The Modeling Hermit

That is a very clean build. I like the skirted fenders and continental kit. The only thing that seems out of place is the tires and wheels. I think that for a period look, it might have benefited from wide whites and spinner hubcaps. That's just my opinion, and I still love the car the way it is. I've attempted customs before, and I could never come close to the quality that you've achieved with this work of art.

She did some really good work. The paint splatters give it character. I need to talk my wife and daughter into posting some of their models.

I never use the kit decals; not because of quality, but because I'm rather strange. I scan them onto my computer, and then when I want a decal, I run off what I want onto decal film. That way I can use the same decals for future projects if I so desire, and I never worry about quality, or messing up a decal. I told you I was strange.

Thanks for posting this. I've copied it to my files for future use.

Good catch on the year, and thanks for the correction. I'm working on a 37 Ford panel right now, and had that going through my brain. Yes it is the 41 Chevy. I built this several years ago, and the dirt is actually crushed stone from Iowa's gravel roads. I appreciate all the kind comments.

I'm glad that you displayed the progress pictures. At first, I thought that the walls were aftermarket. That's how good the walls look. This is already an impressive diorama.

Clayton. I see a major flaw with your truck. It's at your house and not mine. LOL That's a fine build.

This is a very impressive and clean build. Thanks for sharing the progress pictures.

I grew up in Iowa, and I remember seeing many old farm trucks that looked like they'd just escaped from a junk yard. What I have here is a 37 Chevy pickup as would be found in the late fifties to early sixties. This one shows many years of driving on gravel roads and use on the farm. Since my original intent was to show it in action, I've also included a driver.

Dave is right about using the round ball on the Dremel from the inside. For the weathering, I use water based craft paints from Wal Mart. I also take the kindergarten approach. I dry brush the paint on, and then take my fingers to blend it on. For gritty rust, I use silica sand mixed in with the paint. Remember that weathering happens differently as to how it happens. Think about what your vehicles represent. Notice that the weathering on the static cars happens in and up and down Pattern, while vehicles in motion will show display that.

This is a 32 Chrysler that has been forgotten for maybe 50 years or more. I've shown how nature is not always perfect. The tree has grown in a rather strange shape and also has dead branches in it. The ground is rock from my driveway. The foliage is woodland scenics. Weathering on the car was done with craft paint from Wal Mart. Gritty areas had silica sand mixed in with the paint. The human element was brought in with bullit holes in the windshield, and the hood opened showing that somebody had been working on it, and just walked away. Since this car has been sitting, I've shown streaking in and up and down pattern on the sides, and a "pooling" affect on flat surfaces. A dremel tool with a cone shaped attachment was used from the inside to show rust through.

I've got a suggestion for all of those with this forum addiction. I'll contact your wives and suggest to them that if you don't get back in your model rooms and get busy, that they go in and paint your model rooms hot pink.

I love that 57 flip top box. The red and black look great together.

You've done justice to some classics that are not often seen in the modeling world.

I keep planning to build one of these, and I even have all the materials, but I keep getting sidetracked. You've done an excellent job with this one. Maybe it will inspire me to get onto mine.

Happy Birthday, and May the Plastic Gods leave you lots of goodies.

Happy Birthday, and may the Plastic Gods be kind to you.

Welcome to the forum Dave. Utah is a fantastic state. My wife and I were married in Salt Lake City, and We lived in Provo and Orem for awhile back in the eighties. I have a son living in SLC now, and was also married there. I have another son in Seattle that will soon be going to SLC to get married. My family is also into model building. My wife is into street rods from the thirties, and I've got a daughter that likes the big rigs. We use Testors paints almost exclusively, and they've always worked well for us. The Model Masters line of enamels work best for us. Be sure to use primer as has already been mentioned. I have to admit that I still often use Testors tube glue. One thing that I do with windows, is to tack them in with Elmers school glue. The water based glue can easily be wiped off of the glass with a damp rag. Once that sets, you can then glue the window in place without it sliding around and getting glue marks on it. Don't try to match the quality that you see on the forums while starting out. Start out slow and just enjoy the fun of building together. Do not be afraid to display your work on the forums, even if you don't think that it's as good as what you see us post. I find it a thrill to watch the improvement of others.

Welcome to the forum. Those are some great looking builds. It's unusual to see hand painted striping come out looking as good as yours. I don't think that I could do it that well. I also like your camera angles.

I like the way you kept it simple, but very well detailed.

Man, that's what I call "hot".

That illegal activities one is funny. Thanks for sharing these.

This is a cool diorama. I can see somebody finding that and making a street rod out of it.

The Ultra is more difficult to work with, but I do like the difference when the job is done. I use Ultra for chrome and regular for stainless. I can get the Ultra on and get it to look, but be prepared to discard three pieces for every piece that you get to look good. Unless you're into hassles and frustration, go with what the others have said.

Welcome to the forum. I got my start in building models in Tulsa.