Donny

Hi Stu, I'll give the tint a go in the next couple of days, post a pic if it turns out okay or however. Apart from the US exchange rate, the postage is a killer, if I'm looking for something, I spend a lot of time checking everything to find the cheapest and then decide if I want to pay that price - do I REALLY want it. Okay, Shoreline Hobby, I got in touch with Bill Corcoran the owner, helpful guy, thought he may have had a broken kit he could rob, he didn't, but he gave me some guys here in Oz that might help, so I'll get the wheels turning today and see if they have any bits or can help. I'll give you the list in case they can help you at any stage. IPMS Australian Plastic Modelers Society, Oz Scale Models (Facebook Group), Model Cars Australia (Facebook group). Apologies if you already know about these but thought I'd pass them on in case you don't. Don

Thanks Stu. I'll give it a go. I'm thinking of masking the top of the windscreen and spraying it with clear blue to get the tinting back. Do you think that might work? I think I'll get in touch with Bill about that axle, I got that kit from the US - Shoreline Hobby Shop, cost me AU$100, got dudded by eBay, it was supposed to have been free post, not $50 post. Not the first time I've been ripped off by eBay, don't use them anymore. I'll get in touch with Bill and find out how to proceed and send him some money. Don

Yeah, wondered about the "spares", now I know. I rechecked the sprues in the kit, and as you would know, having built it yourself, there is only one axle. Thought there might have been a "STD" axle, still on the sprue.

Thanks Stu. I definitely want to finish building it, just at the moment not sure the best way to get around the axle problem. I have a '32 Roadster with the exact same axle, so considering using that so I can keep going with the Tudor, and hunt around for the replacement, if I can't do that, then I might have to take up the offers from either Topher or Ace. I might push on with it, and use the replacement axle from the '32 Roadster I have. The drill, wire and glue, unfortunately isn't an option because of my eyes, which is why this happened. Thanks Don

Mate, I'm not sure what a "common" '32 axle is, the axle in the kit is "lowered". When you say "common" is that lowered.

Hi Stu. I have Micro Kristal Klear, if Zap is better I can give it a go. Problem with the Mazda was/is, the windscreen fell out when I was messing with the decal. Trying to get that right and get the screen back in where it should be - well you can see the mess I finished up with. No apologies necessary mate, I appreciate all help and comments. Don't forget I'm a novice learning the ropes. I'm going to see if I can get another glare strip to go across the top of the windscreen, it will cover some of the damage and look a bit better. Thanks Don

As you can see, not a lot to work with, even worse in reality, and as I mentioned, eyes ain't great, I have cataracts, so a lot of blurred vision, but that's okay, I can work around it. Don

Might be a while before you see the "Orange Wonder" again. Had a bit of an incident with it yesterday, fitting the front steering, I broke off the LHF stub axle. Theres not enough meat there to fix it. so I'll have to see if I can source a new one. Really disappointed, took me forever to find it, well one I could afford. I think I'll have to give the early hotrods away with all the small front end stuff, unfortunately with my poor eyesight this is what happens. Gonna have to go with later models with more beefed up front ends. If any of you guys know where I might get one, please let me know, I really want to finish building this, like it a lot, and up until now it's been going okay. Don

It's been a while, but I've nearly got it done. Still a few bits to go, but nearly there. I wrecked the windscreen decal today, have to try and source another one. A couple of pics, sorry about the last one, a bit out of focus, but you get the idea. Don Lots of mistakes. I had trouble with the windscreen as you can see, which is why I need to get another decal to cover them up.

Ahhh memories Stu, memories. The old bench seat was great for cuddling up to yer chicky babe. 😉 The Q is looking great mate, love it. Don

Looking really good mate Don

Guess i'll need to experiment a bit. Thanks for the compliment on the tudor. Don

Hey guys, as long as you are here, a question - yep another paint question. Clear blue, clear yellow, etc, As it is labelled as "clear", do I have to have to put down a special color or primer and then the "clear color". Don't understand what a "clear " color is or how you use it. Thanks Don

I would love to be able to do that, but unfortunately because of my health its a no no, my day is pretty much done by five. It's a real bummer, cause, so much building to do, but the General (wife) is pretty strict. Don

Thanks David, it's the box color, I liked it and decided to stick with it. Don

Thanks Stu, going okay so far, got the 5 window in the stash

Finally got it under way, and it's looking okay, but still a long way to go to finish it. No time tomorrow, but might be able to steel an hour to get a bit done.

Looking nice David, won't be long now. Don

A bloody headache, that's what I achieved today. I decided this morning to prep a couple of bodies whilst waiting for paint, glue and such too dry on other builds. Should have stayed in bed, or picked another thing to do. The pics pretty well tell the story. This a Revell Foose designed kit "65 Chev Impala. No matter which way I move the bonnet/hood, I still have gaps. The bonnet/hood was separated from the rest, in the bag separated with just a small piece of sprue attached, which I removed carefully with a scalpel next came the test fit, the pics tell the story. It doesn't matter what position I put it; it just doesn't sit right and without any gaps. This is to put it mildly very disappointing. Could some of you learned gentlemen, give me some advice on a fix, if there is one. Thanks for any advice on a fix, if there is one. ks Thanks Don

Excellent article thank you. How long if you have a dehydrator. For acrylics I put it in set at 35deg cel I think that's about 100F for two to three hours, is this about right? Then I leave it in the dehydrator usually for a few more hours or overnight. Don

Thanks Stu, I was praying for a miracle fix. Oh well looks like, as you say, bite the bullet and get on with it. The mark on the guard is minor and I think I can polish it out. Thanks for giving me the "bad" news. 🙄😄

Thought I would post this whilst waiting for paint to try on the RX7, and I needed to ask your advice on what to do next with that bonnet repair. I'm really hapy with the finish on the bonnet, well the whole car, so I don't want to have to respray the bonnet for such a small "ding". but don't know how to fix it without doing the repair and respraying the bonnet/hood. Could one of you guys/gals give me an idea how to fix this. Thanks Don Attempted repair - a mess.

Picked this one up, at the right price. Been trying to get this for a long time, but all too dear. Have loved this car since I watched James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, a looong time ago. Don

Thanks guys, I needed your input. Rusty, yep, the red is not right, a repaint is in order today, and thanks for the nice comment, good analysis thanks. David, thanks, I get what you are saying, the red roof is all wrong, I'll redo it today - black as you guys have suggested - semi gloss then repair the bonnet. Don't know if I can manage a "spot" repair, but I'm gonna try, the paint looks good don't want to ruin it, but first the roof. Don

Genius! you really know yer sh*T Bill.