GerN

Great design work (and comments). Have you tried less extreme wheels and tires? I'm curious to see how that would look.

Decided on a rear treatment. I'm afraid I'll have to redo the a pillars - hope I don't ruin things. Rear window now has double curvature - could be a problem. My use of fabric to make a thin but strong casting for the roof may also backfire; you may be able to see the edges of the sanded fabric. Hopefully, painting and sanding will solve. Was pondering transition from c pillar to fender - I like this treatment: a little visual separation lightens the heavy rear end.

Thanks! Here are more photos. I've raised the rear, roughed in the front, attached the top and added a 90's Firebird dash and steering wheel. Still need to decide about the rear. I'm leaning toward flowing up to the roof tips with a duck tail rear, and filling in with a small trunk lid between the C (?) pillars. I will probably keep the rear wheel skirts, even though I worry that will make my rear look too big. My plan at this point is to modify a 90's Firebird chassis (from a junker, of course). Small projection headlights somewhere in the gaps. No idea yet on taillights. May use a very simple mesh grille. BTW, putting the body together from a bunch of resin castings was a BEAR, so don't be too critical of the resultant body not being perfectly square. Do feel free to comment/criticize styling/etc.

New build, mostly my own resin castings. I'm showing a lot of the false starts, so please be patient. First approach: Jag fenders, 49 Ford hood, 46 Chevy top. After some work, decided to mold entire Jag body - will make slice and dice easier. Thought I'd use my resin copy of a Camaro chassis. Started modifying it. Hmm . . . Nose too heavy, so went with modified 300 SL nose and hood. New starting parts (and water-cooled flat six): Getting there . . .

Very nice work. Special kudos for scribing in the panel lines to keep with the phantom concept (instead of custom).

Very creative - and fun. Have you any experience with GIMP? Its free, and a lot like Photoshop.

Straight pins make very strong, thin supports, as long as you need something straight and an inch and a half or less. BTW, have you seen the Offy photos I sent you? If not, you might check your forum messages. I'm enjoying this build.

Here's a photo of the main pieces of a Mazda rotary, showing the intake and exhaust ports.

You've inspired me to tear apart my gluebomb, extract the Offy and slice it up. Here's a photo that might help you.

Maximum Minis, by Jeroen Booij has photos of quite a number of similar modified Minis, and an abbreviated history of most.

Very original, and well-executed. I think woofers do need some way to prevent the out of phase sound waves from front and back from partially cancelling each other. I'm really enjoying this build.

I appreciate your design thoughts as you build - good reading (and learning).

Stunningly realistic!

Love the creativity.

It feels so right.

What a great idea! Especially because I never seem to get past the primer stage. Almost all the creative work is done by then (I've never done other than a single color), and a new slice-and-dice custom becomes irresistible.

Outstanding. It looks ugly but right - very impressive.

Good start! Keep it going . . .

Really great photos - thanks!

I'd pick 3 - distinctive, and their delicacy goes with the car.

So realistic! Especially the woodgrain which appears subtly aged. Love to see larger photos of this model.

Thanks for the comments! More pix: Starts with closeup of inside of patch using clay, CA, baking soda. Profile and 1953 Corvette chassis with considerable mods. The C channel allowed me to use wire to put it together after cutting it all apart. Next is some fabric inside the mold I made from the master for the extended hood (cast the original twice and joined them). The cast hood, a modified tire and my start on the engine from the AMT Jag XJ220 (I think its a 120 degree V6). Added front wheel work and propped it up on some tires and a couple of my custom wheels. Hard to see, but I also added 2mm to the bottom of the body using 12 gauge aluminum beading wire. As well as a little thicker, I wanted to roll the bottom edge a bit. I think I need to reduce the fin on the rear fenders - too much for the rear of the car. Considering leaving the area under the rear of the sides of the hood open, maybe with mesh. When I get the body ready for final primer, I'll try to do some more work on the custom Mustang II. Thanks for looking.

I've been a bad builder. I let myself get diverted by a new build. Anyway, here it is. Of course, it started as a quick slice&dice of a gluebomb. The blobs are clay; this is a quick way to build up an empty or weak area: fill behind clay with superglue and baking soda.

For me, good automotive design should be functional, unified and balanced. If it can't be driven, it isn't a car, its automotive art. I enjoy even caricatures, but I probably wouldn't build one; I like trying to design a car I could enjoy owning and driving. Just my preference, not an ideology. For an example of extreme yet functional design, check out Colani. BTW, good topic. P.S. I tend to like two box car designs with a Golden Ratio of about 40% length of box one (front end to base of windshield) and 60% box two (rest of car).

Great work! Looks very realistic and I love the subject choice.