diymirage

rear end looks great, side profile definalty looks like a porsche (specially in the black/orange pre production model) but the front still looks too much like a girly beetle (i guess its the car version of a butterface) all things considered its much more of a car then the outgoing model...and maybe...just maybe a straight guy could buy this car

Hi Mike, there is still plenty of building time left and the more the merrier let us know what model your building and we'll ad you to the list im hoping to get mine in primer (again) today

some of my favorite steelies are on the dodge monaco's, roscoes cruizer, the goon car they are nice and deep and make great street muscle rims

you're right, i overthought it and reached the wrong conclusion so a 1/25 scale engine would be best but i still think a 1/24 scale should work aswell glad to hear that i wasnt going to suggest blowers since it might make the car look too much like the falcon from madmax (on a side note, im american english a gearbox is a transmission....if you go to a junkyard here and ask for a gearbox they give you the windshield wiper motor) so lets see some mock ups of the engine

sorry about that well, for starters this is a 1/25 scale kit right ? that means that a hemi from a 1/25 would be just a hair bigger them a hemi from a 1/24 scale kit now, your RS came with a 302 which is a smallblock engine while the hemi is a bigblock so my suggestion would be to find a nice hemi in 1/24 scale it will not be accurate in scale but it will give you a hair more room to fiddle with and i doubt anyone would notice the difference not 100 % sure where you could find a nice 1/24 hemi though there are plenty of choices in 1/25 (which im sure would work aswell) like the revell 69 charger (a 426 hemi) or thier 32 ford 5window (older 392 hemi) or the reissue of the little red wagon in coca cola trim im not 100 % sure on if this is a 426 (like the real one) or a 392 hemi, but it comes with hilborne fuel injection and regular intake (i think) you cant put the cones on if you use the hilborn since each cilinder has its own intake stack BUT you do get a 1/24th scale hemi best part of it...each of these kits have optional parts so you can scavenge the hemi and still build the kit without adding any extra parts (except a starter for the ford)

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i took a quick look at the donor body and it looks like the paint will come off fine (its coming into the shower with me later tonight to get cleaned up) however, i appears 3 out of the 4 roofposts are broken so it will need some extra work

i really like where this is going you should put a hemi in it though

X2

or better yet...he gets out and sees this :

that ougtha be interesting Aaron let me know where it is and ill have a look-see

I ACCEPT ill try to get some pics going tomorrow i have the new body soaking in dot3 it is the wierdest thing, i got these 3 kits in on trade (mainly cos i wanted the 56 ford body) and the paint on all 3 is just gorgeous...the worst of the 3 is still better then anything i ever coloured but the rest of the build (on all 3) is sub par odd oh well for this build i will be using the chassis and rolling gear as i origenally intended for my build with the body parts and glass from the donor power will be from a parts pack 427 and rolling stock from a die cast dragster

just imagine the guy getting out and his whole crew ROFLing at him, trying to yell out through thier tears "APRIL FOOL"

you know, ive been thinking about the first vid and then i realized it must be a gag one of his buddies musta thunk it be pretty funny to cut the steering shaft and see what happens i mean, why else would there be a camera hidden in the cockpit ?

dont sweat it....we're just riling on you on a side note i finally bit the bullet last night and dumped the GTX into some dot3 the container was too smal for the entire body so i only submerged the driver side in it i went to check it when i woke up this morning and from under the snakeskinned paint/primer i was greated by some nice white styrene

i might have a 56 ford vicky i can use i started it ages ago and screwed up the paint when i set it in the pond the body just melted i shelved it but did get a donor kit in on trade that will need to have the entire body redone (it is painted, needs to have the A pilar fixed and all the body work redone) i could consider doing that one...but i dont feel right inviting myself to an "invitational" build

like in this here go kart ?

i thought the E-brake was only for sharp turn ?

do you need to finish a model in order to fall into a category ? if so im still undecided

the only 2 from that list i havent tried are simply green and dot 3 im a bit skiddish to use dot 3 because last time i did use it it ended up melting the model, it literally looked like it got runned over by a monster truck (maybe 8 months was too long? ) i did do some samding today (3200 wet) since i had to take a shower anyway and i couldnt even get through to the primer

it actually came out looking a lot better then i thought it would when i looked at your WIP the black grilles look pretty good actually and i really like the way the hood decal "cuts" through the yellow the scat pack decal really helps pull the paint scheme together aswell if i could make a suggestion, get yourself some stoplight red and turnsignal amber paints they are both semi clear and they would make your sidemarkers look much better

hard to tell but it almost looks like the trailer ran over the 2X4 that was allready on the side of the road (32 seconds) it did kinda startle me but it is a different kinda scared, this is a "what just happened?" scared while the other was a "ok, how im i going to get out of this alive" situation

thats too bad aaron ill talk to greg and see if we can at least keep you as a member (usually this type of thing is cause for suspension) in the mean time i could use some advice on the pond i had the car in both rubbing alcohol and easy off and it took off the top coat now the red laquer and the silver (model masters laquer) are still on there strong as well as most of the primer any suggestions on how to remove those?

you should see it now, i just checked up on it and the black came off allready but the red,silver and primer are a bit tougher iether way, its going to need some more work i might have to sand it since its been in the pond since late saturday

Hi Brad thechnically, these questions go in the general forum and we save this section only to share our tips, trick and tutorials but...to awnser your question, when possible i will put the body together as much as i can but keep in mind you can not always get the chassis in AFTER the bumpers are on, so tape everything together and try it before you put glue it on, it would be a shame to have to undo all your hard work the chrome tim is done with a product called Bare Metal Form (BMF for short) which is a model specific aluminum foil with adhesive backing as for the rims, usually i leave them chromed and touch up little nicks with silver paint after that i use a black wash, there are some specific washes on the market but i use watered down black enamel paint this will lay in the low spots and dry there giving the part more depth (i actually use this on engine blocks aswell, anything that needs to look more 3D) i use allclad occasionaly but mostly on scratchbuild parts like exhausts or parts that have gone through heavy modification