Art Anderson

One can add to this list the Ertl diecast '39 Bantam Sedan Delivery (which is called a panel delivery in the original packaging, but it IS passenger-car based) in the slightly larger 1:22nd scale. I also drew that tooling from Ertl's inventory when Johnny Lightning was bought out by Ertl's then parent company, RC2 in 2004, did it up in period-correct Coca Cola livery as part of a large series of Coca Cola diecasts. I also developed the JL 1/24 scale '57 Ford Courier Sedan Delivery for that series--that was one very fun project indeed!. In addition, I developed, at Johnny Lightning, the 1/18 scale diecast '55 Chevrolet Sedan Delivery (a body style that is way overdue in 1/25 by the way!) as part of that same Coca Cola series. Art

Mark, the late Bill Harrison (from out in California) and I had a discussion on the MPC '33 Chevrolet kit: Bill pointed out that the bodywork is not standard Chevrolet light truck sheet metal, but rather a custom-built body on a 1932 Chevrolet passenger car chassis, with '32 Chevy passenger car front end sheet metal. For that reason, Bill always maintained that this vehicle was a sedan delivery, of 1/2 ton capacity, built (like virtually all early Sedels) to comply with so-called "boulevard laws" in many cities (Detroit area included) which forbade the use of "ordinary" commercial trucks on certain high-dollar residential streets. Given Bill's extensive reference materials (literally cubic yards of the stuff, or indeed hundreds of lbs of it) I tend to agree with his assessment. Sadly, Bill passed away about 14-15 years ago though. Art

A lot depends on what one plans to use a micrometer or calipers on, frankly. If one is needing measuring instruments for say, precision machining of metals, then go with the highest-quality instrument your wallet can afford--the greater the precision needed, likely the higher the price of a micrometer, for example. On the other hand, if one is just needing (as in my case) to make measurements when working on a styrene model project, absolute precision (down to that ten-thousandth of an inch) isn't likely to matter, as one swipe of 400-grit sandpaper can remove more than that much plastic. As I seldom have any need for NASA-like precision, but just to measure that bit of K&S brass rod, or a strip of Evergreen styrene--or simply to determine just what size that drill bit is, that I didn't put back in my "numbered-drill" index--then the $20 or thereabouts digital calipers I can get many pllaces, does JUST fine. Art

That was the way of it with AMT kits, back in 1971, when the Freightliner kits were first released. That said, the parts should be easily identifiable when looking at the instructions. Thousands of that kit got built (even I managed to build one ) Art

"Rare" in the context of model car kits, can be a rather subjective term, IMHO. Many are considered to be "rare" today simply because they did not sell at all well when they were made for sale in the open market, and thus were never reissued: The Aurora "Mod Squad" '50 Mercury wagon fits this description to a "T" That kit languished on hobby shop shelves (Oh I know--you bought at least one is a common saying), but in reality, that model kit was in "close-out" status from hobby wholesalers (that's how model kits were distributed to hobby shops back in he day--still are) within a year of it's release--and they gathered dust and "shopwear"on hobby shop shelves. Two factors: First, the model kit was made by Aurora, which company wasn't even close to the "mainstream" of model car kit manufacturing--in a time when the model car kit market was dominated overwhelmingly by AMT, followed by MPC and Revell,with Monogram a very close 4th place. Adding to the relative unpopularity of the Mod Squad Mercury Wagon at the time it came out was simply that by the time the kit was released, the actual car had been run off a cliff and totally destroyed per the script of the show, in addition to its not having any building options, which were the norm for the then-"Big Three" model car kit manufacturers. Thus, its rarity today is the result, not of a deliberately short production run--but a sincere lack of enthusiasm on the part of kids ages about ten to fifteen at the time of its being produced. At the other end of the spectrum were kits such as the SMP 1911 Chevrolet: That kit was tooled, and produced for Chevrolet as an exclusive promotional item in 1961--the 50th Anniversary of the founding of the Chevrolet Motor Car Company by William C. Durant and his partners. This model was produced both in kit form, as well as a ready-assembled promotional model (in raw black styrene with a dull metallic gold body, and gold-toned plated parts, curbside only. However, this model was for distribution, on a "one-time" basis, to Chevrolet dealerships only, not for general mass distribution to all comers in the retail business (although some may have made it into hobby shops via a local Chevy dealership. Once that production order was done at SMP, the tooling (ostensibly cut in aluminum) was destroyed, per terms of the contract with GM & Chevrolet. As such, the vast majority of model car builders in 1961 (I would have been 16yrs old, going on 17 then) were completely unaware that the kit or promo even existed. Also, quite likely, the model kit, if offered through the hobby industry distribution channel, would have died quickly, due to the obscurity of the subject (the '11 Chevrolet was a prototype only, the first production Chevrolet's only barely resembled it) and it was a kit of an antique car with absolutely no building options--which in 1961 were essential for the popularity of a model car kit. That said, had I known of this kit or promo--I'd have hustled my buns to Horner Chevrolet (owned by a HS classmate's family!) at 11th and Main Streets in Downtown Lafayette in a NY minute, bought at least one, kit or promo at the time--but that's another story.

"Rare" in the context of model car kits, can be a rather subjective term, IMHO. Many are considered to be "rare" today simply because they did not sell at all well when they were made for sale in the open market, and thus were never reissued: The Aurora "Mod Squad" '50 Mercury wagon fits this description to a "T" That kit languished on hobby shop shelves (Oh I know--you bought at least one is a common saying), but in reality, that model kit was in "close-out" status from hobby wholesalers (that's how model kits were distributed to hobby shops back in he day--still are) within a year of it's release--and they gathered dust and "shopwear"on hobby shop shelves. Two factors: First, the model kit was made by Aurora, which company wasn't even close to the "mainstream" of model car kit manufacturing--in a time when the model car kit market was dominated overwhelmingly by AMT, followed by MPC and Revell,with Monogram a very close 4th place. Adding to the relative unpopularity of the Mod Squad Mercury Wagon at the time it came out was simply that by the time the kit was released, the actual car had been run off a cliff and totally destroyed per the script of the show, in addition to its not having any building options, which were the norm for the then-"Big Three" model car kit manufacturers. Thus, its rarity today is the result, not of a deliberately short production run--but a sincere lack of enthusiasm on the part of kids ages about ten to fifteen at the time of its being produced. At the other end of the spectrum were kits such as the SMP 1911 Chevrolet: That kit was tooled, and produced for Chevrolet as an exclusive promotional item in 1961--the 50th Anniversary of the founding of the Chevrolet Motor Car Company by William C. Durant and his partners. This model was produced both in kit form, as well as a ready-assembled promotional model (in raw black styrene with a dull metallic gold body, and gold-toned plated parts, curbside only. However, this model was for distribution, on a "one-time" basis, to Chevrolet dealerships only, not for general mass distribution to all comers in the retail business (although some may have made it into hobby shops via a local Chevy dealership. Once that production order was done at SMP, the tooling (ostensibly cut in aluminum) was destroyed, per terms of the contract with GM & Chevrolet. As such, the vast majority of model car builders in 1961 (I would have been 16yrs old, going on 17 then) were completely unaware that the kit or promo even existed. Also, quite likely, the model kit, if offered through the hobby industry distribution channel, would have died quickly, due to the obscurity of the subject (the '11 Chevrolet was a prototype only, the first production Chevrolet's only barely resembled it) and it was a kit of an antique car with absolutely no building options--which in 1961 were essential for the popularity of a model car kit. That said, had I known of this kit or promo--I'd have hustled my buns to Horner Chevrolet (owned by a HS classmate's family!) at 11th and Main Streets in Downtown Lafayette in a NY minute, bought at least one, kit or promo at the time--but that's another story.

Your link works just fine!

I've been using an old Xacto razor saw,for about 25 yrs now--using the teeth at the back end of the saw, pulling the saw toward me. I cut a half-moon cavity in the rear end of the blade, between the teeth and the saw handle, giving the saw blade a "tail" which allows me to get into tight places, even work around curves. Art

That is actually a myth, an urban legend. It never existed as a regulation, or a provision in law. It is true that our nation's system of superhighways were promoted as "Interstate & Defense Highways"--but "Defense" alludes to surface transportation only. In only a very few parts of the US are Interstates paved thickly enough to withstand more than a "publicity stunt" of running an Abrams or even an M-60 Patton tank on them. True, the German Luftwaffe was discovered to have used some bits of the Autobanen in WW-II, but that was a last-ditch effort to disperse their warplanes. In addition, aircraft runways are almost always laid out to be aligned with the most frequent prevailing winds in whatever area of the US they are built--Interstates really are not laid out this way..

Peter, you are correct: Nickel was the first metal used for plating automobile radiator shells and what were originally polished brass headlights & other accessories. Nickel-plated steel parts were the standard until the late 1920's, when Oldsmobile pioneered the use of chromium for plating. Ford Motor Company pioneered the automotive use of stainless steel (which closely resembles nickel in shade of color when polished) on radiator shells, as well as on door handles, bumper escutheon bolts in 1930--with the bumper bars themseves being chrome plated. As for the slight "tint" of color from each of the various forms of automobile brightwork, most of that is noticeable in natural sunlight, far more than it is under artificial light indoors. Art

Richard, trust me on this one--the several Chinese diecast companies pretty much all use he same paints, same procedures and the same Tampo printing techmology. Art

For that matter, Testors enamel thinner will wash a way tampo-printing.

Looks to be the nose from the old Monogam "Don Edmunds Supermodified" ---A CRA car that was the cover car on an issue of Hot Rod Magazine almost at the time (1967 or 1968) that the kit was released. Art

On diecasts, almost always, the principle paint color of the body is baked enamel, for permanence. However, any two-toning is done by masking and spraying the second color, which is never baked, due to the almost certainty of ruining the first, baked on color. For this reason, I urge you to use only water-based polishing compounds, as any that contain petroleum distillates almost assuredly will damage, even strip off any secondary sprayed on color. Also, if your model has any "printed" detail (in the industry, that's called "Tampo Prinint", those details can easily be lost from polishing. Art

I've said this before, but I'll say it again (having worked in the diecast miniature car industry (product development for Johnny Lightning), having stripped several diecasts--avoid Purple Power--it will damage anything with aluminum in it! Diecasts are made from ZAMAC, which is an alloy that contains aluminum--in fact, we use Purple Power to strip the "chrome plating" from plated model car kit parts. Zamak also contains zinc, which corrodes as well. I strongly recommend "Aircraft Grade" paint stripper, which is widely available--it's sold for stripping paint off of non-ferrous metals such as Zamak--and won't damage the metal. Simply brush the stuff on (wearing protective rubber gloves of course--it will burn skin), watch the paint bubble and blister up, then rinse with water and strub any stubborn paint away. For painting, use a "Self Etching" primer, which is sold by the likes of Duplicolor, for paint adhesion on non-ferrous metals such as aluminum and diecast. This primer will give you great adhesion, and can be painted over which pretty much any brand or type of paint you are likely to use on a model car. Art

Been doing that for more than 50 years, and yes it does work! Art

Thin the stuff out more, use less airpressure, stop down the paint flow a bit, and then move in close to spray. Also, this is where a semi-gloss clear would come in handy, as real leather isn't dead flat in sheen, unless it's suede. Art

Different metals, different but subtle shades of silver. The plating used on model car parts at the factory is actually vaporized aluminum, and aluminum is a very "whitish"silver in color, but has been accepted for decades for replicating the chromium plating on real cars. FWIW, chromium plating isn't a pure silver color either, but rather it has just a hint of blue to it, when compared side-by-side with real silver (which of course is true silver in color). Place a piece of polished aluminum next to clean and polished chrome plating, the difference is quite visible indeed. BMF is right in there--it's bright metal for sure, but it's definitely not chromium--chromium is too hard, too springy to ever be used as we use BMF. Virtually all automobile body side trim, from the late 1930's onward (save for some cars in the era 1958 to about 1962) were fitted with anodized aluminum side spears (Chevrolet 1958-60 was a prime example) which is not only a bit dull in sheen, but very whitish in sheen as well. Polished stainless steel, with its 10%or more nickel content, is actually slightly "brownish" in shade--if you compare a mint-uncirulated US Nickel to any silver coin (or sterling silver even) you can readily see that difference. Most of these subtle shade differences aren't all that noticeable--most all of us have come to accept them, if we even ever knew the differences--sorta loke "brightwork is brightwork" if you will. Frankly, IMHO, when you've finished your model, and that engine is in the engine bay, with a raised hood shading it from direct light--the slight difference in shades probably won't be all that easily noticed. Art

Something worth keeping in mind: Before DuPont & GM introduced acrylic lacquer, all lacquers were "nitrocellulose" which did not keep a shine very long at all, wearing away in the process, due as much to weather as any polishing. This was especially true with early metallics--those dulled out very quickly, even when well waxed. Your '41 Plymouth, as it stands in your pic, looks (to me) far more realistic than you might think--it's pretty danged nice! Art

Uh, IIRC (If I Recall Correctly), Testors light earth is a flat finish paint--entended primarily for military models--as such it would be a very fine "grainy" finish. Art

Our 2017 model car contest and swap meet is just a month away!

FWIW, I have the first issue kit, from 1964 "flat box" and the second run of the kit (PC-119, Copyrighted 1965) which came in a box the same length and width but half the height of a modern Revell model car kit box, and there was no Greyhound hood ornament in either of those, just the standard-equipment domed radiator cap. Of course, this kit was first done principally as a stock '34 Ford 3-window coupe with the option to do the Cabriolet (Bill's "Early Iron" street rod version). Ford offered, as a dealer accessory, a smaller version of the Greyhound racing dog used by Lincoln, but those cars came from the factory with just a plain chromed radiator cap. Both of these kits had stock wire wheels, and rubber (not PVC) tires, along with the stock hubcaps. Art

Well, I'm 72 for just two more days! Anyway, I used to decant as much spray paint as my paint storage jar would hold--and had to overcome the very same problem. However, anymore, I've come to decanting just about the amount of paint I'll use in my Paasche H--add just a bit of lacquer thinner to that, which I've found causes whatever propellant dissolved in the paint (enamel or lacquer) to out-gas very quickly. I figure that this is no more, no less likely to wind up costing me more in paint than simply decanting say, a full 1oz storage jar full. If I see the need for a larger amount of paint (say I know that I'm going to be giving the model another pass with that same color, I simply use my color jar, and once I've done the first coat, I close down the "Material Control" on the -H, then place a toothpick in the vent hole in the bottle cap. That will allow any propellant to escape slowly, so that when I have to shake that paint up again for remixing it, I don't get a lacquer or enamel "rattle can paint" Vesuvius eruption. That's worked for me for a good 50 years now. Art

Uh, don't forget that this one is a FORD Jeep (Ford Motor Company produced about half of the over 500,000 Jeeps during WW-II). The front crossmember I scratchbuilt for my project is the real "identifier" here Art

Don't your airbrush jars have a small "vent hole" in each cap? If so, make sure those are open before decanting and spraying. Art