great. I plan on using up the bottle I have but I will look for the numbers you’re using in the future. Thanks.

I should have worded my question a bit more specifically. What is the best way to duplicate red oxide primer using acrylic hobby paint?

I use Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively and I’ve found that it’s a little too thick out of the jar for brushing. Since I only brush paint small parts, I simply shake the jar and remove the cap. A drop or two of Tamiya thinner or iso alcohol right in the inside of the cap is just right for brushing small parts and assemblies in one coat.

What is the best way to duplicate red oxide primer?

Thank you kindly sir. It’s just about time to get her ready for spring cars and coffee.

I never denied the kit body has flaws. There are no perfect kits. If you look hard enough I’m certain you could find errors in just about all of them. Flaws notwithstanding, I still prefer it to the only other alternatives currently available.

Here are the previous profiles of the kit body and of my 1:1 FHC for comparison. I’ll grant that the kit body roofline isn’t quite right especially in the area of the top edge of the windshield but as far as the overall profile from the headlights back to the base of the windshield, I don’t see what all the fuss is about. The overall fender line arc may be a bit more pronounced on the kit body but I wouldn’t have noticed it if no one pointed it out. The only other flaw I spotted is that the kit includes all the parts for LHD and RHD versions but they forgot about the wipers which can only be assembled as RHD.

The headlight openings in the Gunze kit are way too small and it’s too squished together ahead of the wheel openings. The rear edge of the latch tab must be trimmed back to get the cowl to fit over the top edge of the firewall properly on the Revell kit. When I quickly compared both kit hoods to my 1:1, It also appears that the center dome profile on the Gunze kit is too flat. Since it’s dark out and the lighting in my garage is less than optimal, I’ll back my car out during the day tomorrow and take some side profile shots to post.

The flaws in the Revell kit are not glaring enough to be an issue for me. Some minor trimming and filing of the rear edge of the hood latch tab on the body is the only extra work necessary to correct any hood to body fit issue. I’ve substituted a better set of tires from an old Tamiya kit and I’ll grant that a better set of 3d printed wires would really stand out but overall I’m satisfied enough with the Revell kit to build it OTB and toss the Gunze kit. I want the coupe anyway and IIRC the convertible was the only version Gunze kitted.

Aloha Bobby and Rose Camaro. I flipped over the molded fender flares and rear spoiler when I first saw it.

I have the Gunze E-type convertible kit and everything forward of the firewall is cast metal. It also has multi piece photo-etched wire wheels along with many other photo etched parts that have to be folded. I bought it because there was nothing else available at the time. Even though the newer Revell kit has some design flaws, I still think it’s better than the Gunze kit which seems unnecessarily complicated. Casting parts in metal instead of plastic doesn’t add any degree of realism to the kit over plastic pieces. It just makes it heavier. Same with all the photo etched parts. Since acquiring the Revell coupe kit, I have no plans to finish the Gunze kit.

I’m a little disappointed. The Captain Hook and the Jeep J-10 kits I remember being really crude basic kits even for the era they were first released just like the new Ford Dually release so I’ll pass on those. I already own an original Fiero kit, ‘64 GTO, three ‘68 Corvettes converts and two S-10’s so I’m good there. I think I’ll wait for the new Jimmy kit and pass on the ST Blazer version as long the wheels and suspension are stock. The 911 convertible will be needed to keep the series in my stash current.

One decent kit I’d like to see repopped is the 1/24th scale Monogram 1969 Torino Talladega. I need to replace one that didn’t survive a move. It seems like making the parts for a standard Cobra version wouldn’t be that difficult either.

Cool! I think I’ll skip the ST Blazer and wait for this one.

Great build of a cool alternative version. I missed grabbing one of these when they were out. I want to do a panel version. Revell, please reissue this asap!

I’ve been using Tamiya X-22 thinned 50/50 with Tamiya X-20 thinner and have been pretty happy with the results. It polishes and buffs out well but its biggest drawback is that it takes forever to fully harden. Even after a sitting couple of weeks you can still leave fingerprints in it if you hold the part too tightly. I’m told using Mr. Color leveling thinner solves this problem but I haven’t tried it yet. I just finished spraying my latest build with Createx 5604 gloss top coat and I’m very happy with the results. It polished and buffed out beautifully and is fully hardened when dried.

I’m using the old hollow MPC Goodyear blue streaks on all my modified stockers. I’m happy to know I’m not the only one who thinks the ginormous slicks that come in those kits look goofy.

Pearl white is indeed opaque so white primer is a must. The only other thing I discovered is that the test coat I applied to a scrap body rubbed off with water so I’d avoid wet sanding. The sheer variety of colors in their entire range has solved the color decisions in a lot of my future builds.

Yes. No promblemo with the odor.

Great, thanks Erik! By the way do you have any spare sets of hub caps from the M100 kit? If so how much for three sets?

The cartoonish raised suspension and undersized wheel and tire combo make this one a non starter for me, however I do want the roll bar in the bed and the winch and front bumper for my stock plow truck kit. This, the plow truck and the tow truck are also the only source for the correct 4wd NP 435 trans and crossmember. It’s very hard for me to self justify shelling out a big chunk of my very limited hobby budget for an expensive parts kit.

Hey gang. I want to give anyone who hasn’t tried them yet a heads up about some Createx paints I’ve been trying lately. I was specifically looking for a pearl white for my current build but I’ve also been experimenting with a few other colors I recently picked up. The results I’ve been getting using my regular technique have been outstanding and unlike their Tamiya counterparts, they fully harden when dry. If you’re looking for black, their wicked black is the absolute blackest black I’ve ever seen. They should change the name to lights out. Hobby Lobby stocks some of their range but their full selection can be found on their website. There are loads of very cool metallics, pearls, transparent and opaque colors that offer endless custom mixing possibilities and they’re economically priced. Highly recommended! Finished build results coming soon.

Duplicating specific manufacturers colors or getting the shade of a particular color still requires custom mixing. Enamel and lacquer users have a couple of online vendors like Scale Finishes and Model Car World that offer exact matching colors but no Acrylic paint lines.

I use Tamiya spray can white and gray primer exclusively. It’s specifically formulated to work on polystyrene and gives consistently great results. Some guys use automotive spray primers from auto parts stores but I’ve found them to be too overpowering out of the can. The spray cans they come in dump way to much product on bodies and require too much additional sanding. Decanting and thinning them for use in the airbrush is too much additional work.