GerN

You might consider a retro/future look. Use side trim in the F&F mode, continue it over each front wheel opening, around to the front where it dips enough to match the hood and extends across the front. Then put tiny projector lamps where the front bar goes between each fender and the hood (and maybe swell that area of the bar a little). For the grille, perhaps a V shape with rounded corners to give some agressive personality. I'd attempt to draw this concept, but I know how badly I draw. Color? Maybe a bright yellow body and chartreuse for the trim, with a silver wire centered on the trim and either above the headlights, or both above and below. I don't recall seeing anything like this before.

Most of the time, rubber-coated shelf liner (looks like rubber screening) works for me - one piece for the bottle, one for the top. This stuff also makes a good work surface when I'm hacking up a car body, etc. and need a little help keeping it in place. For really recalcitrant bottles, I use a a strap wrench on the bottle.

98.7% is phenomenal! I have around 20 customs at the primer stage and zero finished. I love the creative part of the build, but the details and paint bog me down. Once the body and mechanicals are set, "a brief break" with a new idea is irresistible. Your persistence with the decals is also exemplary.

Brave work here. Great to see the design progress and forum back-and-forth.

The chassis had a warp that didn't respond to heat and force, so I used an umbrella rib (Dollar Store) to straighten it. Yet another DOH! moment. I put the exhaust on the wrong (driver's) side of the engine. The chassis wants it on the passenger side (see photo). So, I've started engine number 2.5. Here are engines 1, 2.5 (eight cylinder only rates a half), and the beginnings of 3.5. I was so disgusted, I decided to treat myself to starting a new car. Of course, its a glue bomb (check the glue left on the frame). Fortunately, most of it came apart pretty cleanly. I'll open a new topic if it goes well. Actually, I looked at engine 1 and thought, I can do something fun with that. I promise to resume the Mustang II once I have the Austin in rough primer.

Fantastic in every way: design, craftmanship and photos. I really enjoyed your build pix&trix on Facebook - great stuff, inspirational and educational.

Customs can be very demanding. Often a change will have unexpected consequences, and/or you'll see the project in a new way as work progresses. For me at least, fast construction just doesn't happen. This looks good, so keep going!

Definitely different, and obviously original. Lookin' good.

Very nice engine. I need to look at this in the raw plastic in my unbuilt kit. Good work.

Progress (I hope). Ready to put most of new engine together. Cast solid block for ease of work. Pix also shows original taillight piece, my mold and first casting attempt. Drilled out a disc brake, made mold, will now start casting brakes. Now satisfied with chassis - its a press fit! Hopefully you can see where I used a new technique (for me) to smooth join between shortened chassis halves next to end of drive train opening. 5-minute epoxy, sprinkled on plaster (Durham's - my favorite), then pressed with a finger. Easy and leaves a nice texture. Thanks for looking (sorry I'm so slow).

Great choice of subject, great execution - one week!?!

Just wow - another great design.

I have only been able to find mention of the AC Cobra Mark VI in 2011. Don't know if any were ever produced by Gullwing GmbH, which supposedly agreed to do so for AC Cobra. The top was to be removable, with gull wing doors. My custom Cobra will have a modified Viper chassis and new Mustang engine, if I ever finish it. My goal was a modern Cobra with current day amenities and comfort, but still high performance (and a tiny bit of the Cobra kammback look).

Here's what can happen when you neglect a project for too long. First, my custom (widened, fastback) Cobra. Then the AC Cobra Mark VI which I discovered today when I googled cobra rear suspension. LOL, or, rueful chuckle.

Couldn't resist slapping some paint on it (raining outside and I don't want to spray inside, so, the big brush!) Still trying to move the rear fender peak forward a little so its over the wheel opening. Decided to go with my cast Ferrari 250 grill. Nose is now probably too long, but I'll stare at it for awhile before doing anything. Thanks for your patience. Redid spark plug plates (like valley cover) and put Solex carbs and intake cam cover, etc together. Cast enough so maybe would get eight good ones.

Good plans for what's next. If you posted a side view, we could all imagine how pulling in the bumpers would affect the front-rear balance.

Working on the new engine, I had a real doh!! moment. Pix shows how I started gluing segments from the Nitto Lambo engine to form a straight eight. Then it hit me: cut a groove in the bottom of the NL casting BEFORE cutting it apart - presto! - easy line up for gluing back together. Do-over time. The spark plug well segments came out OK. I used EZ clay from WallMart; under two bucks and works well for this type of casting. After a quick cleanup of the grill casting, I tried it on the M II - maybe I'll replace the original grill area. Don't want to overdo the customizing, but this is tempting.

This looks good already. I like your choices. Please consider moving the headlights back about 3 - 4 scale inches and Frenching them. This would be a small change that gives the front a different look.

Customs are so much fun . . . I've also given up on my chassis. Found an old mold that looks good, but I don't know what it is. Copy is usable, I think. Copied the Solex carbs from the Nitto Lambo (I've also copied the Gran Sport Corvette Solexs, but I think these have a bit more detail). I'll use the cam covers from the NL as well for my straight eight (I know, high speed vibrations, but this is a custom). In this pix you can see my mold for the wheels and a tiny bit I made to go between the cam covers, once I do eight copies of it. Hope my copy of the AMT Ferrari 250 SWB grill will work. Thanks for looking.

SSNJim, you are correct - a lot of similarity, especially from that angle. Just noticed you're in Bowie - you must be aware of the Maryland Automotive Modelers Association? I've given up on the flat six. I got it to fit, but replacing spark plugs would have been too difficult. I now intend to go with a straight eight (have to be different), to fill up that nose. Probably use side draft solex carbs, one throat per cylinder. Also started adapting Fox interior to M II.

I didn't think of that, but you're right. Here's a comparison: I'm eliminating the Mustang coves; hate to, but it looks better without them. Engine is coming along, but its a lot of fun trying to get the chassis to accept it.

The combination of imagination, great design sense and craftsmanship is a treat to see. Thanks for sharing. Here's a suggestion for wheels - the strong look of the car seems to want something purposeful and unusual. This is a modified Porsche racing wheel.

Urethane resins vary. I use MicroMark CR-300 and it is very easy to work: its softer than Alumilite, not brittle, and for a large body part, I include thin fabric (old pajamas) for strength. Its also good to reinforce resin joints. In my On the Workbench topic (Mustang II custom), you can see how I cast the roof, widened it with a simple butt joint and reinforced with a piece of wire near where it meets the body. This area will receive the most styling (and stress). Give it a try - I have a lot of fun with resin.

The Fox chassis is too flat for my Mustang II - not enough suspension travel for a decent ride. So I stepped it just ahead of where the IRS diff will go. Quick and dirty, but the bits to follow should hide much of it. Thanks for looking.

Excellent work! Thank you for sharing - very enjoyable pictures.