Radretireddad

Damn it! I did it again! First it was the Moebius lifted ‘72 Ford f250 and today it was this. Two kits I swore in previous posts I would never buy. I hope this doesn’t become a habit. In all honesty, after researching the performances stats of the C8, I’ve grown to respect it more and it’s definitely needed to fill the hole in my corvette lineup. Let’s hope for possible future ZO6 and ZR1 versions.

Two to three coats of Tamiya white primer from the can. The gray primer works well but the dried finish is not as smooth as the white. The white primer dries dead smooth with almost no eggshell finish. Three coats of any of Tamiya’s bottled acrylics thinned 50/50 and sprayed at around 22 to 25 psi with the airbrush needle set for a coat heavy enough to level itself out well but not drip, sag, or run. If I’m spraying Tamiya metallics, I’ll apply three to four coats of Tamiya clear the same way. I polish and buff with foam backed polishing pads I get at Hobby Lobby. They start at 2500 and go all the way up to 12000 grit. A final buff with Meguiars Plastix polishing compound and a soft cloth finishes it off perfectly. Createx and Craft store acrylics also work well but will need as many as five to six coats to be able to withstand the polishing and buffing stage without rubbing through to the primer.

I can think of at least half a dozen kits in my stash for which that chassis and suspension would be a great fit so I’ll take one for the parts. The Weber carb intake option looks a bit disappointing and smaller wheel sets left over from the Revell California Wheels kits will definitely need to be adapted though.

Did you fill in the wheel openings on your Impala? If so, how did you do it?

Everything looks like it’s coming along quite nicely. I’m in for almost one of everything. I was wondering when someone was going to do a John Wick Mustang. The body improvements look great but just like the newly released ‘66 kits, the outdated chassis will need to be up sourced from the ‘67 kit or the Revell Boss 302.

Any of Tamiya’s colored transparent acrylics will work as well.

Fun, fun, fun till her daddy took the t-bird away.

No question about it.

I simply grind off the two raised and pinned mounting pads on the top side of both lower control arms but you’ll have to glue the cross brace back on. It removes just enough material to close up the gap between the top of the spindles and the upper control arms.

I’ve been using Vallejo liquid mask with great success.

Straight Dollar store 70% Isopropyl alcohol works just fine.

This is my very favorite generation of the Supra. I’m definitely adding it to my to buy list! Thanks for posting the kit review.

Here are my two oldest survivors dusted off and shined up a bit. The Revell Ford Escort XR3 was bought when new and built in my dorm room when I was in the Air Force. The Hasegawa Porsche 944 turbo with was bought and built just before my wife and I began dating. I was into sports and GT cars because I was crewing a formula Ford in the SCCA on weekends for my employer at the time. I blame the oddball color combo on the carpeting that came in the kit. These two now sit out among the rest of my current builds as a peek into my modeling roots.

Yes! Absolutely! Your results will depend on the quality of your equipment and how much time you spend refining your process. Things like thinning ratios, pressure settings and needle positions require fine tuning and may differ depending on the paint you’re using. Cleanup and maintenance does require more time and effort but the results are well worth the effort. Spraying gloss acrylic clear over matte colors will make them glossy but it takes a lot more coats than you may realize. I’ve gotten great results using Tamiya, Createx, Vallejo and a few other craft store brands. Avoiding the health risks of using enamels and lacquers is just one benefit of making the switch to acrylics exclusively.

Check for trans fluid leaks around the radiator area. I’m not sure if the earlier ones were built the same way but my 2007 developed a fluid leak in the trans cooler which was an integral part of the a/c condenser. The repair would have required replacing it which also requires draining and recharging the system.

Yikes!🫣

My 30 plus year old Badger 200 is on its second needle and nozzle tip and has already outlasted one compressor. If it ever wears out, I can’t imagine replacing it with anything else.

An AMT deuce tudor will complete the series in my stash. Even though I own all the Revell iterations, I still enjoy the simplicity and versatility of the AMT lineup.

For parts that are difficult or too risky to hold with tweezers like headlight lenses and the aforementioned ‘40 Ford door handles, a quick and readily available method I use is the flat end of a bamboo skewer dipped in liquid mask and allowed to dry. It will stay sticky long enough to glue a set of lenses in, but will eventually loose its stickiness and need to be reapplied. It works great as a quick always at hand method for small and unwieldy parts.

I’m interested to know how you capture the semi metallic look of the vinyl interiors of 60’s cars. I remember they weren’t really metallic per say but the weren’t solid either.

If it were some ridiculously large snorkel or teardrop bulge like the ones on the johan maverick and comet or the Revell T-bolt, I’d definitely be attempting to duplicate the stock hood or wait for an aftermarket alternative. Since the dual inlet style hood is era correct and very much identified with the high performance and racing versions of the car, it’s not a deal breaker for me. If the kit came with both hoods, I’d opt for the accessory part anyway.

You gotta love the hair helmet on the dude in the background. 😄👍

I had to finish something to get myself out of a slump so I spontaneously decided this once discarded Monogram 1992 Corvette convertible was what I needed. I started it when I bought it new but screwed up the paint job. Since there was nothing available to safely strip paint at the time, I shelved it and bought a second one to start over. Fast forward to 2025 and thanks to a nice long soak in the magic purple pool I was able to salvage it. This is actually the third paint job as the second one done in Tamiya metallic blue uncharacteristically didn’t cover evenly. Three coats of Createx pearl blue and three more Createx clear coat followed by a little Meguiars plastix got the job done. The build is 100% OTB. Now all I have to do is decide what to do with the extra unstarted kit I have. The two accompanying C4’s are builds I started back in the 90’s and finished last year. They’re not my best work but I’ll post more pics of them if anyone is interested. Thanks for stopping by.

The one in the AMT Z/28 kit is pretty good.