Dennis Lacy

Thanks for the added info, Tim. Even though I had thoroughly read your blown SBC comparison it slipped my mind as I wrote my above post. Is the blower from the Corvette kit not identical to what's in the new '30 Coupe? It sure looks like it.

Regardless if you're a fan of the Chevy small block or not, it's important to note that the blower option in this kit is one of just a couple ever kitted that features a "streetable" set up that includes a water pump and alternator. Almost every blown small block over the years has been a competition only setup. The only one for a long time was Monograms late 70's Z28. The only other one since then that comes to mind is the Stacy David Rat Roaster '32 roadster. So for anyone wanting a street going blown Chevy small block, this is a significant inclusion.

Thank you, Tim, for once again taking the time to put together a thorough review. As soon as I can get my hands on one I'll be clearing the bench. I already have a full plan for how I'm going to build my first one.

If you look close there is a ton of photoshop going on in the Police picture above. The glass and windshield frame for sure, the license plate, the stainless side trim pieces on body & fenders and all of the Police parts (siren, roof flashers and spot light.) The 1/4 glass being drawn in is also screwing with the shape of the window opening big time.

The Cobra pan in the Buttera kits is a front sump. The motor is set back far enough in the chassis that it's a non-issue. That and the Jag based IFS uses a rack & pinion.

I was just at my local shop which is the giant Pegasus Hobbies. They're like a mega store and it blows my mind that they aren't on the preferred program. Guess I gotta wait another week or two.

This kit is absolutely a perfect candidate for a moonshine runner!

Hood: Completely different stainless trim + the shape of the front nose area therefor different stampings with unique part numbers. Front Fenders: Completely different headlight assemblies (bulb/reflector vs, sealed beam) therefor different stampings with unique part numbers. Rear Fenders: Completely different tail lights (teardrop shape vs.chevron shape) therefor different stampings with unique part numbers. Cowl: Crank-out windshield vs.fixed windshield therefor different stampings and completely different inner structure with unique part numbers. Doors: Full size glass vs vent wing windows + different door handles therefor different stampings and completely different inner structure with unique part numbers. (Not to mention window glass regulators and latch operating mechanisms.) That leaves the roof and quarter panels. I did say sheet metal wise they share very little in the way of common parts and I believe that qualifies. (The two years do share many, many common chassis and engine parts but that isn't important as it applies to passing the model kit as a '39.) If you are walking a swap meet and need '39 sheet metal, you look for '39 sheet metal. If you are walking a swap meet and need '40 sheet metal, you look for '40 sheet metal.

The Spic N Span gasser box art rules! If they do a retro-deluxe version they should use that artwork. For sure! It's pretty funny that AMT suggests it can be built as a '39 as well when the only '39 parts provided are the grill, headlights and hood with slightly different trim. In reality, although similar looking, a '39 and '40 share very little in the way of common parts. All the sheet metal and trim is different, bumpers, dashboard, steering wheel, floor vs. column shift, upholstery patterns, wheels / hubcaps and the list goes on That being said, I've always thought a '39 Deluxe is way prettier than a '40, either Standard or Deluxe.

Thanks! The primer '40 was supposed to be orange like my Dad's but I failed to think about the fact that bright orange won't cover dark gray primer. Dog! It sucks because the paint layed down super smooth. The gray just showed right through it, haha. Everything else is done, it just needs a repaint but I lost motivation once the botch happened. And, now the quality of the rest of the model isn't up to my standards. I hate being my worst critic! Maybe I need to grab this retro issue and build it over again with my current skill set....

On my '40 I used the headers from the AMT '25 T kits. They were modified slightly to mate up to the heads. I cut notches in the inner fender panels for the headers to pass through. These headers could easily work with the '32 Vicky engine. I used these because they were similar to my Dad's model and how the tubes come out from under the fenders. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Although the engines in all of these AMT early Ford kits share similar mounting architecture they don't swap around any which way like you'd think. At least, not in terms of being direct drop-ins. In some cases, they do drop right in. Other cases requiring trimming or other clearance modifications. I know for sure that the Chrysler Hemi in the '32 Roadster will not fit in the '40 kits without recessing the firewall. This was one of my first projects when I started building again 8 years ago. It was intended to mimic an AMT '40 Coupe my Dad built in the 60's. I never finished the poor thing. Hosted on Fotki I've also put the Pontiac from the '36 kits into the '34 Pickup. To make the engine sit level (instead of nose diving) required spacing it up (similar to the spacers for the Hemi in the '32 Roadster). Also, rather than modify the flat floor I decided to cheat and saw material off the transmission where it interfered. With the model assembled this doesn't show. I only used the block from the '36 kits in this case. The rest of the engine parts are from AMT's excellent Pontiac parts pack engine. Everything dropped right on. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki The very first model I built when getting back into it 8 years ago was the AMT '32 Roadster and I used the Chevy engine from the '32 5-Window. In this case there engine was a direct, no extra work required swap since they are both 32's and use identical frames. Hosted on Fotki

All of these current retro-drag AMT kits have the most killer decal sheets! That sheet makes this kit worth buying. That's not a trailer tongue. It's a tow bar that would get bolted to the front of the car and then hooked to a hitch on a vehicle for flat-towing to and from the race track for those who didn't have the extra bucks for a trailer.

Turned out really neat! the scallops were definitely the way to go. I like the subtle weathering, open roof wood framing and the wrenches for door handles. It's funny, the blown Ardun-headed flathead is a total juxtaposition to the rest of the car. That's a $25k engine in a $10k car! Probably way outside of a rat rodders budget! Aren't models awesome?

This is one of the neatest build-ups of the channeled version of this kit I've seen yet. I really like the color scheme, the aggressively cut down windshield, the half tarp and the lakes weathering. The car definitely has "the look."

Fantastic use of parts, I like it!

With the addition of the West Coast / Pismo event I'm very much trying to get my Dad to enter his 40's period perfect '34 Roadster. It's not particularly fast compared to the light weight earlier cars with really built flatheads but the experience would be killer. Problem is he's 70 and grumpier than ever. Hosted on Fotki

That's the beauty of doing the A-pillar cuts this way. It allows the two narrow pieces of pillar to be manipulated enough (with finger pressure) to realign without additional cuts or messing with the length of the roof. I did think about scribing "pop out" light doors but where I put the hood scoops doesn't leave a good place to do that (IMO.) I'll give some more thought to rectangular lights, though. There must be a good way...

That looks really nice, so far! Deserves to be finished...

Duplicolor Gray Sandable Primer Comes in white, black and brown, too.

As luck would have it, I used the top chop on this body as a how-to for another forum. Ask and ye shall receive! In no way am I implying this is the only way, it's just how I do it. Hopefully this can answer some questions for those contemplating a roof whack on a '32 Ford. So follow along then get your own Sawzall out and start cuttin'! 1. Decide how much choppin' you want to do and mark your cut lines. I use a fine tip Sharpie. For this model I chose 3/16 inch which is about like 4.5 inches on a full scale '32. As you can see, the cut lines at the rear of the body will have a step between the side windows and the rear window. (The vertical lines just inside of the body corner are drawn along existing mold seams.) This is necessary because drawing two continuous horizontal lines will not bisect both the side windows and the rear windows at their optimal location. The side windows must be done such that when the roof comes down the rear edges of the window opening line up correctly. Hosted on Fotki 2. For the A-pillar (windshield post) another staggered cut will be required. The door opening panel line will serve as a dividing line. Put a pen mark from the door line-rearward just under the raised drip molding. Measure down double the amount you're chopping (in this case 3/16" x 2 or 3/8" total) and mark another line from the door line-forward. Lastly, measure and mark a center line between the upper and lower lines and draw it completely across the A pillar. Once the lines are correctly layed out, use the back edge of a sharp #11 blade and scribe along the door line the distance between the upper and lower lines until you make a complete vertical cut. Hosted on Fotki 3. Using the back of your #11 blade again, scribe along the two vertical lines on the back of the body until they are both cut through spanning the distance of the upper most and lower most cut lines. Hold a steel straight edge along the lines to guide the blade at first. Once the lines start to get a little depth you can remove the straight edge and the blade will follow the lines. Hosted on Fotki 4. Using your razor saw of choice, now cut out the two sections of material at the back of the body. I cut on the lines. Hosted on Fotki 5. At the A pillar, cut completely through the pillar on the center line. Then remove the two remaining sections of material, one above the center line, the other below. Hosted on Fotki 6. Remove the remaining sections of material on the B (center pillars.) Clean up any flash along the cut edges while being careful not to remove any additional material from the faces of the cuts. Taking care to line up all of the sections as best as possible, glue the roof back down using your favorite glue. I use Zap-A-Gap. Hosted on Fotki 7. If any gaps occur where the two body halves join (like the lower most rear cut lines and the vertical #11 blade cut lines in the following photo) simply fill those areas with scrap pieces of plastic trimmed to the appropriate size and shape. DO NOT leave gaps like this to fill with putty later. You want to do as much work in plastic as possible so that a year after you paint the model the seams don't reappear when the putty shrinks. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki 8. Once the glue has been given thorough time to gestate (I give Zap-A-Gap an our or two) you can now start sanding the seams smooth. Use a small, pointed hobby file to carefully smooth the seams in the window openings and other stepped reveal lines. use the back of a #11 blade to scribe the glue build up out of the door panel lines, making them continuous again. If care was taken to line up the two body halves the seams should become seamless and require very little putty filler during paint prep. Hosted on Fotki Take a look at this side view. Notice that no additional material has been added to stretch the roof to make the A pillars line up! This is the whole reason for the staggered A pillar cuts. The staggered cuts allow the two thin A pillar halves to be manipulated into lining up with light pressure and cohersion. There are several benefits to not stretching the roof. One is that the molded soft insert detail is not disturbed if you would like to leave it intact. Second, it's a heck of a lot less work without having to clean up more seams than necessary. Third is that the staggered joint at the A pillar is WAY stronger than a simple straight butt joint would be because your are gluing along more surface area. Fourth, any load placed on the pillar while handling or sanding is spread out over a greater area greatly reducing the risk of breaking the seam. (The same goes for the staggered rear seam.) Hosted on Fotki

Oh man, if I only had some!

This past weekend I spent just a short time at the bench. Being it was the Wife's birthday I felt it politically correct not to hole up in the garage for hours. I'm not that stupid! I've been thinking a lot of what else I wanted to do to this thing. One of the other mods that got really popular with this era of car was the removal of the front and rear frame horns (and therefor the gas tank, too.) I sat there with my razor saw in one hand and the frame in the other for about 5 minutes. I reasoned that if I was that unsure about circumcising the frame then it was probably the right move to make. Following that I found some neat little shock brackets in my parts that I think might be from AMT's '41 Woody street rod. Before running out of time I managed to half scratch build one of the shocks. I wasn't gonna take pictures until they were both made but I was out in the g'rage taking pictures of my 3-Window project already so I snapped a couple just for the heck of it. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Whether I like it or not, too late now! Opinions???

Took a break from painting last week, now I'm back on it. Got the body pieces and interior pieces in primer. Couldn't resist setting the primer body onto the chassis. Just getting some color on things, any kind of color other than white plastic, really helps you "see" the car. Got some expected flaws where I changed the trunk lid and some ghost etching where those awful mold seems were at the rear of the roof. Wet sand, prime, repeat! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Yeah, I don't get it either. I see the Oldsmobile covers on SBC's all the time now at shows and gatherings. The first time I saw this my thoughts were "Haha, that's funny." The rest of the times my thought was "Why?". It's kind of like all the young greasers and pin up girls that show up to events in their Honda Civic's. I think the correct definition is Poser. But, to each their own. That being said, I can't wait for this kit to hit the shelves soon!!!