whale392

Glass smooth paint and painstaking attention to detail. Looks like I will have to pick one of these up and build me a nice 'A' body. Combine this with the upcoming Dart GTS (Hemi) release and see what we can do!

Ceasar............this is one SEXY 'Cuda. Everything is just so dang smooth; I particularly love the ghosted billboard and the smoothed underpan.

This will be the benchmark I shoot for with current and future builds. Your build has forced me to quit making excuses and just do it. If at first I fail at a scratchbuilt part, I will build it again until it is right. Thank you sir for the ride, the insight, and the inspiration that this build has brought to me and countless others here. HooRah!

Sadly, the Chev' pik-em-up has the potential for a real nice finished ride (with a few tasteful removals and some finish work); but the Hearse may be beyond saving. As far as I am concerned, the Hearse having that done to it is along the same lines as the current 'Donk'-dumb phase of car builders........thanks for ruining good vehicles.

Both; there is art in real life and functionality. You can still find the beauty in a beater if you look hard enough. Now, I do tend to lean way more toward technical correctness (which is why I NEVER finish anything....I am too detail-critical) than 'art'. Maybe if I went the art route, I would finish one!

Really; where else can I clutter up bytes of valuable space with half-started and never finished builds, launch hairbrained ideas, pick others hairbrained (and sometimes even finished) ideas apart, and generally make a nuisance of myself all within the legal bounds of participation? I mean, c'mon.......if I can't do it in 1:1, I might as well not finish it in scale either! (and share the humiliation of my self-defeat with like-minded individuals)

I am with Romell......nice to see you over here. I have been following your (this) build over there and have taken and applied some of the techniques I learned from watching you and have applied them to my own builds.

I believe that there is some very good advice here, and some peoples' observations are dead-on and well spoken. We always learned that 'Respect is earned, not given'. As I do not fancy myself as a highly skilled builder, I usually will pass a subject by. If it is something I do know about or believe that I can help positively, I will. As stated, some people will never listen objectively or feign interest in your critisism and keep right on with their builds. That is a percieved respect thing for me. If I respect you as a builder and fellow man, I will respond in kind. I have learned that there are those here who have built themselves an emotional shell, and whenever someone threatens that (even with the best of intent) they immediately lash out as self-defense. I now just pass on by them and leave no comment. I may check in to see what they are doing/have done, but that is as far as I will take it.

Personal opinion here, but as long as you are at the 'smoothing', why not extend and blend the tailfin line all the way up into the front fender instead of where it terminates in front of the door-handle now? Maybe even slightly reduce the height of the tailfin to create some smoothness? Fenderskirts in, but smoothed to look like part of the body; headlight and taillight housings sharing the same slant angle (albiet reversed) and a hare more of a rake to the windshield and shallower side-glass profile.

Don't feel bad Jim, I got to go to a funeral for a friend (co-worker and prior Marine). Rest in Peace Brother. I did however pick up another 1992 Mustang GT Convertible lowrider for parts-scrounging/possible build.

Looking good. Sullivan offers a carb intake for these in 1:1, but I have yet to see a Tunnel-Rammed 4V DOHC Ford. With the way yours looks, I am suprised it really hasn't been done!

Very nice build, and it looks very sinister in Black.

Forget the goofy bottle and speakers....leave it smooth and roll it on the 5 star wheels. Some Dark Blue Metallic and Light Blue Metallic lower two-toning would really set it off.

Very nice! I remember watching that car run as a kid and I believe I still have the autographed poster of that car somewhere in my stash. 1985 U.S. Nationals is where I believe I saw Kenny run it (forgive me, I was 10 and my memory might be a slight bit hazy!).

So you didn't build it with a gaping hole in it and sitting at the bottom of the ocean? Fitment problems solved!

Good points and Ideas here. I will keep them in mind for a later project.

Good questions Bart. I for one am happy that it is being released because I can now have some A-bodies without having to resort to E-Bay. Also, the chassis can be used for a myraid assortment of updates to earlier MPC and AMT kits, along with some of the Revell earlier released A-bodies. That is why I AM excited about its' release.

As I said earlier; if you need any help or info, just ask. I'll be glad to help out if I can.

I can agree with your math Mark, but can you see the fun involved in building one up? So what if he doesn't get his money back out of it; if he doesn't care about that niether should we. Do you want me to tell you how much I have sitting in the Blue car as pictured? Yup, money wasted and time ill spent..............NOT. Just like model cars, real cars are an assemble hobby as well. Will you ever get the money you spent in supplies and labor time building your model if you sell one? NO. Same deal with the real car.

Sounds reasonable to me. I would mask off where the trim is to go first though; it will give the trim something flat to stick to while gluing it down.

Of the wheels shown, the white 5 stars look the best, followed by the 4 spokers.

Mark; your last post has me at a slight conumdrum. While FOXes may be going cheaper than dirt in Cali, the rest of the country that is affected by seasons and the ravages they bring to cars are experiencing a rise in FOX prices. Good examples of the FOX are getting harder to find in the Midwest/North/and some of the Southeast and prices are going up accordingly. I know Cali has them sitting by the droves in yards as they are 'just another old smogging car' to you all, but not so elsewhere. For $1,000.00; he didn't do too bad for a solid platform and a coupe to boot! Take my 91GT pictured for example.........270,000 miles on the ORIGINAL drivetrain and NO RUST. I picked it up cheap in Florida for $1,300.00 4 years ago. I brought it to Ohio (well, dad drove it up to me anyway) last May and was instantly offered $2,500.00 ON THE SPOT, no questions asked and cash in hand. I said no as I love the car, but you see what I mean?

Correct Mark. I myself would swap the car to the later 5lug stuff and use the correct CobraR wheel (if I were to use the CobraRs). I prefer a different style wheel myself, but opinions vary. ,

If you want to go 5.0/5spd, be sure to grab the pedal assembly/quadrant from a stick car as the auto assembly doesn't work with the stick. If you can get the early SROD 4speed bell housing, you can use a Tremec 3550 in the car with that bell. Then again, ignore me..........just some silly ramblings of a FOX guy. Dave, do I spy an FHP SSP (with the 83-86 Lear-Siegler Sport seats installed)? That pic looks like how I am building one of my resin coupes (CobraR wheels and all) to include the lightbar and proper decaling. Shall we call it a 'What if Johnny law was allowed to modify his pursuit car'?

Dave, Besides the Hemi having crossbolted #2,3,and 4 mains, I don't see too much difference between the 440 and the Hemi block.