Donny

Okay thanks "everything is still plenty raised for foil and and a Molotow pen to bring to life." I was just curious as to what you were going to do there. As I said, I just getting back into the hobby, and trying to learn everything I can from you guys. Hope you didn't think it was a crit. Don

Eric, how do you get the detail back, that you painted over. I'm curious as I will be doing something similar very soon, thanks. Don

Hello Eric, almost identical to mine. Thats all you need, they work well, do the job. They don't work that well with the stinky paint, removing the smell, but I guess nothing does Don

Thanks Chris, Primer hasn't arrived yet, so I'll use the time to do that and let it dry. I'm still learning, (again), hadn't thought about the layer build up. Thanks for your help. Don

Mate I've got the Tamiya fine SP coming hopefully early this week. Do I need to remove all that undercoat before I spray it with the Tamiya. Thanks Don

Mate, looking good - they are a work of art. back in my aircraft modeling days, I bult about eight .40 size and a couple of .60 size aircraft - Cap21, Laser, that sort of thing, so I know how demanding it is to build something like that, but what you are doing is another level of difficulty. Goodluck with this can't wait to see it finished. Don

Okaay, I'm going to give the Tamiya Fine Surfacer a shot, (when it arrives), and see how I go with that. Not touching the airbrush at this stage until I get other things sorted out. Don

As Bill put it - Thing is, all of the advice can seem overwhelming, especially when it's often contradictory...so tend to believe those who show their work over those who don't. AND...the wide array of products can also be intimidating to a relative beginner. You sure put a mouthful there, Bill. "contradictory," yep a lot of that, "intimidating", definitely. Some of this makes my head spin. What is right and what is wrong, who knows, not me, I just have to read what you guys post and go with what I think MIGHT be right and take note of "recommendations". I live in a state of confusion, so I now look at the models you post and your comments, and then, yep looking good. Proof of the pudding, they say is in the eating, so if the model looks good and I THINK the comments are what I consider right, I'll go with that. I'm now at the point of reduce the reading of posts and just do it, (as I've just done), and get you guys to crit it and work on those suggestions. Just one thing I would like you to note, I have a cataract in my left eye, so my vision is not super good, so something that looks okay to me, might be way off, I need you guys to point that out please, thanks. Don

Thanks Luke, within reason of course, I don't mind spending a few dollars to get a good result and not have the frustration of NOT getting a good result. What's the point of putting the time in to build a model as good as I can and then finish up with Shitty paintwork. If I have good/top materials, then if I can use them correctly, that one less thing for me to worry about, and get on improving other area's. I assume I choose one of those you have recommended. Thanks for your help and advice. Don

Luke: There is a reason some of us are willing and like to spend the extra dollars on hobby grade primers or surfacers. As I'm new to all this, Recommendations please. As the above photos are all Tamiya paint, are you suggesting Tamiya primers/surfacers are worth looking at/using Thank you, Don

Thanks Les. Apart from the things you have pointed out, I think the primer is too rough anyway. Time to get to work.

Here is the '40 I'm working on first coat of primer. This is my first attempt in a VERY VERY long time, so please be kind but constructive, I'm a big boy, I can stand criticism, as long as it's constructive. To me I think this needs sanding, but I'm no expert. Thanks Don

I just thought that the sprue might not be a big enough area for a test

And as I'm not a chemist, I guess the only way to tell and be safe, is the spoon test.

Alan, when you guys say the paint is a bit "hot", don't know what that means. Don

Thanks mate, saves a bit of coin. Don

Nice save Bill, you were saying about having to rescribe, I don't have a scribe tool, should I get one, or can I use a blade? Don

Thanks Les, normally just the post.

For anyone getting into model car building or like me re-entering it, this is a dangerous and confusing subject. You really need to be a chemist to understand this stuff, me, I'll just take what I can onboard and go the trial-and-error route. I'll just have to take the chance on a few mistakes, like crazing and wear the consequences. Can crazing be repaired with sanding? I never experienced this way back when, maybe it didn't happen then with different materials. Don

Does this show the "thread", or just that post?

Thanks for the plain explanation, Steve. I read a lot on here and the 'net about this and am really confused as to what and how to do/use. Some say you have to use hardener or the paint won't cure others say no, then there's levelling, and and, it goes on and on and so many different products, boing, my brain just seized, too much information. I'm about to paint my first body, so I'll go with what you have recommended here and cross my fingers. 🙄 New question, how do I save a post, it's a pain having to go back and try to find one with info you want to keep. Thanks. Don

Thanks Luke, I tried Woolworths, Coles and a couple of places that supply picnic and catering supplies, all told me not available anymore. Usually eBay want to charge you six to eight bucks delivery. Today I bought a pack of plastic containers, thought I'd try them and see if they work, the lid Don

yep good idea, unfortunately for Aussie builders, plastic spoons are not available in Australia, banned - bad for the environment. Everything plastic is being phased out here

I'll have to go change my shirt, mate, I'm drooling. 😁

Oh my, I can see a lot more builds coming up Bill. That Hudson looks a treat, as do all of them. Have to add them to my growing list. Don