Bernard Kron

That makes sense. My comment above about "funk" was obviously motivated by the classic Wildwood events. As the T.R.O.G., founders have gradually built a business around organizing similar events elsewhere they have adapted their rules to the realities on the ground. The early Jersey Shore events were pretty hardcore with their invitation-only format and emphasis on motorcycles, 4-bangers and fenderless "jalopies". As more folks were attracted to the possibility of running their cars "wide open", at least within the limitations of the short runs, the beach format, their abilities as drivers and the technical constraints of their cars, the organizers have widened the range of cars "invited", even at Wildwood, which is relatively hardcore compared to other events, like Santa Barbara and now the Riverside (Flabob) event. I think the basic appeal of being able to "run-what-you-brung", downplaying the actual speed or competitiveness of your entry, has survived rather well considering the enormous growth in popularity of these events. This build-off should reflect that spirit, too, IMHO. The biggest challenge for me, back in 2018 with the NNL Theme entries (I built 2 cars for it) and now as well, will be capturing the essential T.R.O.G. spirit and not just building another model like I would anyway absent this build-off. I enjoy the challenge of doing that! Thanx for starting this!

The NJ one is the original. From the website ( https://www.theraceofgentlemen.com/terms-1 )" The organizers have put on other events in a similar vein with similar entry rules, including in Santa Barbara and Pismo Beach California and this year's T.R.O.G. presents California Drags 2022 at Flabob Airport in Jurupa Valley, California on December 9th and 10th. This year's T.R.O.G. in Wildwood (Sept. 30th - Oct. 2) was canceled due to the impact of Hurricane Ian.

I just spent some "productive time" looking at TROG photos and film clips and the vast majority of the actual cars making speed runs have no headlights but the number with headlights is definitely not zero. Some of those with headlights had them taped over and there were plenty of runners where the headlight brackets were visible and the lights themselves removed. I would say that, like at TROG itself, headlights should be tolerated but not encouraged, LOL. Looking at all that stuff reminded me just how funky the typical TROG entrant's machine can be. Something to keep in mind. That's in contrast to the incredibly deluxe and beautifully turned out Lew Thompson roadster that Gene Winfield got reunited with at the 2018 TROG. Given that TROG is an invitation-only event the preponderance of funk is a definite indicator of the organizer's intentions. After viewing all that TROGness, one thing is certain: across the next 12 months I'll be building (and entering, if that's OK) more than one TROG racer.

I tend to reserve my Revell '32 Ford chassis assemblies for highboy applications, where the side rail details are visible. For channeled, lowboy applications much of the chassis is hidden so the critical elements involve the shape of the front half of the rails (their curvature and the front horns). Over the years I have come to the point where I mainly scratch build my channeled hot rod chassis. In 2021 I did a chopped and channeled 3-window using the Revell 1/25th body and the Hemi from the Revell 5-window, so the engine mounting details and dimensions would be those you would find on the kit chassis. The front part of the rails were cut from thick styrene sheet shaped from a tracing I did of the side rails of the Revell Deuce chassis. The rear has a rather crude vertical Z. This was because once the model was assembled the details of the chassis would be buried under the channeled bodied from the firewall rearwards. I built an x-member from styrene strip and used my Dremel to shape the center member to cradle the transmission. It's a simpler and less-detailed when compared to the properly detailed approach Bill Engwer posted above, but I thought I'd post it to show that, when the underside of the model will only be viewed straight on, a simpler approach can work fairly well without cannibalizing another kit from my stash. For higher detail I have adapted the k-member from the Revellogram '37 Fords or the x-member from the Revellogram. '40 Fords. This is the entirely scratch built chassis referred to above: This is a bare metal Deuce Highboy completed in 2019. The chassis is the Revell 1/25th '32 Ford which has a 3" z at the rear and a traditional buggy-spring rear suspension with a quick change. This used the '37 Ford k-member.

Beautifully styled and executed - a fine contemporary kustom quoting from 60's elements. Bravo!

Looking forward to this one. I recently finished a similar project, a tribute to an as found patina '30 Ford Roadster that inspired me from a Jalopy Journal article (the di Falco Roadster(. I used an gAMT ;29 Roadster body but I didn't go all the way and make the conversion to the '30. It's good to see that a Revell cowl will fit. Since you say "31" I assume that's the Sedan kit that was used, yes?

LOL! Thanks!

Count me in for an AMT bodied '29 Highboy lakes racer on Deuce rails, probably Flathead powered, but maybe a 4-banger. I won't get to it immediately because I have other things going, but it should surface before the year is out and the 1 year window is more than enough time. Thanks for starting this. Meanwhile here's a '29 A 4-banger I built that won the TROG Theme award at the 2018 NNL West (it's exceedingly rare for me to win a prize in anything. LOL...):

I haven't posted to this thread since 2020. Since I usually do at least 1 or 2 Deuces a year here's a chopped, channeled and slammed 3-window I finished in 2021. I've just started a 5-window in the past week so I might get one done for 2022...

Nicely done, Greg. Thanks for bumping this thread.

Brilliant work. Looking forward to more!

Thanx KK!

Handsome car with lovely stance and great choice of interior details and rolling stock.

This is great news, especially the brushing-on part, something I've always done with Testors Metalizers. I assume you are referring to the sets like this one: Scale Hobbyist sells both the sets and the individual colors (see: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/browse.php?s=3&t=1&micr=3715&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber_a&so=d&kw=vallejo ) I assume any Vallejo stockist would do the same.

Looking forward to your usual carefully considered and executed work. Lovely stance already. What is the source for the headers in this picture?

This is a low-boy chassis I do for deeply channeled and lowered '29 and '32 hot rods. I fabricate a set of Deuce rails cut from thick styrene sheet stock using a pattern traced from a set of Revell 1/25th rails. In the example here I took a direct approach to the rear z’d portion, omitting the 45 degree z which I also will do and focusing on how the frame would look from below once completed. Styrene strip was used for the k-member and the various cross members as shown below. Since only the portion forward of the firewall will be at all visible the critical thing is to get the upward curve and the horns looking right and the frame width correct to take the grill shell and sit properly under the body. With the very deep channel in this case (some 4 scale inches) the entire rear portion will be invisible except if the model is turned over on its roof. In this instance I used a simple version of the stock Revell kit coil-over rear end. The front suspension uses the terrific re-pops that ThePartsBox.com make of the Revell ’40 Ford Street Rod dropped front axle. I can’t recommend these highly enough, not only for their deep drop, but most especially because they are wire reinforced which prevents them from sagging over time the way most resin front axles do. Massive thumbs up! I make my own leaf spring from thin strips of styrene. Here is the final result:

Very handsome early-style custom. The rear bumper really seals the deal - too bad it's a Mystery Part since the fit appears to be perfect. Combined with the Tiny Taillights it's got the late 40's thing happening big time. I also dig the chrome spear with the crest on the hood side. Are the spear and the taillights also Mystery Parts, LOL?

Coolness!

Great looking hot rod with fine stance and proportions and full of classic kit-bashing details. The final result and sharp photography show all the care and craftsmanship evident in your w.i.p. to great advantage. Bravo!

I suspect that adapting the stock style windshield copped, as supplied in this and the Stacey David variants, or stock height as supplied in all previous versions, may be as simple as either re-shapng the bottoms of the windshield frame stanchions to conform to the cowl curve, or of filing small flat areas into the cowl surface, or some combination of the two. It certainly would be far less work than replacing the cowl. I guess this is where I get on my soapbox and complain about the gradual "butchering" of the original stock-style roadster body to make these more specialized versions, but in reality, airbags, butchered body, now the DuVall, and all, this is a marvelous kit to build authentic traditional rods, and the "additional" work required remains, for me, as much of a pleasure of the hobby, as it might be a chore. But I must admit that a "shrink-ray" version of the Big Deuce would be the ultimate version. I can dream...

This is destined to be an important parts kit, as well as ensuring the survival (although somewhat modified) of the original 1/25th scale Revell Street Rod Deuce Roadster. The original Stacey David parts that matter IMHO are the wheels and tires, the cycle fenders, the chopped stock windshield, the stock-style firewall, the classic dashboard and steering wheel, the Speedway Motors style upholstered bomber seats, the circle-track style exhausts, a modern SBC, and the somewhat lowered front axle spring (unfortunately offset by the taller front tires), never mind the front Moon tank, circular taillights and the hairpin radius rods from the earlier Deuce 5-window variant. And while I might criticize the DuVall windshield for being too specialized, the Limefire style headers and the conservative, well-conceived classic tuck 'n' roll interior are certainly welcome additions. That's quite a list! Question to those who have received this kit: Are the chassis rails still notched for the exhaust pipe extension going to the mufflers? Also, I assume the extensions molded into the rear pan to surround the fuel tank have survived.

I just remembered this thread. Such a cool idea! I thought I'd give it a bump with this recent 100% pure Spare Parts build: scratch built chassis, homemade decals, leftover Revellogram '30 Ford Sedan body and spare-box motor and rolling stock used to build this Salt Lakes racer:

Just finished this AMT-based channeled roadster. It's a tribute to David di Falco's Preservation-style '30 Ford Channeled Roadster featured in this 2016 Jalopy Journal post: A Fly in Amber: The di Falco Roadster. AMT body channeled over Revell Deuce rails with Revell '40 Ford Street Rod Flathead, Revell '40 Ford and Modelhaus 120 big 'n' little whtewalls.

Thanks to you all for the kind words. As I may have mentioned elsewhere, I don't do weathering very often, maybe once every couple of years. It's partially because the proverbial Clean Build is something I admire so much in other builders and because the Clean Build is something that continues to elude me to some degree. Ironically, however, I seem to have a knack for weathering, and I certainly enjoy doing it. I think in the final analysis, clean or weathered, it's realism that floats my boat personally, even if I admire the ability others have to execute more "cartoonish" stylized projects just as much. Anyway, this was a fun project because it went so quickly for me and seemed to play to whatever strengths I may have as a modeler. Again, thanks for your comments and interest. It's greatly appreciated! B.