Bernard Kron

That's as fine as it gets. Not just sanitary in execution, but spot on in proportions and details. The rolling stock in particular just nails it. What are the wheels and tires? Also, I keep seeing Guide headlights on several models in these posts. Are there after-market re-pops or must we pilfer the 2009 re-issue of the Revellogram '30 Model A Toouring Street Rod for them?

I do believe these are the last remaining examples of Deuce roadsters from by collection of builds… I sure have built a lot of these things! Dry lakes racer with full bellypan: Another lakes racer, this time ‘40’s style: “Ohio Look” Barry Lobeck tribute from 2010:

Buying a kit for its parts rather than building it can be an expensive and space consuming habit. It’s one I’m afraid I’m guilty of. In this case I it’s the Revell “Custom Car Show” re-issue of the old Monogram ’30 Ford Model A Touring Street Rod, the 2009 release with the yellow car on the cover. I bought it mainly for the wire wheels and the Guide headlight, and perhaps the 1/24th scale tri-carb Chevy small block, the dropped front axle and the buggy spring rear end. Once I got it I realized that the wire wheels might look great on this model, but they wouldn’t be something I could readily use on something else. This left the Guide headlights and not much else. So, after some thought I realized that those chrome .wire wheels would look pretty good on some whitewalls on an early 60’s show car version of the basic kit. One I saw some Tamiya TS-59 Light Pearl Red on a model the concept came together, Mainly out-of-the-box, the main changes are the ’32 Ford grill shell from the Revellogram ’30 Ford woody street rod kit and the white wall tires from the Revellogram ’29 Ford RPU/’30 For Sedan “Rat Rod” kits. Here’s an initial mockup with the base coats of the TS-59 on the body and fenders. The undercarriage and underside of the fenders are white with a chromed chassis, gold painted engine block and white interior and possibly a white top. I’ll keep the Guide headlights for another project, as had been my original intention. Thanx for lookin’, B.

So many fine Deuce roadsters in this thread, some known to me and many I've never seen before. Yum, yum! As I' mentioned I have built far too many Deuces in my short modeling life, especially roadsters. Here are some more not posted earlier. Revell Deuce Roadster body with the rest of the car almost entirely built from the Replicas and Miniatures Co. of Maryland catalog including most of the motor, chassis, grill shell, wheels and tires, and interior. Another Revell Deuce roadster, but this time completely revised to look like the “Street Rod” on the box lart for the original 1960 first release of the AMT Trophy Series roadster. Massive kit bashing on this one, but almost exclusively Revell stuff except where using AMT parts was unavoidable (hub caps, valve covers, cycle fenders). Even the decals were re-drawn and reprinted to fit the very different scale and shape of the Revell body. Just about as basic as it gets, a largely out-of-the-box Revell highboy built as a slump buster in 2014. That’s why it’s called the Therapy Roadster. It went together in less than a week with only the wheels, front tires, dashboard and steering wheel not from the original kit. Flat black made for no-worries paint, although I did tweak the stance and chop the windshield. And yes, it had the desired effect.

As I may have mentioned before, I have really built too many Deuces over the years. Below are some additional coupes not posted earlier. Chopped Revell 3-window highboy from 2011: From 2012, a chopped resin bodied 5-window lo-boy based on the AMT version. This was done as a tribute to thepartsbox.com, those fine resin casters from Australia. With the exception of the scratch-built chassis, suspension and wheels, all the parts are from their catalog (motor, body and tires). It is, of course, right hand drive.

I'm with you Steve. I generally feel if it looks right it probably is right, LOL! Did you scratch build the heads? The distributor placement implies using Revell kit parts for most of the motor. I have a gazillion small-block Fords from these kits and Ive often butchered them to make other types of motors.

Truly inspired re-do of this kit while staying true to its modern style. The chopped and channeled approach improves the proportions greatly. Also dig the injected small block. What's the source for that mod?

Great stance on this model. Dialing in the Revell Deuce is a critical step when building these models. You nailed it here. I'd love to know more about some details. Tire choices? They complement the Revell kit wheels (?) perfectly. Also, what was your idea behind the DOHC motor? The heads look like M/T prototypes, the distributor placed like on a small block Ford and the header spacing from a Nailhead.

Now, if I've built far too many Deuces in general, I've really built too many roadsters. Here are a some pics each of a few (all Revell 1/25th): This is my most recent completion from a few months back - Classic black flathead powered highboy: Full fendered: Bare metal Hemi powered highboy: Candy apple lo-boy:

Here's a couple... Gennie '32 Roadster Pickup from resin conversion for Revell Deuces by Altered States Models: Bare metal '34 Pickup mainly scratch built using resin chopped '34 cab from Drag City Casting:

Lot's of nice renditions of the classic Revell Deuce coupes and a nice AMT Vicky, too! I have built far too many of the Revell Deuce coupes so I will restrain myself and post a coupla pics of each of a few... "Devil Deuce" 5-window highboy: Lo-boy chopped 3-window: Heavy chopped dry lakes highboy: "Race of Gentlemen" lakes 3-window from Jimmy Flintstone pre-chopped resin:

I dig 'em both! Super clean flamed contemporary rod vs. a mean chopped matte-painted aggressive funky beast. Here are my long-roof Deuces. Chopped Tudor based on Jimmy Flintstone re-pop of the Revell Orange Crate body shell: Chopped Revell Tudor Highboy: Full-fendered chopped Revell Tudor Resto-Rod:

Lots to chew on here. Thanks to both Tim and Norm for the info. I've always felt that, a great as the parts pack concept is for confirmed kit-bashers like me, complete model kits, especially if they are as detailed as this era of Revell drag subject kits were, have always represented a better business proposition for the model company, and, ultimately, a better value proposition for modelers as well. Today, for example, Round 2 has brought back many of the old AMT Parts Packs and, at around $12-15 each they are about half the cost of a complete kit. They're advantage to me is that I can get exactly what I want without the bulk and waste of a complete kit. But it only takes a few significant and critical parts to justify the outlay for a whole kit. Of course it depends heavily on what you're looking for in terms of parts. To buy a complete model kit just for the wheels and tires has never been a good idea, today or even in the early '60's. But back then, as now, a deep, deep drag racing classic like the double kits discussed here, or the Tony Nancy Double Double Dragster kit, was a smart purchase, even if you bought it as a parts kit. I think the packaging, shipping and marketing costs, which wouldn't be that much different for a Parts Pack vs. a complete kit, might be part of the reason why. It's easier to build some significant dollar-margin (vs. percentage margin) into a more expensive item than a cheaper one. I'm guessing that Atlantis will share my POV and will be far more inclined to craft complete model kits from their newly acquired molds than Parts Packs. But the possibility of once again seeing the long-lost Sting Ray V8 or perhaps even the Chrysler Hemi, in whatever form, is an exciting thing to contemplate.

Thanks everybody! Glad you all dig it!

I just completed building this kit and Kurt commented on my Under Glass thread. Here's a link to it: And here's the w.i.p. thread:

Ferrari 250LM (more photos below) This is the Academy kit of the 1964 Ferrari 250LM, a GT coupe intended to succeed the 250 GTO as an FIA homologated Grand Touring car to be sold both as a racing car and a street run machine. It was planned as Ferrari’s first rear-engine GT. First introduced in the Fall of 1963, Ferrari had assumed that the car could be approved (homologated) as a streetable Gran Turismo machine in much the same way as prior dual purpose GT cars like the 250GT SWB and the 250 GTO. This is to say that the FIA would allow Ferrari to begin taking orders and producing the cars against the orders written The assumption was that in this manner eventually the required number of cars would be built and offered for sale. But the FIA became far more strict about what they intended by a production GT and increased the number of examples needed to 100 from 50, and expected production to be started in advance of actual sale of cars to customers, and to be continuous thereafter until all 100 were produced. As a result only 32 250LMs were ever produced and the car was never homologated as a production GT. Despite this the car was quite successful as a prototype race car and indeed was the last Ferrari to win the 24 hours overall which it did in 1965 driven by Masten Gregory and Jochen Rindt. 2 other 250LMs finished in the top 10 that year, placing 2nd and 6th. My model is not a replica of any single car but has elements of typical privateer 250LMs of the era. It’s finished in Tamiya TS-8 with Duplicolor Universal White racing stripes. The kit is a curbside so there’s no motor or chassis, but it’s otherwise quite accurate and detailed. I made one major change by swapping out the stock wire wheels for Campagnolo “Cromodora” magnesium wheels which were introduced at about the same time as the 250LM. Several privately entered 250LMs raced with the Campagnolos, finding that their lower unsprung weight and greater rigidity improved handling. The wheels and tires I used are resin aftermarket pieces made by Curbside MasterCasterS and are sold on eBay here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/jwhi7752/m.html?item=143706523517&hash=item217593877d%3Ag%3Ao64AAOSw9SVeIv7A&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 . Quality and delivery time were both excellent and they are highly recommended. The Dunlop Racing tire marking are from IndyCals. The only other modifications included lowering the stance 2 scale inches and cutting out the door panels, as was done on the 1:1, and making door pull cables. The seat belts are decals from IndyCals. The white roundels backing the numbers are from Gofer Decals as are the large white Dunlop logos. All the rest of the decals, the license plate, numbers and Magnetti Marelli and Shell logos, are all home made. Thanx for lookin’ B.

Your welcome! Which gauge panel is that? If it's the 8-guage panel from Replicas and Miniatures Norm still has them but without the formerly included replacement resin dashboard (that's why I made my own) and also, very importantly, without the gauge art. I made my own gauge art, so if you go that route drop me a pm and I'll mail you a copy.

I've done several paint jobs going for this effect. Here is the most recent one, which I completed about a year ago. The base paint is red oxide primer followed by grey primer and finally color coats of cheap gloss black lacquer paint (Brite Touch Gloss Black I got at O-Reilly's auto parts). The cheap paint has a very light orange peel to it that provides some "tooth" for the subsequent weathering powders. The grey primer layer allows for of the faded paint effect, and the red oxide represents lightly rusted edges. Once the paint was applied and allowed to cure I wet sanded it with 1000 grit which smoothed it out and then selectively burned through to the grey or red oxide where it would have worn or faded on a real 1:1. Finally I lightly applied light grey (for dirt and dust) or rust colored weathering powders. Nost of the weathering powders were wiped away leaving only light residues. I suspect I could have done pretty much the same thing without them. The trick is to be restrained about the effect throughout the process. That way the paint looks relatively intact and the wear, dirt and light surface rust more closely approximate an o;d. 60 year old paint job. The first 3 photos are outdoor daylight shots so they are quite objective in representing the final effect. The 4th one is a TRJ style "studio" shot. Below is an earlier "rat rod" project with more aggressive rusting, but using the same technique. The color coat was Krylon enamel finished with Testors matte clear applied after the wet sanding but before the weathering powders. The matte clear was lightly polished with a paper towel to take some of the dull off.

Nice 1:1. The Revell roadster kit should be an ideal way to replicate it. An easy way to modify the dash is to cut the entire dash face out of the Revell roadster, glue in a plain blank sheet of styrene and then modify it to what you want. This is the method I've used countless times and it's simple and effective. The Revell roadster kits dash has a groove that is a ready guide for the back of a #11 blade to cut the face out. Here are some examples, all done using this method: Revell roadster kit instrument cluster cut out, glued in place and foiled. Photoetch gauge panel included with Model Car Garage '32 Ford p/e grill set: 8-guage p/e panel from Replicas and Miniatures Co. of Maryland:

Thanks Randy and Ray! This project is completed except for final cleanup and detailing. The picture below is a composite of its current state. The trim rings around the headlights are incredibly fiddly and fragile photoetch pieces held in place with canopy cement. I have to clean up any residue on the fenders near them. After two or three hours of struggle getting them into place and secured, I really should step away from the model for a day or two before I do that. Then I can look for flaws and details that need attention with a clear mind… In general the body picked up some dirt and residue during final assembly. My next post will be as a completed model. Thanx to all who have followed along, B.

A small update. This model requires a fair amount of detail work, especially with things like the lights and trim. I got the fine mesh detail painted and installed. The rear mesh and the mesh for the hood vents are painted body color. The grill is the plain stainless steel color of the 60 mesh I used. In picture below there’s a small Cavalino prancing horse metal decal installed, but it’s so small it barely can be seen and I’ll probably remove it. Most 250 LMs had plain grills anyway. The taillights have been painted with Molotow Chrome and transparent red. Molotow needs to dry for a good 24 hours in order to hold its shine and stand up to any handling so final clean up and assembly, which is all that’s left at this point, will have to wait until tomorrow. Thanks for lookin’, B.

Thanks Dann. I agree, a lot of fun to put together. I'd like to do a Mk. 1 version with cycle fenders in the future.

Thanks Gareth. While this kit is just short of full detail (no separate space frame) there's enough there to give an appreciation of how advanced it was for a 1957 design. The suspension, especially, might very well be from sports cars of 10 years later. Between their ultralight weight, near-center engine location, and superior road holding, I suspect they provide an almost modern driving experience, especially since the Series 2 was fitted with disc brakes.

Thanks Dan! And likewise... Thanks Trevor. I think it's impossible for me to ever leave a kit totally stock, LOL!

Thanks Trevor! Nice to see you here on MCM.