Bernard Kron

I’ve completed the chassis, including the exhaust system, suspension and steering. In keeping with the vintage A-V8 theme I’ve used lever shocks (often mistakenly called friction shocks – they’re actually hydraulic) courtesy of Replicas and Miniatures Co. of Maryland. Most of the parts used for the steering were adapted from the AMT ’29 Foord roadster kit. The exhaust system is fabricated from butyl coated wire and mufflers from the Revell ’40 Ford kits. The wheels have been glued into place. At this point the stance is locked in. The pictures below constitute a final stance check. With a fairly aggressive Z at the rear and a 4” drop on the front axle the car is a kind of low highboy. I’ve always liked that look. The smaller body of the Model A when compared to the ’32 ford, combined the depth and shape of the Deuce rails and the low stance create an aggressive race car look that’s hard to beat. I’m at the point of final assembly with only minor details left like door handles and taillights. I should have this done in the next several days. Thanx for lookin’, B.

No. The rat rod tank was made by me from scratch to comform to the back of the bucket. The tank on the V-12 was also scratch built by me. The tank on the Show Rod is a 3D print made by Chris Drysdale at Maple Leaf Modelworks available on Shapeways (see : https://www.shapeways.com/product/RAPQ683EW/1-25-oblong-fuel-tank-w-brackets?optionId=63103067&li=shops )

Rob Rob, is this a current Round 2 release? I noticed it might have come out a couple of months ago and it looked like, besides being Ala-Kart only, it had much of the original tolling with the larger motor molding and some suspension differences and possibly pad printed tires and chrome wheels. As far as what I've ever done with any Ala Kart parts it's exclusively the bucket shell and almost nothing else. I've seen something terrific builds that stay much closer to the brilliant Barris design and yet extend or vary it in wonderfully creative ways, but in my case it;s a much simpler approach, an "A-Bucket" kind of thing... V-12 Lakes Modified "A-Bucket" Rat Rod "A-Bucket" Show Rod

I checked on the various sites I've posted that image and they show up on every one without exception, as well as here, of course. I also right clicked the image posted here and opened it to a new tab without any problem. I checked on two different computers in our household. Haven't had the chance to check on another network yet, though.

Her you go: IRRC correctly similar ones can be found in various Revell hot-rodded Flathead V8 versions, like the Deuce Tudor and the '40 Fords.

It seems I’ve gotten quite a good deal done on this project, despite the fact that it felt like I was bouncing around from one thing to another without a conscious focus. But the result is that I’m nearing the home stretch on this thing I got the graphics done and decals made. Their very simple with the old late 40’s-early 50’s St- Lube decals on the rear deck and hood sides and the number 529 on the body sides. The interior is complete now. The dash board, adapted from the AMT ‘29 Model A kit got a more swaure and somewhat larger panel. The gauges are leftovers from a Model Car Garage ’32 Ford photo-etch set. The steering wheel and miscellaneous interior bits are from the AMT ‘29 Model A kit. The motor got done., The block and transmission are Revellogram ‘37 Ford truck parts with the Offenhauser finned heads, Fenton headers and the high rise manifold are Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland items. The chassis and suspension are about ¾ done. The rear axle came from a Revell ’40 Ford, the front axle is a wire-reinforced resin 4” dropped axle from ThePartsBox.com. The front and rear springs are from the AMT ‘29 Model A kit. The steering and locating rods are still left to be done. In some of the pictures you can see that I had to grind away parts of the driveshaft and transmission/bell housing to clear the floor boards. A peak at some of the nasty stuff some of us have to resort to get ‘er done, LOL! Thanx for lookin’ B.

It seems I’ve gotten quite a good deal done on this project, despite the fact that it felt like I was bouncing around from one thing to another without a conscious focus. But the result is that I’m nearing the home stretch on this thing I got the graphics done and decals made. Their very simple with the old late 40’s-early 50’s St- Lube decals on the rear deck and hood sides and the number 529 on the body sides. The interior is complete now. The dash board, adapted from the AMT ‘29 Model A kit got a more swaure and somewhat larger panel. The gauges are leftovers from a Model Car Garage ’32 Ford photo-etch set. The steering wheel and miscellaneous interior bits are from the AMT ‘29 Model A kit. The motor got done., The block and transmission are Revellogram ‘37 Ford truck parts with the Offenhauser finned heads, Fenton headers and the high rise manifold are Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland items. The chassis and suspension are about ¾ done. The rear axle came from a Revell ’40 Ford, the front axle is a wire-reinforced resin 4” dropped axle from ThePartsBox.com. The front and rear springs are from the AMT ‘29 Model A kit. The steering and locating rods are still left to be done. In some of the pictures you can see that I had to grind away parts of the driveshaft and transmission/bell housing to clear the floor boards. A peak at some of the nasty stuff some of us have to resort to get ‘er done, LOL! Thanx for lookin’ B.

This model kinda sneaks up on you. While the overall look is in keeping with a parts box build, the more detailed closeups reveal exceptional detail and execution. Especially considering the relatively short period of time in which it was built. Nice one!

These respond well to modern detailing. Excellent upgrade! And it looks sharp in the historic "Californian" livery.

Some of the colors may surprise you. Here's a link to more Don Cox photos, many of which aren't in the Genat book: American Hot Rod Foundation Don Cox Coillection Photos A little less than half of them are in color and they're pretty much all from 1948. They include some early metallics and, of course, early flame styles. Phil Weaind's 27 T (w/ matching club jackets, natch!) Veda and Karl Orr's famous Deuce roadster The Phil Remington (yes that Phil Remington of Scarab/Cobra fame and Shelby Automotive lifer) modified lakester Eppard Bros. mid-engine 4-banger bellypanned "streamliner": Gold graphics in '48, not red

Thanx everybody, Glad you dig it! This project is progressing nicely. I’ve gotten the basic paint job completed. The main color is Tamiya AS-29 Gray Green over undercoats of red oxide primer and metallic silver which show through to various degrees where I have sanded for a light weathering effect. This car is being done in the currently popular “Preservation” style, wherein a classic old hot rod is restored only to make it safe and reliable to drive, but where the original age and patina of the bodywork, interior and running gear is preserved as much as possible. The color I chose is based on the color photographs published in a wonderful book called The Birth of Hot Rodding by Robert Genat and Don Cox, It’s a large format coffee table book about the dry lakes racing scene in Southern California on either side of WWII. What makes the book special besides Genat’s engaging and accurate text is Don Cox’s photography. Cox was a professional photographer as well as an enthusiastic hot rodder. After WWII he often shot color photographs using the then new Kodachrome color slide film. Kodachrome is fine grained and it’s colors accurate and stable over the decades. So the color photographs in this book are one of the few times we can get a realistic sense of the colors these cars were painted when they were first run. I chose this pale grey green as typical of the shades of these cars in the late 40’s. I also chose the rolling stock. The wheels are the marvelous late Halibrand solid face magnesium wheels first run ob the circle tracks in the late 40’s. They are new pieces created by Jason Lookabill (lookabillj@gmail.com) and include beautiful oversized bias ply rear tires that come with separate sidewalls so you can run them as whitewalls if you like. In my case I’ve painted them as blackwalls. Jason has also created smaller front wheels that will fit AMT and Revell tires, but in this case I’m using the same, large, wheels front and rear with modified standard AMT Firstone tires at the front. And lastly I’ve completed most of the interior. I modified the tuck and roll bench seat from the Revell ’32 Ford 5-window coupe kit to fit the AMT kit interior from which I had removed the seat. Thecolor is Testors British Crimson acrylic applied to render the look of worn leather. The dashboard and steering wheel will be modified stock AMT ’29 Ford pieces. I also got pretty far along on a Revell Parts-Pak 354 Cadillac V8. But once I saw the painted bodywork I decided to revert to a period correct late 40’s Flathead. That, along with the suspension and overall stance will be the subject of my next update. Until next time, thanx for lookin’, B.

This project is progressing nicely. I’ve gotten the basic paint job completed. The main color is Tamiya AS-29 Gray Green over undercoats of red oxide primer and metallic silver which show through to various degrees where I have sanded for a light weathering effect. This car is being done in the currently popular “Preservation” style, wherein a classic old hot rod is restored only to make it safe and reliable to drive, but where the original age and patina of the bodywork, interior and running gear is preserved as much as possible. The color I chose is based on the color photographs published in a wonderful book called The Birth of Hot Rodding by Robert Genat and Don Cox, It’s a large format coffee table book about the dry lakes racing scene in Southern California on either side of WWII. What makes the book special besides Genat’s engaging and accurate text is Don Cox’s photography. Cox was a professional photographer as well as an enthusiastic hot rodder. After WWII he often shot color photographs using the then new Kodachrome color slide film. Kodachrome is fine grained and it’s colors accurate and stable over the decades. So the color photographs in this book are one of the few times we can get a realistic sense of the colors these cars were painted when they were first run. I chose this pale grey green as typical of the shades of these cars in the late 40’s. I also chose the rolling stock. The wheels are the marvelous late Halibrand solid face magnesium wheels first run ob the circle tracks in the late 40’s. They are new pieces created by Jason Lookabill (lookabillj@gmail.com) and include beautiful oversized bias ply rear tires that come with separate sidewalls so you can run them as whitewalls if you like. In my case I’ve painted them as blackwalls. Jason has also created smaller front wheels that will fit AMT and Revell tires, but in this case I’m using the same, large, wheels front and rear with modified standard AMT Firstone tires at the front. And lastly I’ve completed most of the interior. I modified the tuck and roll bench seat from the Revell ’32 Ford 5-window coupe kit to fit the AMT kit interior from which I had removed the seat. Thecolor is Testors British Crimson acrylic applied to render the look of worn leather. The dashboard and steering wheel will be modified stock AMT ’29 Ford pieces. I also got pretty far along on a Revell Parts-Pak 354 Cadillac V8. But once I saw the painted bodywork I decided to revert to a period correct late 40’s Flathead. That, along with the suspension and overall stance will be the subject of my next update. Until next time, thanx for lookin’, B.

Thanks for the link.Tim. IIRC, I did the Marvel Mystery Oil decals for the pylons for that diorama. But I never followed up to see how they were used. There are some truly spectacular models among your photos. Great inspiration, indeed!

Most excellent, RRR!

Nicely done!

Jim, what file format do they work from and what did you send them? Peteski, you make reference to a white undercoat. Did you detect that in his photos (like you did the half-tones). Jim didn't refer to it in his post.

This is my second project for the TROG California Drag Racing 2023 community build. I just finished my first entry, a '30 Ford Phaeton beach racer, at the end of the year. Since not everyone follows community builds I thought I'd create a parallel thread here. The Community Build thread is really quite interesting with lots of really first rate projects in progress and very much worth following. You can find it here: This time around I'm building a classic A-V8 roadster as commonly run on the dry lakes on either side of WWII. The chassis is scratched together from Revell ’32 Ford frame rails. The front and rear crossmembers are from the Revellogram ‘29/’30 RPU/Sedan “Rat Rod” kits, the X-member is Revell ’40 Ford and the center crossmember for the transmission is from the AMT Ala-Kart. The body is the AMT ’29 Ford Model-A Roadster with a Revell ’32 Ford grill shell. Rear suspension will be from the Revellogram “Rat Rod” kits and front suspension will feature a 4” dropped I-beam. Paired with the Z’d rear of the frame it should have a pretty low stance despite the fact that it’s a highboy. Most likely it will be flathead powered although I’m considering an early OHV V8, like a Cadillac. More to come soon… Thanx for lookin’, B.

Nice to see your build style applied to the Moderns. Truly fine work.

This is my next project for the community build. It’s a classic A-V8 roadster as commonly run on the dry lakes on either side of WWII. The chassis is scratched together from Revell ’32 Ford frame rails. The front and rear crossmembers are from the Revellogram ‘29/’30 RPU/Sedan “Rat Rod” kits, the X-member is Revell ’40 Ford and the center crossmember for the transmission is from the AMT Ala-Kart. The body is the AMT ’29 Ford Model-A Roadster with a Revell ’32 Ford grill shell. Rear suspension will be from the Revellogram “Rat Rod” kits and front suspension will feature a 4” dropped I-beam. Paired with the Z’d rear of the frame it should have a pretty low stance despite the fact that it’s a highboy. Most likely it will be flathead powered although I’m considering an early OHV V8, like a Cadillac. More to come soon… Thanx for lookin’, B.

2022 was a year of starts and stops when it came to my modeling, the result being only 5 models got done, with three others waiting to get completed in the next few weeks. For some reason I tended to focus on a specific car for multiple builds. I started the year building 2 Jaguar XK120s, paused completing anything, and then reeled off three Ford Model A’s in row. In between I started and researched other projects but these are the ones I completed. The 2 Jags were notable in that they were the first metal-bodied models I’ve ever built, the roadster being the Monogram kit and the coupe based on a Bburago die cast. Thanx for lookin’, and best wishes to you all for a happy and fulfilling 2023. B. Jaguar XK120 Roadster Customized Jaguar XK120 Coupe ’30 Ford Tudor Salt Flats Racer ’29 Ford Roadster (Di Falco Tribute) ’30 Ford Phaeton The Race of Gentlemen (T.R.O.G) Beach Racer

Sea-N-Sun Special - The Race Of Gentlemen (T.R.O.G.) style ’30 Ford Phaeton (More photos below) Calb56 here on the forum started a community build in recognition of The Race of Gentlemen (TROG) California Drag Racing event in Riverside California at the Flabob Airstrip which ran on December 9-10. The community build extends through to the end of 2023 and has attracted a lot of interest. Here's alin to it: This is my first entry of what I hope will be several projects across the next year , this first one acknowledges the original Spirit of Wildwood, the funky, no holds barred, old car and motorcycle beach racing in Wildwood NJ. This car, the Sea-N-Sun Motel ‘29 Ford phaeton is from the 2016 Wildood TROG. The Sea-N-Sun is a real motel in Wildwood, N.J. right next to the amusement park and the beach where TROG runs its event. It’s got a mildly hopped up 4-banger and is otherwise pretty much just a stripped down stock A-Bone. For my donor car I’m used a Monogram 30 Ford Phaeton gluebomb I got off of eBay, It’s a ’30 instead of a ’29. The body and interior panels are from the original issue Model A Phaeton from 1961. Virtually everything else from the gluebomb proved useless for this project. This required a deep dive into my parts stash to get this car built. Here’s a composite of the real car and the eBay photo of the donor car. The grill, hood, chassis and motor are from the Monogram ’30 Ford Coupe re-issue from a few years back. The front wheels and tires are from an AMT ’34 Ford 5-window coupe. The rear tires are my favorite period bias ply rear tires for these early hot rods, Herb Deeks truck tires, and their mounted to Revell ’32 Ford Tudor Kelsey Hayes wire wheels, stripped of their chrome and narrowed to fit. The motor, as on the original, is in a mild state of tune. While the stock style carburetion can just be glimpsed in the few photos of the 1:1 that are out there, I took the liberty to guess at the top side of the motor, which is invisible on the photos. I installed a Riley F-head from the Revell ‘’30 Ford Sedan “Rat Rod” kits. The rear seat is the original Monogram Phaeton rear seat which had served as the front seat on the gluebomb, while the front seat was cobbled together from an AMT ’32 Ford Phaeton rear seat. The graphics are homemade decals. Thanx for lookin’ and all the best for a happy and fulfilling 2023. B.

Hot off my bench, my last completion of 2022 and my first entry in the TROG California Drag community build. Direct from the Jersey Shore, the Sea-N-Sun Motel Special!

Just a quickie post. The Sea-N-Sun Special was my final completion for 2022. Below is a summary composite showing some details and the stance. I’m editing the final beauty shots right now and will post them later this afternoon or evening. Hope you all had a Happy New Year, B.

Yes, glorious indeed. This is precisely why I'm such a fan of Showroom Stock despite the fact that it seems I'm not inclined to attempt it myself. It's the shear skill and discipline required to do such spectacular replica work that I admire. Bravo!

I’ve made solid progress and the Sea 'N’ Sun Special is rapidly taking shape. As I mentioned earlier, the donor car I’m using is a Monogram 30 Ford Phaeton gluebomb I got off of eBay. The seller tried to be informative about the condition of the car but when I got it it turned out to be far worse than the pictures showed. The body is actually from the original issue Model A Phaeton from 1961. The chassis, however was an AMT ’32 Ford piece, chopped up, crammed under the body and generally useless, as were most of the other parts. So I had to take a deep dive into my parts stash to get this thing started. The deep dive resulted in a complete chassis and motor from the Monogram ’30 Ford Coupe re-issue from a few years back. The front wheels and tires are from an AMT ’34 Ford 5-window coupe. The rear tires are my favorite period bias ply rear tires for these early hot rods, Herb Deeks truck tires, and they're mounted to Revell ’32 Ford Tudor Kelsey Hayes wire wheels, stripped of their chrome and narrowed to fit. The motor, as on the original, is in a mild state of tune. While the stock style carburetion can just be glimpsed in the few photos of the 1:1 that are out there, I took the liberty to guess at the top side of the motor, which is invisible on the photos. I installed a Riley F-head from the Revell ‘’30 Ford Sedan “Rat Rod” kits. The rear seat is the original Monogram Phaeton rear seat which had served as the front seat on the gluebomb (!). The front seat was cobbled together from an AMT ’32 Ford Phaeton rear seat (got that?). Here’s a composite of the final decal art. I noticed that the graphics on the 1:1 were hand painted and that they were distressed, probably as a result of sand and wind at the beach, so I added t=distressing to the lettering. The effect works well on the black hood, I have yet to apply decals to the main body. And here are a couple of the mockups of progress so far. The photos show the parts held together entirely by gravity and masking tape (no glue…). The body decals need to be applied and then it will be time for final assembly. I’m hoping to get it done before the New Year. Thanx for lookin’ and here’s hoping you all are a having a Happy Holiday Season, B.