Radretireddad

Great build of a cool alternative version. I missed grabbing one of these when they were out. I want to do a panel version. Revell, please reissue this asap!

I’ve been using Tamiya X-22 thinned 50/50 with Tamiya X-20 thinner and have been pretty happy with the results. It polishes and buffs out well but its biggest drawback is that it takes forever to fully harden. Even after a sitting couple of weeks you can still leave fingerprints in it if you hold the part too tightly. I’m told using Mr. Color leveling thinner solves this problem but I haven’t tried it yet. I just finished spraying my latest build with Createx 5604 gloss top coat and I’m very happy with the results. It polished and buffed out beautifully and is fully hardened when dried.

I’m using the old hollow MPC Goodyear blue streaks on all my modified stockers. I’m happy to know I’m not the only one who thinks the ginormous slicks that come in those kits look goofy.

Pearl white is indeed opaque so white primer is a must. The only other thing I discovered is that the test coat I applied to a scrap body rubbed off with water so I’d avoid wet sanding. The sheer variety of colors in their entire range has solved the color decisions in a lot of my future builds.

Yes. No promblemo with the odor.

Great, thanks Erik! By the way do you have any spare sets of hub caps from the M100 kit? If so how much for three sets?

The cartoonish raised suspension and undersized wheel and tire combo make this one a non starter for me, however I do want the roll bar in the bed and the winch and front bumper for my stock plow truck kit. This, the plow truck and the tow truck are also the only source for the correct 4wd NP 435 trans and crossmember. It’s very hard for me to self justify shelling out a big chunk of my very limited hobby budget for an expensive parts kit.

Hey gang. I want to give anyone who hasn’t tried them yet a heads up about some Createx paints I’ve been trying lately. I was specifically looking for a pearl white for my current build but I’ve also been experimenting with a few other colors I recently picked up. The results I’ve been getting using my regular technique have been outstanding and unlike their Tamiya counterparts, they fully harden when dry. If you’re looking for black, their wicked black is the absolute blackest black I’ve ever seen. They should change the name to lights out. Hobby Lobby stocks some of their range but their full selection can be found on their website. There are loads of very cool metallics, pearls, transparent and opaque colors that offer endless custom mixing possibilities and they’re economically priced. Highly recommended! Finished build results coming soon.

Duplicating specific manufacturers colors or getting the shade of a particular color still requires custom mixing. Enamel and lacquer users have a couple of online vendors like Scale Finishes and Model Car World that offer exact matching colors but no Acrylic paint lines.

I use Tamiya spray can white and gray primer exclusively. It’s specifically formulated to work on polystyrene and gives consistently great results. Some guys use automotive spray primers from auto parts stores but I’ve found them to be too overpowering out of the can. The spray cans they come in dump way to much product on bodies and require too much additional sanding. Decanting and thinning them for use in the airbrush is too much additional work.

Michael’s has an amazing assortment of craft paints and the prices can’t be beat.

I have the Mazmanian kit and would love to get my hands on the clear glass parts from one of the other versions.

Sometimes I trim off the sprue around the part while leaving the parts attached. That way I can hold on to them with an alligator clip for air or brush painting without damaging or leaving a bare spot on the part. I apply Vallejo liquid mask on attachment points before priming and painting. Afterwards I use a wooden toothpick to remove the liquid mask so I don’t risk damaging the surrounding surface with an X-acto knife blade.

No question about it. I’ve found airbrushing acrylics to be far more economical, forgiving and clean up is a snap. The only downside is that the available colors are somewhat limited but that just means getting good at custom blending different colors. Cheers right back.

That’s the beauty of the hobby. If you’re happy with the results, that’s all that matters. Not everyone may be able to afford the best equipment at the moment. Again. The great part about the hobby is we are free to blaze our own trail to the results we’re striving for. I have completely sworn off of enamels and lacquers in the interest of preserving domestic tranquility. Using any of the stinky old stuff would result in immediate banishment by Mrs. Radretireddad. Thankfully I have been able to refine and adjust my airbrushing technique to achieve excellent results and an enjoy all the other benefits they offer.

No problem. Keep going and I wish you many happy hours of hobby time. Check in with us frequently for any more assistance you might need.

Have patience dear brethren. According to what we heard at DAAM there’s more new stuff moving through the pipeline.

Airbrushes can yield amazing results and allow for custom color mixing but they are more time consuming and require patience and practice to get good results. If you carefully refine of all aspects of your technique and invest a little more in good quality equipment you’ll start to reap the rewards over time.

I prefer to do all the sanding up front during the prep work. The Tamiya white primer seems to always dry in a uniform very smooth finish. I have my ratios, air pressure, needle settings and application method dialed in to where the final finish is smooth enough to not require any final sanding. Hobby Lobby sells a package of final polishing and buffing pads that rage from 3200 up to 12000 grit and are perfect for removing small flaws. I use Meguiars Plastex to remove any fine scratches or hazing.

I have not had to adjust the thinning ratio with either type of paint. Your airbrush and compressor combination are what’s going to determine the correct ratio and you’ll need to experiment until you find it.

Wow, much better!

Sounds good. Trial and error is what does it for me. I also forgot to mention to meticulously clean your airbrush between uses. Good luck!

Here are a few things you should be doing consistently with all acrylic paints. Make sure the paint is thoroughly shaken or stirred. Especially metallics. Use a stirring stick to make sure there are no residual solids still sitting at the bottom of the bottle. Use Isopropyl Alchol or Tamiya thinner. Some guys recommend Mr Color leveling thinner but it’s expensive and hard to find. You’ll have to experiment with thinning ratios and needle settings until you find the one that works for your compressor and airbrush. For the thicker craft paints start out at about 40% paint and 60% thinner. Make sure to use a good primer. I use Tamiya exclusively. Make sure the part is thoroughly clean, dry and free of finger oils and foreign material before applying the primer. I gently scrub the part with a little dish soap and water and an old toothbrush. The final obstacle to getting good results may be your compressor and airbrush. I spent around $75 for a compressor with a tank and adjustable pressure. Spending the money for a good compressor that provides a consistent pressure made a world of difference in the results I was getting. If you can’t get the CraftSmart paint to work try some other brands. Tamiya is the gold standard but I’ve recently found that the Createx brand sold at Hobby Lobby is also very good. I just got through spraying some red Craftsmart outdoor acrylic paint on these seats and I’m very happy with the results. Good luck and let me know how it’s going.

That’s where I’d start. Use 91% isopropyl alcohol or Tamiya acrylic paint thinner. It isn’t a good idea to use tap water in your airbrush because the solids it contains can clog it up. Try adjusting your thinning ratio as well. What pressure are you using?