whale392

Yeah Ron, but you were a LOT further along than I was that night (wait, I had just purchased two of these kits that night........still in the shrink-wrap! ). And you will still beat me done too! As a side note or progress update; the front wheel sleeves won't be ready until NEXT Friday. However, I have ordered 20 of them in the first batch. They will have the ability to turn an 18" wheel (some 17" and 19" if you turn down the original wheel lip) into 21" wheels. I am hoping I can stretch the 19" tires to fit them.....we'll see and I'll report back. If it works, I might just have some sleeves up for dibs.

Good to see you were able to salvage it Greg. I look forward to seeing more of your build.

Pegasus Hobbies 19" stepped sleeves with tires, 23" stepped sleeves with tires, and 23" 'Phat Daddys' wheels and tires; all from ScaleDreams (thanks again if you are a member here). Customer service was great and shipping was quick.

just took the kit tranny, cut it from the kit engine, and them cut the tranny from the AMT 39/40 Ford kit and mated them together. Whatever trans was supplied with the kit is what I am using (I will be the first to admit I do not know Buicks very well. Mid-60s Mopar B-Bodies and FOX Chassis Mustangs are my areas of consumed brainpower). I will have the front wheel sleeves by Friday morning, so they will be ready to test fit and have the front inner wheelhouses modified for them. I will also be adding inner fender detail as this kit has none. Stay tuned for more of "TEN PENNY NAIL" Oh yeah, color choice is Model Master Laquer Dark Cherry Pearl (GM color) with the hood center depression shot in Testors One Coat Laquer White Lightning. Interior will be two-toned White and Light Gray. Still deciding if I should leave the wheel centers Chrome of finish them in some other color.

As promised, some update pics. Now, I am converting this to run EDIS and GM LS1/2 coils, so I have been working on that set-up. Some preliminary pics of the Tone Wheel and the very beginnings of the Coils: , , Also got the heads semi-complete (waiting for the plug wires to be added) and the valve covers painted. Added the kit trans to the 39/40 Ford AMT Nailhead engine for a better looking Nailer. , I should have the front wheel sleeves here and on by the end of the week, and the heads/valve covers/coils/wires done by Friday. That's all I have for this episode of 'TEN PENNY NAIL'

We used to have vintage drag boat races in Columbus...don't know if they still do. They had some neat boats for sure....this build reminds me of them.

I know how you feel Don, I drive about an hour and 15 minutes myself (I am over in Dayton and the club meeting is on the North side of Columbus). Worth it to me though as I have met some really good people (some are even members here) and seen some REAL modeling works (not the piles I never complete). Steve, borrow away man. Ideas are fluid and meant to be used; if you can use it do it, The girlfriend is building the same kit and we are both shooting it in the same color (I borrowed loosely her color scheme, but with some tweaks). More to come hopefully tonight.

Thanks for the replies guys. I have the engine block in paint, and the tranny is painted, awaiting the block to dry. Heads are painted and being wired up as I type (I am doing an LS1/2 type coil set-up for this engine). Started making the headers for it, and am contemplating the induction set-up now. Most of the upper engine detail will be obscured by a cover anyway, so do I really need to go nuts with the detail? And to add to it, it will still have the metal axles........trying to 'keep it simple' here (laughs hysterically at that comment). Pics coming soon as I continue to hammer away at the 'TEN PENNY NAIL'

Beautiful build of a beautiful car. Nissan was selfish by keeping this one JDM.

As a member of the BSAC (Buckeye Scale Auto Club...in Columbus, Oh), we have a 'same kit' build that 'started' on the 5th of August (some started earlier, but I think it was officially started on the 5th as that is when the remainder of the paid for kit were brought to the meeting and some spares for us who didn't get in on the initial go). The kit we all agreed upon was the 1962 Buick Electra 225 reissued by AMT/Round2. Let me tell you, whoever thinks that the 60s are the 'Golden Era' of kits (maybe in subject matter, but not in detail/quality of casting) is slightly Rosey. This kit is a hotbed for casting flash, misaligned mold plates (leaving pretty good sized casting lines in the body), sink marks, ejector pin marks, and ill-fitting parts. Now, don't get me wrong, I do love the 60s kits; but I will confess to being spoiled by todays higher quality standards and overall detail improvements. Anyway, enough of my bagging on and critiquing the reissue. On to the build, or something like that. Now, I haven't done a lot picture-wise, but I have done quite a bit to the kit. First, I believe the squared-off C-pillars are sexy for Grandma and Grandpa but are less than flattering for this body style. In that vein of thought; I chopped the top from a spare 1960 Chevy Impala kit I had, narrowed it, cut most of the roof from the 62 Buick, added a slight forward-biased rake to the roof, and grafted the modified 60 Impala roof to the 62 Buick body. I am not completely happy with the look (should have used a 1962 Bubbletop Impala roof, but I didn't have one spare), but it makes the Big ol' girl flow better in my opinion. The C-Pillar area I added some lift to to give the roof the rake; before it was actually tail-raked (the roof was lower at the rear than at the front). I still have a boatload of filling, sanding, and re-making of the trim, but this will give an idea of what was done. I am also using Pegasus Hobbies M5 wheels in 19" size, but I am sticking the rears into their 23" stepped sleeves and having a set of 21" sleeves manufactured for the front (so that they too will have a more realistic lip). The nose of the car suffers from what I call 'anteater syndrome'; where the headlights and grill stick out too far from the terminating ends of the fenders/hood line. I cut the buckets back flush with the fender ends and hogged out the headlight bucket area (so thick with plastic that it could hide Jimmy Hoffas body) to get the headlights/grill to sit further back. I like the way the hood lip and front bumper profile now match and the grill/headlights sit back in from too far out. I still have to modify the radiator locator/bulkhead/screwholes to get the bumper to sit square with the body. next order of business is to get the front wheel arches to line up with the newly relocated rearward front bumper (this will clean up the 'too cavernous' look I believe the front wheelwell openings exude). I also shaved the 'ELECTRA 225' moldings and the chrome ribbed panel in front of the rear bumper on the lower quarters (makes them too 'busy' looking to me) in preparation for material removal to tuck the rear bumper tighter to the body. Taillights I am taking a second set and through cutting/pasting making the original housings about half again as tall, so that the taillights can actually be seen on this car. Anyway, enough talk from me; back to work (I have cut the tranny from this kit and grafted it to the Nailhead in the AMT 39/40 Ford kit for a better looking Nailhead engine. I will post more when it happens. Hope you liked my introduction to what I am calling my 'Ten Penny Nail' project.

When determining the needed size/thickness for any project, keep in mind that every .040" thickness in scale is roughly one inch in 1:1. That in itself will give you a good estimate as to 'how thick/what size will I need' when you go to get styrene sizes.

Foureyedpride is dedicated to the survival of the 4eye FOXes, but they do have a ton of tech on swapping in newer drivetrains/bigger/better brakes, and better overall drivability stuff. While they are all for preservation, most of the prolific members have modded cars.

1) That year could be either Gray or Red oxide....there is debate as Ford started a switchover in that year range. 2) Yes, just like Mopar, you will have primer with the edges oversprayed. 3) Not really sure..........best bet Semi-Gloss. 4) Either Semi Gloss or Gloss for the suspension bits. Also, Ford left some of their rear-end housings natural finish, which quickly became rust colored. 5) I use Testors Light Tan and then drybrush Sand over it for Tan/Saddle interiors.

Very well excecuted build. While I am not one for the Satin look, I do think the car lends itself to the finish. The hood just begs for a high-gloss jel-coat to contrast with the rest of the satin!

No problem; I am not good for much but I can offer friendly advice! I just happened to grow up as a Hemi/440+6 fed Mopar kid, so I knew beyond a shadow of a doubt that the chassis you showed WAS NOT a Mopar B-Body unit! The alterations are looking good and I look forward to watching this one evolve.

Since you are dealing with an 82 model, THE BEST site for your needs would be foureyedpride.com......period. They are a site dedicated to the early FOXes and have TONS of info. Other sites to help you out would be foxbodyforum.com, and corral.net (bring your armor for this one though as they are very opinionated and not too keen on the 4eye cars, but they do have some knowledgable members).

Proper chassis huh? Curious as to when Dodge put full-frame stuff under a unitbody car. My 65 looked nothing like this underneath. With that said; I am a fan of the Double Altered and Single Altered 1964-65 Dodges and Plymouths, as well as the 1963 2% cars.

Thanks for letting the girlfriend sit in Ron.......she is actually serious about building the 'same kit' 62 Buick (so serious in fact that she went and bought another kit for parts just in case she screws this one up. It was also nice to see some faces that I hadn't seen for a few meetings (even though Newport and I were discussing the Import thing most of the night).

Never too late to join.......runs until the end of the year.

Jason; truck came out looking good. Would you happen to be going to the T.A.M.S show this weekend (the show you elude to in your post)?

Interesting....a Chevy Chassis under a Dodge?

Just one question: do the wheels/tires actually stick out beyond the fender lips? Looks like the rears do. Besides that, the build looks good.........and I have only seem 3 or 4 of these in the 1:1 wild.

Hopefully he did it on accident Greg, or I would be smashing his wallet for the replacement kit $$$, then maybe his head for being a second-rate douche.

Moving the springs inboard (as long as you have them removed from the housing) will allow you to tuck the wheels nicely. So you are north of Tallahasee then?

So you are up in the Pace/Palifax/Milton/Pensacola area then? I was stationed at NATTC/NAS Pensacola for a year and absolutely LOVED the area. Chassis can be manipulated to give you the right look/stance/wheel spacing. I have used the inserts that they give you for the stub axles to space the wheels in/out/throughout the wheelwell (by cutting the female adapter to the depth I needed). Added bonus is that this method can also be used to simulate rear disc brakes (minus calipers of course..easy fix for that too).