horsepower

One of the neat things that AMT did during this period is that the engines from any of the Trophy Series kits would drop directly into any of the other Trophy Series kits without any modifications needed. Want a real "hot" p'cup? Drop in the430 Lincoln from one of the '25T kits the only thing you might need to think about is the exhaust because unless you're building a highboy version with no fenders the headers from the T kits are ever gonna fit a Resto-mod version.

Looks like the old Syclone kit to me. Sure lucky that years ago when the Pay Less Drug stores were all closing I picked up three of the Syclone kits, two of the S-10/ Lowrider, and four of the last Revell stock releases of the original '56 Ford F-100 kits all for $1.99 each. Now if I can remember what big box out of the 40-50 to pick from, bet I will start putting contents sheets on the end of each box when I am repacking them this time

I'd like to see the '48, and a '51 Torpedo as my dad had both of them and the '48 was his first car out of High School, he graduated in June of 1947 and worked all summer in sawmill in their tiny little company town and in September took a train back to Michigan and drove his first car off the assembly line and out of the factory. That was pretty good for a 17 year old, oh yeah that brand new Pontiac cost him a little less than $2500. Can you imagine doing that in our modern world?

I sincerely hope that this version actually has the door mount mirrors shown on the box art.

I've shied away from that grille because having both headlights so close to the middle like that just didn't look right, but after looking at this build I think that drilling the centers out and putting some screen in they can make excellent air intakes for a twin turbo power plant and just use some black detailer to give the appearance of having the headlights back there.

Since there's already a '60, '64-'66,'67-72 in the Sixties era how about a '63 short bed fleetside small window. (it's a lot easier to make the back window larger than it is to make it smaller).

Thanks, I just wish they would put it on the boat before the tariffs hit, it's just ridiculous to pay $75+ for a one issue kit that is still an up to date model. The $30+ is bad enough but add a 60-200% tariff to it and it's in the collectible price range. I can see a big increase in sales for Atlantis and any other manufacturers that can get their production back in the states.

I'm sure there are a lot of people out there who would really like to see the latest version of the dirt Sprint Car that Revell only released a single run of before the wheels came off from the parent company. It would be super cool to know if the molds are still out there and who has the current ownership of them. It would almost be worth the cost of the kit to have a parts pack of just the updates it contained.

Has the date for the next NNL West been set? Since the date was changed I have missed it for a time or two.

That's exactly what I'm doing with a set of the '56 Bel-Air trim I was given by a fellow modeler on this forum, and one of the latest releases of the '56 Del-Ray from Revell. Working on getting the kit molding off and the body smoothed out. Hoping to build two, one with the 265 two barrel, powerglide set up that was in when my best friend first bought it, and the factory Dusk Rose/White two tone paint, and the F-6 green, fenderwell exit headers, four speed, 283/with an Edelbrock C3-B intake and a Holley four barrel carb and Isky cam it had when I drove it as my everyday ride. But the 5 mpg of gas mileage on the freeway made it a little rough, even with 100 octane @ 25¢ A gallon for a sometimes part time working college student.

Turned out nice, I seem to come across these nice WIP builds just a little too late to make useful suggestions. My thought was by using a streamline outlet in the body it would do two things, it would give a little more ground clearance because the exhaust could be moved up into the chassis, and the teardrop shape with the streamline blending into the surrounding body it would go along with the custom look of your truck and make the exhaust look like it was a design element from the beginning thoughts of a custom truck that has a respectable go factor too. But I still think that you did a super job. I'm planning a custom Orange finish for a '69 Camaro I've been working on for too long, it's going to use the Tamiya metallic Orange as the base and the Tamiya Transparent Orange as a color with a top coat of clear for the smooth finish that Candy colors like.

Don't forget to cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer, it's so if somehow the trailer to truck connection comes apart the chains being crossed make a cradle that can catch the trailer so the tongue can't dig in and make like a pole vaulters pole and put your nice coupe in the bed of your Black Beauty. Not to mention it's law in every state I know of.?

Have you thought about a KAASE 429+ Shotgun engine with eight stack injection on a cross ram type intake? Not going to fill that compartment up much prettier engine.. I used one from the Poison Pinto kit and the two fours intake from one of the early Monogram Mustangs. I put it in a '56 Monogram T-Bird wanted the hood to close without a big scoop giving the sleeper look away, I used the engine because it had a super looking set of polished chrome valve covers and an automatic transmission that fit the look and style I was going for, even got lucky and found a good looking two four air cleaner that worked out great because it had a Thunderbird emblem on it, but for the life of me I can't remember what it came from.

I think it would be nice if you were to form a semi tear drop shape for where the exhaust pipes are going to exit with just a slight roll on the front and top edge of the opening and maybe a small bevel on the rear to give a little room for the exhaust to escape from without causing paint damage. I really like the direction you're going on Stitches, maybe a pair of totally enclosed seats with open sides on the head shapes like most sprint cars have for better side vision. Something that is needed for a street vehicle since they don't use spotters??

They scream anywhere they are ran, we ran a set of the very early ones that came from a Bobby Allison early '70s Nova and it was before mufflers and a lot of people thought we were turning our 388 c.i. small block in the 8,000rpm range. They have received such a reputation that they are actually outlawed at a few tracks.

Yes and it's a pretty good set, but I was thinking Street use and the ones in the '53 pickup have a pair of finned (billet?) air cleaners for them. Or you can punch a screen for each one from fine screen from scale railroad supplies and then just use a rounded piece of rod to add a curve to them before choosing to paint them or not.

If you can find a hobby shop that carries a good selection of wood and stuff for the miniature doll houses there is some really well milled moulding pieces and some of the banister rails are also usable for a1/24th or 1/25th scale woodie. I picked up some for an A model I was working on years ago from Ben Franklin Crafts but the two in our area both closed up a decade or two ago.

I think I'd try to hide it in the stock fuel tank, maybe leave the back open enough for the battery box. I think using a watch battery in parallel, (C2016 it's a thin wafer and would be very easy to hide and wire. A tiny push on/off switch could be hidden and activated by using a fabricated gas cap/filler pipe. Gonna be a very beautiful p-cup when you get it all finished.

Looks nice, but I was hoping for a '53-'54 version just my preference.

Me too, and I wouldn't mind another of the Street Machine '57s. They are great for building '55 Pro Street cars with very little work and they are pretty convincing too. But I have never even seen one of those '68 Elky Street Machines.

I've been contemplating using that blown Ardun Truck engine in the '50 Ford F-1 p'cup, should be a good fit since they actually included a mild L'il one in the kit but with the blower and a couple or three carbs piled up on top of it it's gotta be right.?

Looks like a '31 Ford Model A to me.

I'd like to see the '74 MPC Pinto sedan (deck lid instead of a hatchback) it's the only SEDAN that was done with the deluxe outer trim package and we had one '74 Runabout with that trim package and a '71 with that trim package too, all I'd need to do is rob the small bumpers and the front and rear valance panels to get the right body and I have a couple of the AMT '71 Wonder Pony kits that I didn't find out until I already owned them that the rear wheel openings had been opened up for a set of big slicks but the interior is right and the 2.0 engine with the four speed from the later releases will work for that. That'll just leave finding what seems to be the hardest thing to find and that's the box with the tooits in it especially those darn round ones that always seem to be the rarest.??

I know I got on this ride a little after it was goin' but thought I would give a little knowledge about the '70s backyard race cars, we ran drums at both ends of the car and we used Pontiac drums on the rear right out of the '55 the housing came from and they're pretty close to the drums you have here, on the front we used '68 Lincoln Continental spindles and the front brakes were three inches wide on the braking surface but had a very pronounced group of cast in cooling fins and the part we were a little up in the air over is they were completely cast iron drums but they looked a lot like the Buick drums in quite a few different available kits from the Round2 Buick ones to the ones I think that I will use and they are the ones that Revell stuck in the Model A Coupe and Roadster kits. Your looking good on your way to get it ready for the first race but knowing how racers are you will no doubt realize that the good things that are said about a full nights sleep are way over rated. We didn't go to dual master cylinders or even a dual stage master cylinder until the last dirt car we built. Most of the rides we stuck together used the "Ol' Reliable" fruit jar topped Mustang master cylinders. We did try a bright idea where we decided that if it was good enough for General Motors why wouldn't it work in our race car and for a race or two we tried using the dual master cylinder from the early '60s GM trucks and went to a hydraulic clutch set up, but for some reason we kept having clutch failure to release problems. I'm not sure but I felt for some reason that we had them switched and were just not getting the volume we needed but the driver (and owner) voted us down and we went back to the manual release set up from our ancient history and it never gave us a problem until we poked a hole in the release fork with the pushrod from the bell crank that was fixed by just welding an end for another release fork to the end of a complete one to make a double thickness part that was still in the bell housing when we sold the car.

The red that RCR used on the Goodwrench cars had a lot of orange in it, I think that Ford Poppy red from the late '60s Mustangs is very near the exact color and the black was a generic BASF code that was mixed up in the RCR paint shop with their own in house mixing station that before the wraps became popular every fairly large shop owned.