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diymirage

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Everything posted by diymirage

  1. i just need to get close is all you know close only counts in horse shoes handgrenades and thermo nuclear warfare it just so happens im planning to aply at least 2 out of 3 (go ahead, tailgate me, i challenge ya, see how you like a horshoe to the face)
  2. awesome however, looks like one well aimed granade will put an end to that baby, you know, with all the explosives being out in the open
  3. hey steef, hoe goed is de kans dat die producent een 1990 opel E kadett sedan maakt ? ik will en reproductie maken van mijn oude kadetje maar die dinger zijn hier is de VS onmogelijk aan te komen, zeker in dat jaar/carroserie
  4. actually, the rules are on page one, aswell as a list of participants it is a free for all conor so let me know the name of your entry and i will toss it into this carmagedon
  5. yes but it has fallen to the back burner cant seem to figure the canons out
  6. as far as painting goes it really is a matter of trail and error/practice makes perfect i'll admit certain models are easyer to paint then others because the trim is more pronounced but in the end you just have to practice at it try finding something you can rest your hand on while you paint to keep it more steady. if all else fails you can mask the of the car and then paint the trim and im sure someone will come by and talk to you about bare metal foil
  7. what i always like doing is painting a small triangle of the seat nasty jellow/orange, the colour of very old foam then i get the very thin toilet paper (the gas station kind that you can almost see through) start painting the seat and "upholster" it with the toilet paper then when you come to the triangle lift the paper up a bit finish it of with a coat of paint over the paper this will make it look like the upholstery is ripped
  8. thanks guys im really excited about the trailer, its made by revell germany too any painting sugestions ? i was thinking of alluminum for most of it but maybe i should give alcad a try? plus, this is a perfect excuse to buy me a real nice hauler too
  9. so for the last week or so there has been this big box wrapped in purple paper sitting in the corner of the room and today i got to open it inside i found some choice candies, a CD and this : http://www.stocktonmodeller.co.uk/plastic_...tails-5696.html and that all for my 26th birthday
  10. first of, welcome aboard i have no doubt that your previous expiericence will allow you to do some awesome detail work on just about any part of the model you want. as for the big chunks. i never use the tamiya but that is only because i am used to testors it is really not because i have something against tamiya or because i dont think it is good qaulity (it really is) i just happen to have testors. depending on how good my model is i will primer it when needed if i am using a waterbased paint i ALWAYS primer my model. would it be safe to assume you are using a brush ? because the best way to paint larger surfaces is an airbrush but a lot of people (myself included) will use rattle can paint aswell then the brush we just use for smaller surfaces and detail painting when i prep my paint i try to mix a batch large enough to cover all coats so that i dont need to remix it several times generally speaking, the more thinner you as the glossier the paint will come out. finally, dont shy from using clearcoats. i sand down my final coat of regular paint before i ad 2-3 coats of clear and then i wetsand and buff that out aswell. the fact of the mather is: even if your nissan doesnt look perfect right now with a lot of patience and some nice sanding (very fine wetsanding) there is most likely still a very nice paintjob underneath. you can get different kinds of buffing rags at your local hobby shop aswell. you use those once the topcoat is nice and smooth, it just brings out that showroom sheen
  11. the airbubbles in the cup seem to represent backpresure (if i remember correctly) this means that there is no where for the air to escape through the front of the nozzle so the path of least resistance is through the paint. most likely means your tip is clogged up which might also contribute to the bad spray pattern
  12. that thing looks awesome now i dont wanna finish mine anymore cos it wont look good compared to yours
  13. if you do buy a new car i would suggest getting a volvo 480 and salp that turbo beast in there
  14. buy a model and scavenge the engine and wheels then take the body and chassis and put it in the trade section then just trade it for wheels its like that fellow how suposidly started of with a piece of string and traded and traded untill he had a yacht
  15. it looks good nice weathering where did you find the short block ? i've been meaning to build a garage diorama and that would look good in it
  16. fo shizzle, like the ford escort cosworth funny thing, it was sold as a "german" car in the US, the merkur XR4 something i would love to find a model of my opel kadett so i could build a replica
  17. hey, thats an awesome kit any background info on why my name is on it ? (my first name is eelco, named after the guitar player for cuby and the blizzards, i am so thankfull i wasnt called cuby)
  18. the issue is not just that it is a korean car, it is what korean car it is i used to have a hyundai tiburon and i beat the tar out of that car and it took it very well never broke anything, nothing wore down prematurely and no sqeaks in the interior whatsoever i would say that hyundai makes a very good car nowadays and because of the bad rap the older ones have/had it is stil affordable. my wife on the other hand drives a chevy aveo (deawoo) and i am less pleased with it. it seems to be build to lower standards, i mean, even lower then the standards of chevy, under whose name it is sold. the thermostat went at about 40K which is way early. did i mention the thermostat is a dealer only part and it costs 25 bucks? the timing belt NEEDS to be changed at 60K, this is NOT negotiable the timing belt on my VW is suposed to last 75K, pretty big difference. so, from my own personal expierience, i would say stay clear from the chevy/deawoo stuff i would have no problem getting a hyundai but..... what is this i heard about opel ? my second car was an opel E kadett and i beat the living daylights out of that one i was very impressed with it plus, its german i guess my vote would say opel
  19. wilkommen (austria is a german speaking country right ) love the camaro very nicr detail painting , i specifically like the coolant hose neck and the tie down for the various wires and cables, looks awesome. quick question for you, have you ever seen a 1/24 kit of a 1990 opel E kadett in the 4 door version? i know its a longshot but its the one car i just have to build (make a copy of one i used to own) and im pretty sure the kadett was sold in austria right ? danke
  20. i always thought chevy orange IS rust ? anyways, looking really good man. i like the way the barn looks, kind of a different aproach to things and i think you'll be able do to some really cool stuff with different lighting once its done the caddy is looking pretty accurate too but..... ...i cant believe those tires still hold air after 30 years
  21. i would put a teeny tiny bit of purple or green right at the tips of the flames
  22. i just thought they looked faded , like they were weathered
  23. i agree the lancia delta is an awesome little car looking great so far cant wait to C the finished product
  24. awesome looking car wouldnt happen to be a rebadge opel manta would it ?
  25. thats a nice looking car you build there son just one question, why is it running the stock exhaust ? you dont always have to decide between a econobox and a V8 dan, you can always make something fit that focus runs a V8 from a bigfoot monster truck
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